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Not a good start.

fotoguy

New member
Hi all,

Just picked up my 2011 RSS this morning and have loved it until now. I had stopped to grab a quick bite and upon my return, the bike would not start. The display keeps saying parking break. I've engaged and disengaged it a few times but with no luck. I'm currently waiting on a tow truck to take her home. Anyone else have issues with the parking break not engaging?
 
If you have an SE, and you shut it off in gear, you need to press on the brake to start the Spyder. Also, make sure the kill switch on the right grip is enabled.
 
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Hey thanks for that, the dealer didnt mention the brake deal if left in gear nor did I read through the manual as closely as I should have! Sadly it still wont start. Any other tricks or things i may have missed?
 
Dont assume anything with me!! haha, but yea I did. Put the key in and turn it, allow the dials to rotate and come down. at this point I see the oil light on and park brake message is lit. I press the M button if it asks me to. I switched the red switch and press the brake. Then click the start button and nothing. Well I do hear if I put my head down to the center of the bike a short humming like sound comes on for like 3-5 seconds.

I will say the 70 miles Ive put on it soo far have been great!
 
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I feel for you coz the 2011 RSS is just a great bike, what a kick in the nuts hopefully its your first and last hiccup,good luck with the problem.Please Keep us posted.
 
sounds like loose battery wire so many times this happens,when will the dealers tighten those cables and some times dont put a full charge on the batt.hope this is all that it is.:yikes:
 
The connections are under the seat, yes? And what's the best way to check the voltage or put a charge on the battery?
 
The connections are under the seat, yes? And what's the best way to check the voltage or put a charge on the battery?
No, the connections are not under the seat! Those are just the jump start connections. You have to remove the bodywork to check the actual battery connections. If you loosen the negative jumper connection, you are in for big trouble. nojoke
 
No, the connections are not under the seat! Those are just the jump start connections. You have to remove the bodywork to check the actual battery connections. If you loosen the negative jumper connection, you are in for big trouble. nojoke

Okay I don't want to hijack this thread, but why would I be in big trouble if I loosen the negative jumper connection. Also, does this apply if I remove the battery cable when removing the battery?
 
Okay I don't want to hijack this thread, but why would I be in big trouble if I loosen the negative jumper connection. Also, does this apply if I remove the battery cable when removing the battery?
The negative jumper connection is held on by an almost unreachable nut. If you loosen it, you end up with a bad frame ground. Tightening it entails not only removing the body panels, but making/bending a wrench to fit, holding your mouth just right, and several appropriate swear words.
 
The negative jumper connection is held on by an almost unreachable nut. If you loosen it, you end up with a bad frame ground. Tightening it entails not only removing the body panels, but making/bending a wrench to fit, holding your mouth just right, and several appropriate swear words.

:agree: I remember well when i loosen the neg connection, My first thought after that was that the guy who designed this,
Never worked with any thing other than a keyboard. :(
 
Ok, thanks for the heads up on that neg one. Is there any thing else I shouldnt do when taking the body off? And any guides on doing what I need to do? Didnt see any on the DIY section.

Also how do you all charge the battery? Was told by a co worker to hook jumper cables to it from my car battery and just let it sit. Something about the two batteries would balance out.

One other thing I left out of the orig post was that when I try and start the bike, I hear a 3-5 sec faint humming sound.

Thanks again for the help!
 
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This MIGHT help

I was on a ride about a month ago and my parking brake would not shut off either although would still start. The actual pedal would not come up all the way to shut off the light and display. My handy dandy mechanic buddy that I ride with found that up underneath the body towards the front of the pedal there is a little metal piece that ratchets the brake and the pedal engaged beyond that since the cable was to loose and would not allow the brake to retract all the way. Was a very easy fix. Just stuck his finger under it and allowed the pedal to come back up and it shut off the display and light.
 
Ok,

Also how do you all charge the battery? Was told by a co worker to hook jumper cables to it from my car battery and just let it sit. Something about the two batteries would balance out.

Get a battery tender, As far as your co worker, Get a restraining order to keep him at least 100 feet from your Spyder at all times.:lecturef_smilie:
 
I'm getting power to the display, wouldn't this indicate that the leads are connected and the battery has juice?


Update, got to the battery and I could tighten them some but still nothing.
 
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I'm getting power to the display, wouldn't this indicate that the leads are connected and the battery has juice?


Update, got to the battery and I could tighten them some but still nothing.

At this point i would think your battery is too weak to start, Or you have a bad battery and needs to be replaced [under warranty].
I have a feeling by reading other post about battery problems, BRP has gotten a batch of bad batteries lately.:dontknow:
 
So if that's the case, could I jump it off with either a car battery or one of those jump boxes and if it starts off that then I would know.
 
Boost it like you would your car, or put it on a charger ,those terminals are there for that purpose. If it doesn't start after this, dont put the boots it.
 
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