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No Start, just clicks!

R

rarerockmusic

New member
Ok, another problem, never ending headache this machine, battery's fine, close to 13 volts, jump start and i get the same, so am i looking at a new starter? or a gallon of gas and a match, nothing but troubles.........tired of searching forums, way to many post that don't match my searches..........and please real help, no BS not in the mood for jokes........
 
Not sure how much effort it is to remove the starter, but if/when you do you can most likely test it by hooking it up directly to the battery to see if it turns.

Then you'll narrow it down further to either a starter issue, relay, or loose wire somewhere.


Sorry man; that's all I got. Other's will add in I'm sure so hang in there.
 
Yea have it all apart AGAIN....wires all tight.......been cranking slower and slower, I'm guessing starter......just tired of working on it, seems i fix one thing something else goes, i know others have had fun and good luck with the Spyder, but i think this is my first and last! Just gets to me that $20,000+ and it's been more fixing than riding.....
 
One of the first things I do with a new bike is put dielectric grease on every connection I can find. Corrosion is the #1 cause of electrical failure in a bike, and after all the bikes I have had, I believe in the 3oz of prevention.

While you don't say what year your RT is, nor how many miles, I would think a starter would be a warranty issue - I have not heard of one of those going TU.. The battery, however, can go quickly, if it has not been kept on a trickle charger, like the "Battery Tender" - and a bad cell might show the proper voltage, but not have the cranking amps you need. JMHO
 
Battery tender i use all the time, have one for all my bikes, Spyder is a 2010 and just under 9000 miles, and with others issues it's been starting ok, battery has a little less than 13 volts, bike has been garage kept, i never saw the need or wanted to tear into the bike that far to take apart every connector, being that there basically moisture resistant to an extent, i was hoping someone had a similar problem and could help short cut my efforts.
 
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Ok, lets cut through this more easily, i work on bikes, i've owned over 30 in my lifetime, and worked on and or rebuilt most well before the days of fuel injection and everything being computer controlled. I have owned bikes with well over 30,000 miles and never had the problems this machine has given me, i know what to check and how to check it....this machine is controlled by BUDD, it's out of warranty (not that they fixed anything during warranty, it was new to them too) I know i own a LEMON, i've posted this before, i'm stuck with it, my fatal purchase.........so to get off my rant cause this machine has me pissed.....I'll ask again, has anyone had a similar issue with a fully charged battery, and a jump starter, and still just a click from the solenoid, i have the shop manual but again BUDD this then BUDD that, i don't have the means to take it to the shop (where it lived for 5 months). I'll apologize, but i need people to understand I'm losing patience with this bike and will mention again, i need someone that has had this situation and can short cut to the cause, i can't be the only person that's had this issue, if so then a darker yellow I'll paint the damn thing (the lemon) and hope it get's stolen........again i apologize.....and thanks for any help.
 
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I had a 2010 RT SM5 and I would guess that I had under 10,000 miles on it and the starter froze up. Spyder wouldn't start it just clicked. This was in 2010 so it was under warranty and they replaced the starter. Then at 59,000 miles on that Spyder it wouldn't start, we thought it was the battery but turned out to be the stator.
 
SpyderAnn01 said:
I had a 2010 RT SM5 and I would guess that I had under 10,000 miles on it and the starter froze up. Spyder wouldn't start it just clicked. This was in 2010 so it was under warranty and they replaced the starter. Then at 59,000 miles on that Spyder it wouldn't start, we thought it was the battery but turned out to be the stator.
Click to expand...
Thank you, i will check the starter.
 
akspyderman said:
The more information that you can give the readers, minus a bit of the attitude, and you will probably find a lot more willing to help. I am not the mechanical one, so I cannot be of help with your current issue.
Click to expand...

I apologized for my so called attituded from the start, and you do not understand the issues this bike has given me. And i think i supplied enough information concerning the circuit involved, and since your not mechanical, and never had these issues then why remark to my post.............
 
akspyderman said:
The more information that you can give the readers, minus a bit of the attitude, and you will probably find a lot more willing to help. I am not the mechanical one, so I cannot be of help with your current issue.
Click to expand...
give the guy a break he has gone through a lot he is losing his mind at this point:banghead:
 
SpyderAnn01 said:
I had a 2010 RT SM5 and I would guess that I had under 10,000 miles on it and the starter froze up. Spyder wouldn't start it just clicked. This was in 2010 so it was under warranty and they replaced the starter. Then at 59,000 miles on that Spyder it wouldn't start, we thought it was the battery but turned out to be the stator.
Click to expand...

rarerockmusic said:
Thank you, i will check the starter.
Click to expand...

To give you a more detailed description it welded itself frozen, there was no fix other than replacement.
 
Let's see..!!

other causes mentioned along the way were ignition switches and kill switches. It is said you need 12.7 volts to crank it but if you jumped it one assumes those volts were there. Trick would be to power the starter directly and see if it turns over. The other is the ground straps. These need good contact to the frame but I'm sure you checked those. If it was slowly cranking slower and slower it has to be the battery or starter..we are not doubting you but the tolerances are small teaspoon of brake fluid and a brake failure. Three volts short and clicking from the selonoid...would like to know what you find so we can help...:thumbup:
 
The BUDS system has nothing to do with the starter motor itself as it's just an electric motor and subject to fail. It's not real easy to get to it but if the solenoid "clicks" and it's getting battery voltage through it then I'd go after the starter.
 
I have a 2010 RT-S SE5. I had similar issues to yours ,the dealer found bad battery cell and the battery was replaced. when the battery was replaced there was corrosion on the battery terminals.
I also have recently found the spyder will go into DPS limp mode while driving, after I stop and push all the fuses and solenoids back into place, the issue goes away.
I hope this helps. All my electrical issues seem to have started when the spyder info center was replaced because of non-compatability ,when I got the dealer to install the BRP CB/Comm system. My next spyder will not have the BRP wired com system.
 
Yes i am losing my mind with this bike, and yes i should not lose it on here but it's never ending with this thing. And it s a pain to get to the starter, as i seen stated, got it off this morning after stepping back from it yesterday, one of the field magnets broke free inside the starter case locking the starter up. may be fixable, going to try.
 
Sorry to hear about your problems. Please contact your dealer he may be able to help you with the starter being under warranty. about a month ago clutch pack came apart and was fixed under my BEST Warranty.
 
rarerockmusic said:
Yes i am losing my mind with this bike, and yes i should not lose it on here but it's never ending with this thing. And it s a pain to get to the starter, as i seen stated, got it off this morning after stepping back from it yesterday, one of the field magnets broke free inside the starter case locking the starter up. may be fixable, going to try.
Click to expand...

If the magnet came loose they can be glued back. I have seen the a few times on the Evinrude motors. Moisture causes this, rust under the magnet.
 
"losing your mind"..:shocked:
If you come across mine during your search; please let me know where you saw it... :D

Sorry for the ill-timed humor. It seems as if you might have needed a little bit of it!
 
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