no more evo swaybar

[JCSMOKE]

NO NO NO!!!

VTC floorboards
VTC spoiler
VTC mini top vents
Elkas stage 1 shocks
Trailer hitch
Hid kit
Double play
Brite sides all around
Garage remote upgrade
More led lights
Turn signal indicator upgrade
And most important I have a gremlin bell on the way (thanks Bob)

You folks are not going to make me put a sway bar on this thing! :gaah:

 

[SPYD1]

look

 

[spyder-dude]

What happened to evoluzione?

 

[coz]

make it stiff

now that i have your attention,,,, what i was thinking of was some type of bracket or plate that could bolt on in the 90 ish degree areas of the swaybar that would reduce the flex. any thoughts, theories, or ideas ?opcorn:

 

[cjackg]

I have always been a bit confused by people saying if you upgrade the shocks you don't need the sway bar upgrade. That's like saying I've got apples so I don't need oranges.

Shocks and sway bar work together to improve suspension response and handling. They do 2 completely different jobs in 2 completely different ways.

Granted, if you have Elka's the improvement from a sway bar upgrade will not be as noticable, and vise-versa. But having both is definitely the best way to go.

Shocks work independently. Each shock spring pushing down on its respective wheel with the same force when going straight. In a turn, the outside shock spring pushes harder as it is compressed. The inside shock spring, though pushing with less force, is still exerting downward force, lifting the high side of the Spyder even higher and increasing lean angle. This is fine if you like more lean angle.

While shock springs are always pushing down no matter what, the sway bar is completely neutral and does nothing at all when riding straight ahead. The sway bar only comes into effect in a turn and its only function is to resist lean angle. It does this by transferring the down force energy of the outside wheel to up force energy on the inside wheel, and vise-versa.

In other words, the sway bar applies additional down force to the outside wheel, where it is needed, and resists the unneeded down force that the shock spring is exerting on the inside wheel, giving you less lean and a flatter stance in the turn. The harder you ride, or the higher the weight (like 2 up) the more sway bar effect you get.

Now it may be that BRP has stiffened up the OEM sway bar, and in this case I could see needing only a shock upgrade. But the best shocks in the world are not capable of overcoming a too weak sway bar.

I was told the part no. for the sway bar on the 2012 RT is the same as on the 2010 (BRP p/n 706201156).

BajaRon's comments above are the best explanation I have read yet on this whole topic!

 

[mrb]

View attachment 39796

Yep thats my Spyder. Best dollars I spent in my opinion.

 

[BajaRon]

VTC floorboards
VTC spoiler
VTC mini top vents
Elkas stage 1 shocks
Trailer hitch
Hid kit
Double play
Brite sides all around
Garage remote upgrade
More led lights
Turn signal indicator upgrade
And most important I have a gremlin bell on the way (thanks Bob)

You folks are not going to make me put a sway bar on this thing! :gaah:

As long as you don't know what you're missing....You'll be fine. hyea:

 

[JCSMOKE]

As long as you don't know what you're missing....You'll be fine. hyea:

That's the ticket! I ain't missin nuthin:yes:hyea:

 

[darren]

I find it difficult to cut a nice smooth arc in the sharper corners, seems like I'm constantly making corrections....would a sway bar help with this? :dontknow:

Im going to be hammered for this, try stiffer side wall tyres /non genuine, thats only if your have not tried it so far. Besides that the sway bay doe's help

 

[FANG]

I am stoked - I ordered the sway bar last night from Martin - now just waiting for it to come in. Fang is undergoing some major mods finally. Thanks to my great wife - Christmas present was to allow me to mod up my spyder the way I have wanted it.

Have ordered and received:
Tricled - fender lights and angel eyes
Glordyers
ESI - amber fender tip lights; mud flap lights; and hard bag lights
Custom Dynamics - triple play

on order and awaiting delivery:
Madtad windshield
Bert's Mega Mall - Can-am Givi hard bags with black color panels -- I have a silver moon spyder but want the black so I can pinstripe them in orange as I have the rest of the spyder.

waiting to order:
Corbin Back rest

 

[SPYD1]

I am stoked - I ordered the sway bar last night from Martin - now just waiting for it to come in. Fang is undergoing some major mods finally. Thanks to my great wife - Christmas present was to allow me to mod up my spyder the way I have wanted it.

Have ordered and received:
Tricled - fender lights and angel eyes
Glordyers
ESI - amber fender tip lights; mud flap lights; and hard bag lights
Custom Dynamics - triple play

on order and awaiting delivery:
Madtad windshield
Bert's Mega Mall - Can-am Givi hard bags with black color panels -- I have a silver moon spyder but want the black so I can pinstripe them in orange as I have the rest of the spyder.

waiting to order:
Corbin Back rest

You will love the sway bar but I strongly recommend complimenting it with a pair of 2011 RT shocks.

 

[dannymax]

Im going to be hammered for this, try stiffer side wall tyres /non genuine, thats only if your have not tried it so far. Besides that the sway bay doe's help

I checked my tires and the fronts are in the 13# - 15# range, may be a little low for my size...6' 5" @ 250#....think when riding season comes back around this spring I will play with the pressures more and see what happens. I also got a sway bar from Martin and have high hopes for the outcome. Plus, I only got about 600 mi. in before it was time to put it up for winter, so the 'bonding' is no where near complete. opcorn:

 

[NancysToy]

I checked my tires and the fronts are in the 13# - 15# range, may be a little low for my size...6' 5" @ 250#....think when riding season comes back around this spring I will play with the pressures more and see what happens. I also got a sway bar from Martin and have high hopes for the outcome. Plus, I only got about 600 mi. in before it was time to put it up for winter, so the 'bonding' is no where near complete. opcorn:

:agree: Try about 18-20 psi in the front tires. You'll be amazed at the difference. Also check to see where your front spring preload is set. You may need to crank it up.

 

[spyder stryder]

since evo swaybars are no longer available, is it possible, or even worth it, to modify the stock swaybar to stiffen it up. i think one of you hot rodders or engineers would know how to do this.:dontknow:opcorn:

coz post # 32
The only way to stiffen the stock bar is to shorten the arm length.
If you look at the complete bar the length from bend to bend is the
effective length of the bar which that & the wire size helps determen
the spring rate of the bar.If the spring rate is 300 # with a 6 inch arm
you shortened it to 5 inches then the bar will stiffen up some as the
shorter arm will have less leverage on the bar rate. You would have to
make another upper mount to reconnect the arm back to the chassis.

 

[FANG]

You will love the sway bar but I strongly recommend complimenting it with a pair of 2011 RT shocks.

Have the shocks already just have to put them on when I get all my other iyems in.

 

[spyder stryder]

I checked my tires and the fronts are in the 13# - 15# range, may be a little low for my size...6' 5" @ 250#....think when riding season comes back around this spring I will play with the pressures more and see what happens. I also got a sway bar from Martin and have high hopes for the outcome. Plus, I only got about 600 mi. in before it was time to put it up for winter, so the 'bonding' is no where near complete. opcorn:

A tire has a pumatic spring effect to it. Less air softer
more air harder.With less air the tire will roll over on the
side wall to much and cause a bad feel to the way the bike
handles. These bikes are not to be laid over through a turn
like a two wheeler so you have to break old habits & rethink
what is going on. As the low pressure lets the tire roll to much
it can't turn the weight as well. This can cause a understeering
or pushing effect meaning the bike will want to go straight instead
of holding the radius of the turn as it should. When you added air
the sidewall of the tire stiffened up so it could support the load &
turn the bike better. You need to be careful about the amount of
pressure in these tires as you know not enough & you wear the
outsides faster,to much you wear the center faster. Get something
to check the tire temp with then ride a few miles & check the temp.
Check about 1/2" from each edge & in the center. Center too hot drop
air 1/2 pound at the time until you have even temp,or go up which ever.
When the temp is even up if the bike goes back to the bad steering effect
then you will need a tire with more sidewall support.

 

[Campverdefela]

:agree: Try about 18-20 psi in the front tires. You'll be amazed at the difference. Also check to see where your front spring preload is set. You may need to crank it up.

The shop manual for the RS with the stock tires calls for a max. psi of 17. So is this wise to push the max rating? In my opinion 17 psi is plenty.

 

[NancysToy]

The shop manual for the RS with the stock tires calls for a max. psi of 17. So is this wise to push the max rating? In my opinion 17 psi is plenty.

As I recall, that manual also recommends 13-15 psi for front tire pressure. Unfortunately, the front tire sidewalls say otherwise. They are rated 15 psi minimum and 30 psi max, I believe. The max pressure means the tire itself is safe far above what BRP recommends. The minimum pressure is the one that worries me most. Tire manufacturers seldom state a minimum pressure, unless there is a serious safety issue running less, like the possibility of vehicle roll-over, or having the tire unseat off the rim. May of us have used about 20 psi on the RS and 18 on the RT for many years and many safe, sane miles. Run what you feel is safe and what handles best, but don't worry too much about anything but pressures outside those printed on the sidewalls.

 

[spyder stryder]

Ron did a good job on post #15 on the suspension differences between the shocks & bar results.
Now if you guys will look back on post #22 by SPYD1 & enlarge the photo so you can see it better
you will see three springs & two shocks mounted on the front of the spyder. Two springs are mounted
on the shocks which make these a coilover unit. The third spring is the anti roll bar that is red mounted
at the bottom of the chassis. The springs are the only thing that is holding the bike & rider weight up.
The shocks are hydraulic dampeners & will not support weight. They can be valved to be soft & react
quick or be valved stiff & react slower. The anti roll bar is made with spring steel just as the coil spring is.
This spring comes into effect only as the bike leans as you go into a turn then goes away when you complete
the turn & come back onto the straight road.The tires can & will change handeling with air pressure,less air
more flex in the side wall & less help in turning,more air stiffer sidewall more turning help. You need to find the
correct pressure for your bike you & the way you ride. Ok,lets go back to the springs. If your bike has a very
good smooth ride in a straight line but leans to much in a turn you can stiffen the springs to control the lean.
Lets say the spring rate is 200# per inch & you changed to a 300# rate. Now the bike corners much better &
stays flatter through the turn but the straight line ride is to harsh.Now lets back the spring rate down some &
the straight line ride is good but we have more lean than we like. Now time to change the third spring rate the
anti roll bar. Lets say the stock bar has a rate of 200# like the stock springs so we change it to a 300# bar.
Now we still have a good smooth ride & the bike will corner a lot flatter through the corner. By now you should
be catching on to what the springs do verses what the bar does. Now back to the shocks.With a good spring &
bar combo we find the bike has a sensitive or over reacting fell so we take a look & find the bike to be very under
shocked for what we need. So we change the shocks to a stiffer valving ( lets say we have a soft 50/50 2 valved
shock & change to a stiffer 50/50 8 valve shock) with these shocks the bike should have a much more positive feel
& better handeling. Or you might need a 6 valve on compression & a 7 valve on rebound. That will also be the decision
of the rider & how aggresive he rides. I feel it best to make sure your tires have the correct air pressure & stiff enough
sidewalls to support the weight for what you are doing. Then spring & bar rate to control the amount of roll with the
shocks finishing the handeling package. Do this in a complete well tuned package deal along with a very good rider &
you might make a lot of people faint when you set a new record at the Dragons Tail.

 

[RAYYOU]

Can-Am Spyder Performance Sway Bar RT and RT-S

Go to ebay motors and put in Item 230711601167. There are six left as of 9:35pm