NO AIR IN REAR SHOCK--CAN IT BE RIDDEN

[BigLefty]

:dontknow: I have a problem with my automatic air suspension on a 2010 RT. It will no hold air and keeps blowing the fuse. My question is, can it be ridden 120 miles to the dealership without doing any damage to the rear suspension?? It would be mostly fairly smooth interstate highway.

Thanks
BigLefty

 

[jtoro1]

Yes you can ride it , it would be the same as when the suspension depletes the air on 2012 the upper left relay in the front trunk is the air suspension relay

 

[murphybrown]

Yep...battled the same issue

:dontknow: I have a problem with my automatic air suspension on a 2010 RT. It will no hold air and keeps blowing the fuse. My question is, can it be ridden 120 miles to the dealership without doing any damage to the rear suspension?? It would be mostly fairly smooth interstate highway.

Thanks
BigLefty

I also ryde a 2010 RT...rear shock would never hold air...even had it replaced under warranty....I put over 55k miles without...finally invested in the auto system that keeps it inflated and adjusts depending on weight on passenger seat...so ryde and enjoy the "bumps"....:clap:

 

[Chupaca]

Yeah..!!

not a great ryde, just take the long straight smooth roads....helps a bit...:thumbup:

 

[Magdave]

Have you tried to manually inflate it? Does it still lose air then? Obviously it needs to get to the dealer but take the smoothest road because riding with no air can damage the air bag ( if it isn't already). Mine leaked slowly and I had it fixed it hasn't leaked again. I did not need to install the auto air control nor do it want to as you see it can be one of those things that breaks. I never wanted power windows in a car until you pretty much can't buy one without them. If your fuse is blowing it sounds like the air pump is shot and there are a lot of threads on that happening and possible rebuild options if you are mechanically inclined. If it still leaks after manual inflation you may also have air valve issues. Did you notice it constantly turning on before it died or was it all of a sudden? Don't be shocked but the compressor is $329 + labor to replace. Below is a video on how to try and fix it on your own and a possible replacement.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...or-Air-suspension-compressor&highlight=mickay

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?57423-Suspension-compressor&highlight=pump

 

[NancysToy]

It is not a good idea to ride the Spyder too much with no air in the air bag. Doing so will cause premature wear on the air bag and possible failure. A short trip or two probably won't kill it, however. I would suggest pulling the fuse (or leaving the blown one in place) to disable the system, then fill through the Schrader valve to precharge to air bag. For a solo rider 30-50 psi should be plenty. If the air bag, piping, and air release valve are all intact, the system should not leak down. If it does, you have other things to address besides the cause of the blown fuses.

 

[Sarge707]

I also ryde a 2010 RT...rear shock would never hold air...even had it replaced under warranty....I put over 55k miles without...finally invested in the auto system that keeps it inflated and adjusts depending on weight on passenger seat...so ryde and enjoy the "bumps"....:clap:

My 2012 RT Never held air for long (Manual) with 8,000 miles I just ride it.

 

[Magdave]

My 2012 RT Never held air for long (Manual) with 8,000 miles I just ride it.

Mine would lose 5lb a week not a big leak but still I went in under warranty and had it fixed. They replaced the lines and it holds steady...for now. I tightened the shrader valve before that which did lessen the leak a little, it was worse. Mine is a manual fill too.:thumbup:

 

[Dizneyman]

Be Careful

be careful when you manually fill it. using a standard high pressure pump will get it over 100 lbs in a second or two and also damage the bag. I found a small bicycle pump with the proper fitting to work best.

 

[BigLefty]

Thanks for you comments and suggestions. I also have a little more information. I have tried the manual operation by adding 30-40 PSI thru the valve under the seat, but the system leaks down to nothing within a few minutes. That along with the fact that the fuse instantly blows when engine is running and transmission is shifted into gear, leads me to believe that the solenoid valve that normally bleeds off pressure as-needed and after the Spyder is turned off is "stuck" and causing both problems--air leak and fuse blowing. Several others have mentioned a "stuck" bleed-off valve could be the cause.

Trailered the Spyder to the dealership this afternoon--will report back on the findings

Thanks
again!!

 

[Magdave]

Thanks for you comments and suggestions. I also have a little more information. I have tried the manual operation by adding 30-40 PSI thru the valve under the seat, but the system leaks down to nothing within a few minutes. That along with the fact that the fuse instantly blows when engine is running and transmission is shifted into gear, leads me to believe that the solenoid valve that normally bleeds off pressure as-needed and after the Spyder is turned off is "stuck" and causing both problems--air leak and fuse blowing. Several others have mentioned a "stuck" bleed-off valve could be the cause.

Trailered the Spyder to the dealership this afternoon--will report back on the findings

Thanks
again!!

Sounds like you have it nailed since it isn't holding air manually. Shorted bleed valve is a good guess. :thumbup: