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No choice have to get Baja Ron Sway Bar

h100250

New member
I guess I'm riding my 2018 RTL to aggressive and or taking turns way to fast, its diving and leaning :shocked: to where I'm forced to back off and the nanny is kicking in and out. My question is about how long does this take to do start to finish to complete, and or is it best to just do it in the off season since its so late in the year now?

I've been reading the reviews on the sway bar and was hoping to not have to fork over another $$$.$$ for more stuff but looks like I have no choice :chat:.
 
The RT is designed as a touring Spyder. You don't say what YOU are doing in the turns/curves; are you leaning in and pressing down hard on the outside footrest? Do you brake before the curves and then power through them, outside, inside, outside on your line? If you are doing so and you find the Spyder is still leaning too far outside to suit you and you want to continue to ride aggressively, a Bajaron antisway bar would be a good investment and you probably will consider it so after putting some miles on one. If you don't want to lay out the $$, slow down.
 
Technique before money.

Do you charge into corners, slam on the brakes, throw it into the turn and WOT it out? If so, stop that! Try working on SMOOTH transitions. Lots of riders throw money at the problem before they work on their technique. I've taught motorcycle riders, and almost to a one, street riders are way too abrupt trying to go fast.

Instead of binary operations: Brake, turn-in, apex, throttle out, fast riders are able to blend those operations. Brake earlier but lighter to settle the chassis, set your body position while max braking, and trail-brake as you turn in, as you come off the brake roll on the throttle at the apex and drive it out at max throttle.

If you're smooth, you can float the inside front tire without the Nanny getting mad.

After that, if you still want to.. THEN get the sway bar and you'll be even faster.
 
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Diving under braking.. not a sway bar problem. What shocks are you running and have you set the correct preload?
 
Reguardless....

Changing out to the BajaRon bar will make you smile .... 😁 If you have some skills and follow the instructions from Ron with the right lift you should be done in an hour or so. Given that, if you want a few rydes before the weather gets bad now would be the time. If you can live with your current set-up take your time and do it on the off season and chomp at the bit till the better weather to see the difference.....:thumbup:
 
The RT is designed as a touring Spyder. You don't say what YOU are doing in the turns/curves; are you leaning in and pressing down hard on the outside footrest? Do you brake before the curves and then power through them, outside, inside, outside on your line? If you are doing so and you find the Spyder is still leaning too far outside to suit you and you want to continue to ride aggressively, a Bajaron antisway bar would be a good investment and you probably will consider it so after putting some miles on one. If you don't want to lay out the $$, slow down.

I'm using the same sequence I do with my cycle I find the apex and power through it with little to no braking to help stabilize the rear and settle it down, however the front end is diving over to far and throws me off the line I selected causing me to correct 'slow down' :sour::( I know its a touring machine and no hot rod i.e. 'F3' but its capable of more than its thought to be and beside I want to know what it can do in case I may need it to get out of situation one day.
 
Diving under braking.. not a sway bar problem. What shocks are you running and have you set the correct preload?

Stock everything, I understand that there are possible shock alternatives but what my goal here is to push this right to the edge so I know what to expect if I ever have to use it. I don't want to throw money at it to turn it into a stiff riding non comfortable unit, I believe that even the stock stuff can be utilized to some degree without clearing out the wallet. If adjustable I'm all for that so as to be able to find a happy medium of better than now but nothing extreme if that makes sense!

Thanks.
 
Stock everything, I understand that there are possible shock alternatives but what my goal here is to push this right to the edge so I know what to expect if I ever have to use it. I don't want to throw money at it to turn it into a stiff riding non comfortable unit, I believe that even the stock stuff can be utilized to some degree without clearing out the wallet. If adjustable I'm all for that so as to be able to find a happy medium of better than now but nothing extreme if that makes sense!

Thanks.

Same problem with 2017 RT had a 2012 RT that had adjustable shocks that I set up so that it did not wallow in the corner, the 2017 standard shocks are way to soft for the way I ride so I put on Fox shocks and they have made a difference to the way the RT corners, they are adjustable and I think I will do 1 or 2 turns to make them a bit stiffer but I need to ride some more to to get a better feel for what needs to be done as for the sway bar everyone says it has improved their ride. I may in the future consider adding the sway bar but right now I am happy with my ride.
 
I guess I'm riding my 2018 RTL to aggressive and or taking turns way to fast, its diving and leaning :shocked: to where I'm forced to back off and the nanny is kicking in and out. My question is about how long does this take to do start to finish to complete, and or is it best to just do it in the off season since its so late in the year now?

I've been reading the reviews on the sway bar and was hoping to not have to fork over another $$$.$$ for more stuff but looks like I have no choice :chat:.

I have a 2018 RTL also and ordered the Baha Ron sway bar from Lamonster. it was $288 including shipping. Had my dealer install it for $90 - too about an hour.
BIG F
 
I guess I'm riding my 2018 RTL to aggressive and or taking turns way to fast, its diving and leaning :shocked: to where I'm forced to back off and the nanny is kicking in and out. My question is about how long does this take to do start to finish to complete, and or is it best to just do it in the off season since its so late in the year now?

I've been reading the reviews on the sway bar and was hoping to not have to fork over another $$$.$$ for more stuff but looks like I have no choice :chat:.

forgot to mention In previous post that we just got back from 3 days of riding in the twisting hills of NW Arkansas and the sway bar is awesome. My back saddle mate also said she can tell the difference on the turns, etc.
BIG F
 
Stock everything, I understand that there are possible shock alternatives but what my goal here is to push this right to the edge so I know what to expect if I ever have to use it. I don't want to throw money at it to turn it into a stiff riding non comfortable unit, I believe that even the stock stuff can be utilized to some degree without clearing out the wallet. If adjustable I'm all for that so as to be able to find a happy medium of better than now but nothing extreme if that makes sense!

Thanks.

The sway bar upgrade will not (actually cannot) make your ride stiffer. The sway bar simply provides much more control, adds stability of the machine as well as steering accuracy. And does so without adding any stiffness or harshness of ride.

However, you certainly can get a much stiffer ride with an aftermarket shock/spring combination. Thought this is not necessarily so. The wrong shock setup can really make for a stiff, harsh, uncomfortable ride. Don't get me wrong. Going with a better shock can really give you a great deal of improvement without any significant change in ride comfort. But just because they are new and even expensive, does not guarantee a comfortable ride.

Though the shocks and sway bar work together to (Ideally) provide the best possible ride and handling. And though the purposes of the sway bar and shocks do overlap somewhat. Both have a specific, important and separate function.

Some have ended up with a stiff or harsh ride when they attempted to compensate for the weak sway bar with too stiff (either hydraulically, spring rate, or both) shocks.

It really isn't that difficult to get it right. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from improving their ride. And you don't have to ride like a racer to enjoy the benefits of these upgrades. But it pays to do a bit of homework before you spend your money.
 
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The sway bar upgrade will not (actually cannot) make your ride stiffer. The sway bar simply provides much more control, adds stability of the machine as well as steering accuracy. And does so without adding any stiffness or harshness of ride.

However, you certainly can get a much stiffer ride with an aftermarket shock/spring combination. Thought this is not necessarily so. The wrong shock setup can really make for a stiff, harsh, uncomfortable ride. Don't get me wrong. Going with a better shock can really give you a great deal of improvement without any significant change in ride comfort. But just because they are new and even expensive, does not guarantee a comfortable ride.

Though the shocks and sway bar work together to (Ideally) provide the best possible ride and handling. And though the purposes of the sway bar and shocks do overlap somewhat. Both have a specific, important and separate function.

Some have ended up with a stiff or harsh ride when they attempted to compensate for the weak sway bar with too stiff (either hydraulically, spring rate, or both) shocks.

It really isn't that difficult to get it right. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from improving their ride. And you don't have to ride like a racer to enjoy the benefits of these upgrades. But it pays to do a bit of homework before you spend your money.

I am doing the sway bar no way of getting around that option from what I've notice if indeed shocks are the final solution I will evaluate that after some time with the BajaRon installed. Thanks for the tips.
 
I guess I'm riding my 2018 RTL to aggressive and or taking turns way to fast, its diving and leaning :shocked: to where I'm forced to back off and the nanny is kicking in and out. My question is about how long does this take to do start to finish to complete, and or is it best to just do it in the off season since its so late in the year now?

I've been reading the reviews on the sway bar and was hoping to not have to fork over another $$$.$$ for more stuff but looks like I have no choice :chat:.

I ride aggressively but not as aggressively as I think. I put on the sway bar and it really settled the RT down,front car tires also helped. As to how long to mount,I think it took me longer to get the tools and jack together and get it up in the air then it took to actually do the job.
 
Stiffened the shocks with Docs adjusters and installed Federal tires. This made a world of difference in the twisties. Nanny still kicks in, but I don't feel out of control anymore. The sway bar made my RT feel more stable on the road, but the tires and stiffened suspension changed things in the twisties.
 
+1 What Navy Dad said. In the 70's I was motocrossing, 80's and after, crotch rockets and hanging knees through corners, then older and on to cruisers, then to my RT. I know it's a touring bike, but sometimes I gotta flash back to the 70's and 80's.
I too started with stock, added BajaRon Bar, noticeably better, but, still not good enough, added Federal Formoza's, better, but still not right, then BajaRon Spring adjusters and now, now I'm done. I can carve like I thought it should. I used to bottom out occasionally, Haven't since the spring adjusters, I now have also picked up the inside front tire occasionally.
So it's a great cruiser and I do have a little wannabe road racer fun on it at times.
 
I guess I'm riding my 2018 RTL to aggressive and or taking turns way to fast, its diving and leaning :shocked: to where I'm forced to back off and the nanny is kicking in and out. My question is about how long does this take to do start to finish to complete, and or is it best to just do it in the off season since its so late in the year now?

I've been reading the reviews on the sway bar and was hoping to not have to fork over another $$$.$$ for more stuff but looks like I have no choice :chat:.
I was told by my Spyder Instructor that if the Nanny is kicking in during fast, hard cornering that I wasn't shifting my weight far enough into the turn. (Shifting is not the same as leaning)
 

Simply elementary my Dear Watson. Doubt if you are riding too aggressively or taking the corners too fast. Simple fix below!

Ron's Sway Bar and Squared Away Alignment. This gives the illusion that you are driving a Ferrari and not a Mac Truck!
:D

Direct from Uncle Jack's little known and less cared about Mystery Black Book. Guaranteed not to rust, bust or bite the baby!
 
I'm using the same sequence I do with my cycle I find the apex and power through it with little to no braking to help stabilize the rear and settle it down, however the front end is diving over to far and throws me off the line I selected causing me to correct 'slow down' :sour::( I know its a touring machine and no hot rod i.e. 'F3' but its capable of more than its thought to be and beside I want to know what it can do in case I may need it to get out of situation one day.


Even though that problem was corrected by a new sway bar, it wasn't the reason I installed one. I had to play around with the suspension settings ( rear air pressure), and tire pressures to get rid of that annoying 'settle' going thru the turns. The new sway bar did a great job dealing with side drafts and wind, and uneven surfaces when turning. Improving my technique and getting the RT set up for me was the key.
 
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