no more evo swaybar

[spyder stryder]

Ok,back to the springs. If & when you order a set of shocks & springs for your bike tell the supplier
that you want a matched rated springs & settle for no less. What i mean by this is say you have a
set of factory springs on the bike & the guy tells you that you need a pair of 275# springs or what ever.
He should have a spring rater & check the springs so he can match them up on the rate. The spring
can be stamped 275 & rate at 260 with the other rated at 285 if so you just shot your whole deal.
I have seen quite a bit of off rated springs from every spring supplier out there. Just make sure you
get what you need on rates & shock valving. On these anti roll bars bigger the bar the stiffer it is
with the same length & arm length. With limited space where the bar mounts if you can't mount a
bigger bar then take a look at mounting it from the back side. You would have to fab up some chassis
brackets so you can bolt it on then use the stock mounts for the ends to mount back. Don't panic
it works the same no problem there if you have room at the back side. Guess i could take a look myself.
Also if you find a longer bar with the rateing you need you can mount it as long as the tire dosn't hit
it as the wheel is turned. The closer to the wheel the ends mount the better control it will have on roll.

 

[coz]

good info

thats alot of good information spyder stryder, thanks for the education. it sounds like you're in the business.:thumbup: is the swaybar solid or a tube? i'll put it up on ramps tomorrow and take a real good look at it.

 

[MMcc]

Evo swaybar

spyder stryder ; Thanks for the good explanation on the front end geometry. I will reinstall the evo on my 2011 RT and play with the spring settings and also the tire pressure. I was surprised at the difference the bar made on the 2010 RT. I'll try to match the settings for this test. I was told that the front shocks are different between the 2010 and 2011. Not sure if that is true. The numbers on the shocks seem to be the same but the spring is definitely different. If I find an improvement I probably will remove the bar from the 4 sale forum.

 

[pro10is]

spyder stryder, You know your stuff, nice write ups and great info. Now that the Evo sway bar is history there is currently no plug and play option to change the OEM sway bar. Pity. We still have the option to change the shocks with offerings from Elka, Fox, Progressive and others though. You said when we order a set of shocks to "Just make sure you get what you need on rates & shock valving". I understand that this will be based upon vehicle weight, rider and passenger weight, and riding style, but given that we know this, how do we specify the spring rate and shock valving we need? Could you please expand on this a bit?

Also what is your opinion of the stock shocks vs performance shocks? It's a large investment for a set of performance shocks. Can we expect to see a significant improvement in suspension performance? If so which type of performance shock should we be looking for given those that are currently available? Elka alone has numerous options. Do we need the more expensive offerings or will the lower priced alternatives do?

Sorry for all the questions but your unbiased expertise in this area is very valuable and your opinions would be much appreciated. Answer only if you want. Thank you.

 

[dannymax]

Outstanding information!

This is some great information guys....thanks! Coz sent me a PM last night that is nearly word for word what Scotty said....did you guys collaborate? :roflblack:

Seriously, it seems obvious that tire pressure and shock settings need to be increased and I have the perfect corner to gauge results on....there is a long uphill climb with a 25 mph downhill right hander at the top, it unloads the suspension and reloads in the same corner....if it's going to under or oversteer it will do so in this corner.

I realize these things don't handle like an FJR but I should be able to hold a fairly good line without constant correction, I would think. And, I'm not talking about hi-speed road scorching stuff either, maybe 40 mph or so in this particular corner.

Now, if the glacier ever receeds, I'll be out there trying what you fine folks have shared with me! Thanks!! :bowdown:

 

[coz]

glad to help

i don't know alot, but i'm glad to share what i do know, as it was shared with me when i was a new guy.i find this front suspension discussion very interesting:thumbup:

 

[SPYD1]

thats alot of good information spyder stryder, thanks for the education. it sounds like you're in the business.:thumbup: is the swaybar solid or a tube? i'll put it up on ramps tomorrow and take a real good look at it.

Solid

 

[NancysToy]

spyder stryder ; Thanks for the good explanation on the front end geometry. I will reinstall the evo on my 2011 RT and play with the spring settings and also the tire pressure. I was surprised at the difference the bar made on the 2010 RT. I'll try to match the settings for this test. I was told that the front shocks are different between the 2010 and 2011. Not sure if that is true. The numbers on the shocks seem to be the same but the spring is definitely different. If I find an improvement I probably will remove the bar from the 4 sale forum.

The 2010 and 2011 RT shocks are different, but the springs are the same. BRP increased the damping in the shocks for 2011, and beefed up the spring adjusters.

 

[NancysToy]

This is some great information guys....thanks! Coz sent me a PM last night that is nearly word for word what Scotty said....did you guys collaborate? :roflblack:

Seriously, it seems obvious that tire pressure and shock settings need to be increased and I have the perfect corner to gauge results on....there is a long uphill climb with a 25 mph downhill right hander at the top, it unloads the suspension and reloads in the same corner....if it's going to under or oversteer it will do so in this corner.

I realize these things don't handle like an FJR but I should be able to hold a fairly good line without constant correction, I would think. And, I'm not talking about hi-speed road scorching stuff either, maybe 40 mph or so in this particular corner.

Now, if the glacier ever receeds, I'll be out there trying what you fine folks have shared with me! Thanks!! :bowdown:

If your adjustments are not sufficient to deal with the conditions you want to overcome, you may still need to go with some aftermarket tweaks. Factory suspensions are a bit of a compromise, made for the comfort and cornering style the average rider needs or wants. There are limits to how far adjustments alone will go to improve performance. In the end, the front end design will also prove to be a limiting factor. You can change the components and spring/shock ratings and performance, but it isn't as easy to change the geometry.

 

[coz]

thanks

i would like to thank scotty, aka nancy's toy for his never ending effort to educate us knuckleheads on a daily basis. scotty your the best.:thumbup:

 

[dannymax]

If your adjustments are not sufficient to deal with the conditions you want to overcome, you may still need to go with some aftermarket tweaks. Factory suspensions are a bit of a compromise, made for the comfort and cornering style the average rider needs or wants. There are limits to how far adjustments alone will go to improve performance. In the end, the front end design will also prove to be a limiting factor. You can change the components and spring/shock ratings and performance, but it isn't as easy to change the geometry.

It may turn out that some a/m stuff is needed but I'm thinking the air pressure, shock settings will make a big difference and the EVO sway bar hopefully will be the 'iceing'. Thanks for all the advice & info, it's much appreciated. :bowdown:

 

[Cole369]

Where's EVO aka Evoluzione...kinda like a where's ELMO. I did read somewhere where he is going through a divorce and has to shut down unitl that is resolved. Here is the thread (Thread is, EVO Swaybar - http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?35727-EVO-swaybar) Hey he has made some great products for Can Am Spyders and that talent will be hard to silience. I believe he will be back in bussiness once his personal affairs are resolved. Been there done that, got the jacket!!

Look I love the EVO swaybar, and immediatley saw the difference in my Spyders handling. When I would take my daily commute to work I would enter a high banked entrance ramp in Brandon Florida to I-75 South that had a hard half cirlce that I could enter around 35-40 mph and still feel safe before the nanny kicked in (for those who would like to google to see this try 27.943 Latitude \ -82.330 Longitude). When I installed the EVO sway bar, entering that same ramp I could enter it at 40-45 mph and maintain a steady bike and body control througout the turn with no nanny. I know these are not Ninja motorcycle speeds, but for Spyder owner's out there we know that this is pretty damn good entrance speed and still have control. This sway bar gave me another level of confidence going into corners and high speed hard manuevers in traffic. If you have ever ridden in Tampa traffic you would know you have to have skills. Next month I will be putting on the Elka Stage 1 Shocks up front along with their new adjustable Stage 1+ HYDP Hydraulic ride height setting shock in the rear. I'm pretty sure this combination in my suspension is going to make even more of an improvement in handling.

There are some delears that still have the EVO Sway bar in stock, and they will become scarce. Now I know ExtremeKempy.com ( http://www.extremekempy.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=101) still has some of the EVO swaybars in stock..call him if you need to, really cool guy. Use discount code "King" at ExtremeKempy" and get 10% off your sway bar purchase (if that does not work use "Moo" for 5%) and free shipping. CustomDynamics.com (http://www.customdynamics.com/can_am_spyder_accessories.htm) still has them in Red and Black. Use discount code "rswarrior" to get a 5% discount on your purchase at Custom Dynamics and free shipping. Blackwidow.com (http://blackwidowaccessories.com/index.php) may still have some, but you need to call them before ordering.

Lastly I can say buying the red one for me just looks cool. Kinda like seeing that big red sway bar underneath a 69 GTO. Funny though people seem to notice it and ask what it is, even though a small amount sticks out the sides. It looks like a performance part when paired with the Orange Alloy and Matte Black color on my Cam Am. When I add the Red and Black Elka's, its gonna be looking good.:yes: I would say besides my Juice Box Pro and Two Brothers Carbon Fiber Pipes, the EVO Swaybar comes in a hard third as the best improvement I have done for performance. Sadly they will be selling out fast since your thread has highlighted their scarcity. Here's a piece of advice. When you can feel the difference... it means investment well done. So if you have the chance, funds, and opportunity to buy one...don't think twice...by then they will all be gone.:banghead:

Good Luck finding EVO,

Cole

 

[wngrr]

now that i have your attention,,,, what i was thinking of was some type of bracket or plate that could bolt on in the 90 ish degree areas of the swaybar that would reduce the flex. any thoughts, theories, or ideas ?opcorn:

Coz, considering the original question, the answer to your question is yes. If you consider all of the comments so far the question becomes how you change the rate of the bar without making all of the other components unhappy. There is only one way, you change the length of the lever. Some sway bars are actually made to be adjustable by putting multiple mounting holes in the end or by using a clamp that can be moved up and down the end of the bar. If you change the length of the lever, you change the rate. Typically most manufacturers of mass produced sway bars settle on a bar diameter and heat treat and call it good. You could modify the stock set up and change the rate of the bar, but you shouldn't. Getting it right would be a pain in the a$$. It's really not worth the trouble when you can purchase a new bar with the proper rate for less. Those that have said bars are not hard to make are right on target. Getting the correct rate in the bar so all of the children play happily is the hard part. I suspect the problem is already being solved as this discussion evolves.

 

[coz]

thanks for the input

i understand completely what you're saying, and the amount of work it would take to mod the bar would not be worth it. looking at it today, the stock swaybar looks kind of thin and wimpy anyhow:yikes:

 

[darren]

Coz, considering the original question, the answer to your question is yes. If you consider all of the comments so far the question becomes how you change the rate of the bar without making all of the other components unhappy. There is only one way, you change the length of the lever. Some sway bars are actually made to be adjustable by putting multiple mounting holes in the end or by using a clamp that can be moved up and down the end of the bar. If you change the length of the lever, you change the rate. Typically most manufacturers of mass produced sway bars settle on a bar diameter and heat treat and call it good. You could modify the stock set up and change the rate of the bar, but you shouldn't. Getting it right would be a pain in the a$$. It's really not worth the trouble when you can purchase a new bar with the proper rate for less. Those that have said bars are not hard to make are right on target. Getting the correct rate in the bar so all of the children play happily is the hard part. I suspect the problem is already being solved as this discussion evolves.

What I done is drill the lower hole out, the one below the the std hole where the sway bay bolts to, there is already a hole there you just have to increase it and it will then put about 1"more force downwards. I have been riding with it for over 12 mths and have had no problems but you do need to space the plastic bracket with a washer or 2, and a shorter bolt, but only if you feel safe doing so. I even tried using the engine mounting rods from a Buell that worked but was to harsh.

 

[cjackg]

spyder stryder ; Thanks for the good explanation on the front end geometry. I will reinstall the evo on my 2011 RT and play with the spring settings and also the tire pressure. I was surprised at the difference the bar made on the 2010 RT. I'll try to match the settings for this test. I was told that the front shocks are different between the 2010 and 2011. Not sure if that is true. The numbers on the shocks seem to be the same but the spring is definitely different. If I find an improvement I probably will remove the bar from the 4 sale forum.

MMcc - Mike, As many times as you have installed this swaybar on an RT, do you usually remove the Frunk, or just loosen things up enough to change out the bar ?

 

[spyder stryder]

thats alot of good information spyder stryder, thanks for the education. it sounds like you're in the business.:thumbup: is the swaybar solid or a tube? i'll put it up on ramps tomorrow and take a real good look at it.

I'am sure it's solid from the small size. What would be nice is if you knew the rate on the bar.
Lets say the stock bar has a 250# spring rate & the aftermart mart has a 75-100# stiffer rate
then you are getting a positive change. I would at least match the bar rate to the spring rate
or stiffer on the bar.

 

[coz]

darren

did your swaybar mod make a noticeable difference? it sounds easy enough to do. other opinions on darrens mod?:dontknow: darren, can you post a pic of it? the plot thickens. wngrr, spyder stryder, scotty, thoughts and opinions?

 

[NancysToy]

did your swaybar mod make a noticeable difference? it sounds easy enough to do. other opinions on darrens mod?:dontknow: darren, can you post a pic of it? the plot thickens. wngrr, spyder stryder, scotty, thoughts and opinions?

For an RT, I'd say save your money for Elkas. JMHO

 

[spyder stryder]

If i were going to change the suspension on my bike for agressive riding performance
i would start with tires that will support the bike through hard corning.
Then find out the bar rateing,& get with John so he could set me up with a correct
spring & shock combo & suggest a bar rateing to go along as a complete package.