Nut Rubbing Frame Vibration Question

[liketoride2]

I may have missed this in all the posts on this problem, but is there any possible way to visualize the nut to determine if it's rubbing without all the body part removal? Just enough to see if it's actually rubbing or not, possibly with a dentist type small mirror, etc.?

I'm guessing there isn't but wanted to ask since it's such a daunting task just to get to the net.

Thanks.

Mike

 

[Jornie1]

I don't think so..

Mike,
I took these pictures on my RT while in the process of filing a relief in the frame so the bolt wouldn't touch and transfer vibration. You're going to have to take some plastic off the left side to get a look at the bolt. A mechanics mirror will be a great help. If you are going to file a relief in the frame, you will have to remove the entire front end along with lots of plastic on the left side and move the oil tank out of the way...I've done this job on both mine and my wife's RT's.... If you find the nut touching the frame, this "Little" job will work wonders in relieving your vibration. Len

I may have missed this in all the posts on this problem, but is there any possible way to visualize the nut to determine if it's rubbing without all the body part removal? Just enough to see if it's actually rubbing or not, possibly with a dentist type small mirror, etc.?

I'm guessing there isn't but wanted to ask since it's such a daunting task just to get to the net.

Thanks.

Mike

 

[2NFrnt]

Mike,
If you find the nut touching the frame, this "Little" job will work wonders in relieving your vibration. Len

:agree::agree:

 

[SteveO]

I did this fix last weekend, been putting it off!

I was having the aluminum side panels piowder coated so killed two birds..

This is a lot of work and a lot of bits.

Unbolt coils and oil tank top mount and pull the tank back a couple of inches

Once the frunk is off (6 bolts and several electrical connectors, the latch cable outer can be pulled out of the slot next to the latch which gives enough room to disconnect) remove the front and rear bolts on the longditudinal stay bar and then with the body bolts removed you can take the body panel in front of the oil cooler out with the longditudinal stay. Do not undo the hiem joints on the londitudinal stay bar or you will need to readjust.

I could not see evidence of rubbing on the nut with a dentist mirror, but could see a rust film on the frame. Note it is almost impossible to even see the cross stay without a major strip down.

As per previous reply you have to loosen the engine mount nuts to enable the cross bar to be undone. You can jack the engine or as I did lever the hiem joint up enough to get a wrench on the nut.

I dremelled the frame and painted. Refit the cross stay at the top of its slot. I took about 1/8" deep arc off the frame flange at the deepest point beneath the nut. (I was not going to do this twice!!!!!!)

Spend rest of day playing with the tupperware!

Long job, but worth it NO MORE vibration.

This is the only"fault" I have had with the Spyder.

Showed my dealer previous threads from this site but would not fix it as they said grinding the frame could not be right, they did adjust the stays which reduced the vibration, but did not remove it totally.

hope this helps.

SteveO

 

[Rando]

Is this a 2011 issue or just 2010?

 

[2NFrnt]

Is this a 2011 issue or just 2010?

2010 and it seems only a limited no. of them, have heard no-one complain of this with the 2011.

 

[Phil]

I mentioned this today to Carlo (BRP) who is here at Spyderfest. It's his feeling that dealers should do this as a warranty item (assuming the bike is in the warranty period). Anyone who feels uneasy about doing this (like me), have your dealer contact their tech rep at BRP. Carlo feels that should be all that is needed.
btw-= he is a REALLY nice guy.
BBTTWW- he LOOKS like Steven Spielberg!!

 

[clueless]

+1 on Carlo being a nice guy! all the 3 BRP guys here are in HELP the customer mode and are working hard to keep us all Happy here in Cuba, MO.

glad they are here !!! :2thumbs:

 

[liketoride2]

Thanks to all of you for your advice on this problem. I will attempt to get a look at the nut this weekend (hopefully with minimal disassembly and a mirror) and contact my dealer if I see evidence of rubbing.

Mike

 

[tatt2r]

thought i might chime in on this thread i don't own an RT and the pics are good but could you just take bolt out and turn it around ?
like i said really cant see in pic if this is possible ...
just my 2 cents at least then you could grind bolt head instead of bike

 

[liketoride2]

A followup on this issue. After taking off most of the left side bodywork I was able to see the nut and it is probably rubbing. It's difficult to determine with certainty because I can't see the side of the nut next to the frame, but it is certainly very close and likely touching.

I discussed this with my dealer, who called his tech rep as suggested earlier in this thread, and the fix will be covered under the BRP warranty. Hopefully that annoying vibration between 4800 abd 5500 RPM will soon be gone!

Thanks for all the help. If not for this forum I would have assumed the vibration was normal and not pursued a fix for it.

Mike

 

[sinkhole]

thought i might chime in on this thread i don't own an RT and the pics are good but could you just take bolt out and turn it around ?
like i said really cant see in pic if this is possible ...
just my 2 cents at least then you could grind bolt head instead of bike

As you can see in this pic, the bolt could not be inserted from the front. There is very limited room between the bracket and the engine, and not enough for the nut and remaining bolt that protrudes. Evidently, the only reason for a slot (which really creates the problem in the first place) is so that the bolt can be inserted from the rear.

 

[Peacemaker7]

Just got my spyder back from the 6,000 mile service. I let them know about the extreme vibration that starts at about 4250 RPM and continues as you apply throttle.
They found out that it was the dreaded nut and was/is/has been hammering the frame bad. They ground the frame down, made some room for the nut, what a difference :thumbup:

 

[liketoride2]

A final followup to my original post on this thread. The dealer did find that the nut was rubbing the frame, as has been widely reported, and ground the recess in the frame per BRPs instructions, all covered by warranty. As everyone else has reported, the vibration between about 4600 and 5500 RPM is now gone. How ironic that a anti-vibration strut was causing vibration! Thanks once again for all the information on this issue in this forum.

While the machine was at the dealers I also complained that the rear shock (stock, unlike my fronts) had gotten very soft at only 5300 miles causing wallowing and pogoing. In addition, the air slowly leaked out, losing most pressure in about a week. The dealer arranged for the shock to be replaced under warranty and it's on the way.

It's good to see that BRP does honor their warranties without a hassle being required, and least in my case.

Thanks again for all the great info posted on Spyderlovers.com.

Mike

 

[IWN2RYD]

Man... I have no idea how I missed this thread pps:pps:

We just had this done as well. Pleased to see this is now well excepted by BRP to get it fixed. Our dealer did a beautiful job.. Even re-sealed it and painted the area they fixed :spyder2::doorag:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29096

 

[billythekidd]

I have a 2011 RTS and it does this thing described between 5500 and 6000. If I am riding at about 75 and accel to 80 or so, I get the vibration really bad in the foot pegs.



Willy

 

[Vyperyder]

looking at the photo in post #12, why didn't they just reshape/trim the bracket holding the rubber block so that the "lip" isn't there???
No more bolt contact ..Problem solved!!! :dontknow:

It's a bit late when the problem in question is buried deep in the bowels of the machine, can't be reached properly and can only be partially fixed
cheers
Pete

 

[sinkhole]

As I mentioned in a similar post, part of the problem is that the bolt is inserted in a slot, not a hole. The slot is needed so that the bolt can be inserted or removed because of clearance issues. If the bolt were held toward the top of the slot when tightened, and the bracket relieved slightly, there would not be any interference.

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

DID YOU ALL KNOW?

JUST A HEADS UP. IF YOUR MACHINE IS UNDER WARRANTY BRP WILL PAY FOR THIS MODIFICATION OF THE FRAME. JUST NEED TO HAVE YOUR DEALER CALL AND GET AN AUTHO ONCE THEY IDENTIFY ITS TOUCHING THE FRAME. WE CUT THIS SECTION OUT AND THEN PAINT THE FRAME SO IT LOOKS FACTORY.

 

[dave01]

I made it all the way thru 19 posts but now I cant resist. Would"nt it just be easier to sit back in the seat a little so you arent so close to the frame? :dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: