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998cc Newbie with 2008 990, stumbling and limp mode

D

drummertom

New member
2008 Spyder 990 SE5 stumbling on throttle acceleration.

My widowed next door neighbor is an absolutely wonderful person. Her and her deceased husband both rode Spyders. I got hers up and running after replacing the gas tank, fuel pump, and sender. Now I have moved on the her husbands. I replaced the fuel pump module in it and got it running, replaced spark plugs, and some brake work. It does run now but most or the time, under acceleration, it bogs and spits. This is while sitting still, haven't tried to ride it yet. I was wondering if the fuel pressure regulator could be at fault and any way to test it? Is there something else to look at? I feel like I am getting good pressure through the pump but not to the injectors. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. I also just noticed if I try to ride it, it goes into limp mode, and will not go into reverse. I feel like the two are related, but unsure of why it goes into limp mode.
 
drummertom said:
My widowed next door neighbor is an absolutely wonderful person. Her and her deceased husband both rode Spyders. I got hers up and running after replacing the gas tank, fuel pump, and sender. Now I have moved on the her husbands. I replaced the fuel pump module in it and got it running, replaced spark plugs, and some brake work. It does run now but most or the time, under acceleration, it bogs and spits. This is while sitting still, haven't tried to ride it yet. I was wondering if the fuel pressure regulator could be at fault and any way to test it? Is there something else to look at? I feel like I am getting good pressure through the pump but not to the injectors. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. I also just noticed if I try to ride it, it goes into limp mode, and will not go into reverse. I feel like the two are related, but unsure of why it goes into limp mode.
Click to expand...

Wow that's a lot parts ..... any Spyder V-twin that old, needs to have the rubber tubes to the THROTTLE body re-placed, .... there will be MICRO-SCOPIC cracks in the rubber ..... get some silicone tubing and I'm sure the problem will be solved ..... and Thank you for helping this Lady out, you are a real good Samaritan :clap::clap::clap: ............... Mike :thumbup:
 
My widowed next door neighbor is an absolutely wonderful person. Her and her deceased husband both rode Spyders. I got hers up and running after replacing the gas tank, fuel pump, and sender. Now I have moved on the her husbands. I replaced the fuel pump module in it and got it running, replaced spark plugs, and some brake work. It does run now but most or the time, under acceleration, it bogs and spits. This is while sitting still, haven't tried to ride it yet. I was wondering if the fuel pressure regulator could be at fault and any way to test it? Is there something else to look at? I feel like I am getting good pressure through the pump but not to the injectors. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. I also just noticed if I try to ride it, it goes into limp mode, and will not go into reverse. I feel like the two are related, but unsure of why it goes into limp mode. Thanks for any help. Sorry for the double post. I couldn;t find my original post, so I added this one. If moderators need to delete it, that's fine since I found my original. Thanx again.
 
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The questions you ask are well above my pay grade but I admire your efforts to help out a neighbor. The world could use a lot more folks like you.
 
This should work the same for you as the rs taken from the do's and do not post.

RS: (Provided by NancysToys.)
1. Turn Ignition key to "ON"
2. Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen. Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
3. Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
4. The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
5. If you do not get a message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
6. Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this with your mechanic.
 
drummertom said:
Is there any way to get the codes other that a BUDS scanner?
Click to expand...

It's always best to get codes after the check engine light or other fault light comes on. Check for codes before you shut the Spyder off with the engine still running.

With engine running.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

If you cannot start the engine.
Press and hold the headlight overrun button on the front of the right handlebar controls.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button and headlight overrun button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
 
OK Update on my Spyder issue. What I have done so far: Repl fuel pump, air filter, plugs and wires, boots between carb and air box, oil and filter, vacuum lines from the carbs to the MAP sensor, the vac lines from carb to fuel pressure regulator, and probably a few other things. No CEL, but still backfires and does not run right. I'm all out of things to try. Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. And by the way, no active fault codes.
 
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drummertom said:
OK Update on my Spyder issue. What I have done so far: Repl fuel pump, air filter, plugs and wires, boots between carb and air box, oil and filter, vacuum lines from the carbs to the MAP sensor, the vac lines from carb to fuel pressure regulator, and probably a few other things. No CEL, but still backfires and does not run right. I'm all out of things to try. Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. And by the way, no active fault codes.
Click to expand...

The only thing I can think of ( after all you've done ) is the early V-twin engine did have THROTTLE BODY issues - I think there was a re-call for them ..... maybe someone else can validate this .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
Hey Tom. I didn’t notice the fuel filter specifically mentioned. Did you replace that?
Second question - this backfiring issue. Does the motor run normally for about 4 - 5 minutes-ish before the backfiring and roughness start? Or does it all happen immediately after startup?
 
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Snowbelt Spyder said:
Hey Tom. I didn’t notice the fuel filter specifically mentioned. Did you replace that?
Second question - this backfiring issue. Does the motor run normally for about 4 - 5 minutes-ish before the backfiring and roughness start? Or does it all happen immediately after startup?
Click to expand...

No, didn't replace fuel filter. The backfiring starts within a minute or so.
 
drummertom said:
No, didn't replace fuel filter. The backfiring starts within a minute or so.
Click to expand...

Well, why don’t you replace the fuel filter, and get some fuel injector cleaner going through the system, put a few more miles on it and see how it goes. Unless it’s still entirely un-rideable. See if the backfiring subsides. Also if you would, try to determine if the motor runs normally for a few minutes, and if the backfiring doesn’t start until after a definite and repeatable time delay.
 
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There were no TB issues with the early Spyders because it was manually operated. The all electrics one caused a lot of trouble.
 
Changed fuel filter but have not run injector cleaner through it yet. I will do that, then ride a little and see. Thanx to everyone for your help on this matter.
 
Something interesting. My 2008 GS was having issues over the last year. I had a Can Am Spyder mechanic in Macon Georgia work on it as I was stuck away from home. After a huge chunk of money and no Buds, I rode home to Nashville. It began malfunctioning on the way home. I parked at my daughters farm.

Problem: It would misfire and generate many messages DPS, VSS, Check Engine, etc. It was completely dying on interstate 24. This is very hair raising going 50-60mph in traffic. No other option. Like you, I was pulling my hair out. I could not get a reading on codes (still don't know how).

I recently found a mechanic, locally, with a BUDs. After $100 for diagnostics and $140 for part and labor it was a brake switch.
The mechanic with BUDs could not tell me how to get codes.

I've put over 60 miles on and all seems to be cleared up. If something goes wrong, I'll update here.
 
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