• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

NOT THE NANNY UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

NVERLAST1

New member
was riding down highway doing 70 hit a bump in rd jarred bike pretty hard and now in limp mode, what can I do to get out beside take to dealer?
 
Read the code.
1. Put in the key and turn it on.
2. Press mode button until you see "hours" displayed.
3. Press and hold both buttons on both handle bars
4. Toggle the momentary bright light button five times rapidly (must be done within two seconds).

If you fumble, release the buttons and try again.

You should get a list of error codes that you can scroll through. Write them down and then post them here.

David
 
Since you hit a big bump and then got the limps I would check fuses and relays to see if they poped out. Give them all a big push anyway. Turn bike off walk away and take a chill. Come back and restart it should have cleared if it ws only a loose connection.
 
was riding down highway doing 70 hit a bump in rd jarred bike pretty hard and now in limp mode, what can I do to get out beside take to dealer?

Been there and I removed main relay one and main relay two , put them back in and limp mode went away.( Try relay one because I think just that one will do the trick) Carefull when you put them back in because they will fit in other holes below but they won't work !! Don't ask how I know that. Happened three times in two days and turns out my rear shock absorber was not working properly ,changed it and all is fine now (2009 GS/RS SE5)
 
you folks need to write another manual as to how to keep the Spyder up and and running... maybe if I had the time I would put all of your experiences together to download it for us noobs
 
Do's & Dont's for New Spyder Owners: Updated July 7th, 2012
There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later.



  1. READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!! The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised at what you and your dealer do not know.
  2. Learn as much as possible about your Spyder. You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned. Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.
  3. Buy only from a dealer that has a good reputation. Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly. Your odds of having a miserable experience increases if you don't.
  4. Do not "ride the brake", or even touch the brake when riding. Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it. The "system" will begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake -- period. It will cause you problems.
  5. Learn to shift and cruise at higher RPM's. Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's.
    • Problems are likely to arise later if you do not.
    • For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit 28 MPH!
    • The manual may confuse some. The RTS-SE5's manual on pages 71 and 76 mention 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's. This is in reference to someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- NOT the normal operating range.
    • Shifting at low RPM's will bog-down your engine and drivetrain causing undue stress and possible damage later-on. The engine will not run smooth or have as much torque (power) either.
    • Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use them!
      • Cruising around town -- you might never leave 3rd gear -- all day! It is OK to do that!
      • Shift suggestions for a RTS-SE5:
        • 1st to 2nd: shift when your speed is no less than 22 MPH, and no more than 28 MPH
        • 2nd to 3rd: shift when the RPM's are near or at 5,000 (I prefer around 5,100 range to shift.)
        • 3rd to 4th and to 5th: again, shift only when the RPM's are at or near 5,000. (Again, I shift at around 5,100 RPM's.)

    • You do NOT need to roll-off the throttle when shifting with the SE5 system (read the manual).
      • When shifting at the above RPM points; you'll see that your transmission will slip into gear as "smooth as silk".

    • 4th gear can be maintained at the 63 -- 65 MPH range all day if that is your cruising-speed. 4th gear at 63 MPH will have the RPM's in the low to mid 5,000 RPM range -- which is perfect. The Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range.
    • The dreaded "belt-vibration" is likely to disappear when you finally get used to the above suggestions.
    • Shifting to 5th gear should be only when you will be remaining constant above 65 MPH and on level terrain.
    • Downshift on inclines... both up or down; especially when in 5th gear.
    • Do not let your Spyder "lug" its way through uphill climbs. You are killing your Spyder when doing that. You should be treated so poorly for doing so! :rolleyes:
    • (Those who have ridden V-Twins motorcycles -- you guys are too used to your engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's. That is a killer for the Spyder. The Rotax engine is NOT your old V-Twin. It works best at or above 5,000 RPM's; so get used to it, or pay the price later.)

  6. Remove the key from the ignition (and the spare from the trunk) and walk away at least 15 feet for several minutes to allow the computer to reset itself if you have minor "booting" problems when starting.
  7. For those with the SE5; be sure to downshift when stopping -- especially fast stops, as the transmission may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "can't get it into first-gear syndrome".
  8. Tire pressure makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles. Tire pressure depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal pressure. Check it often.
  9. Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.
  10. Pay attention to how your Spyder is running. If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right... check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or not doing any of the above. If not, then get it checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip.
  11. Get a battery tender and hook it up to your battery in between riding it. "Tenders" condition the battery which helps make a battery last longer and remain charged. (Short-rides do not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
  12. Do not ride on gravel roads. Despite the fact you are on three-wheels... you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and then check your belt right after doing so if you have to.
  13. Fluid levels (i.e., brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct. Check them often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not. (Brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begins to wear. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now low and the Spyder will throw a code for it... while you scratch your head wondering why. Simply top-off the fluid.)
  14. Be sure to relax your grip on the handlebars. People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement). JUST RELAX your grip, and you'll soon see that the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles.
  15. Be sure to have fun and ride often... probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".


That is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on.

If anyone disagrees or can add to the list... please do.:thumbup:​

Last edited by Illinois Boy; 07-08-2012 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Adding suggestions as they come-in.​
 
Hey, just a suggestion for ya

was riding down highway doing 70 hit a bump in rd jarred bike pretty hard and now in limp mode, what can I do to get out beside take to dealer?

You may want to list your model and year of Spyder on your Signiture line, along with any mods that you've done to it. That way, when you ask future questions, we have a little more needed info to help you. I'm guessing you have an RS/GS, right?

The reason I ask, is that the RTs have a different routine for pulling up codes, so what would work on the RS/GS wouldn't work on the RTs.

And the post about checking your fuses & relays is right on:thumbup: as that would be my bet as to why you went limp:roflblack: you knocked something loose :rolleyes:
 
You may want to list your model and year of Spyder on your Signiture line, along with any mods that you've done to it. That way, when you ask future questions, we have a little more needed info to help you. I'm guessing you have an RS/GS, right?

:agree: having this info up front helps a lot! :thumbup:
 
Back
Top