Greetings to all Spyder owners. I purchased a 2026 S2S in April from a dealer who is four hours away, so taking it back for help would be inconvenient and probably hopeless, but that's another story. The drive belt since new is running flush against the inside flange on the rear pulley, so me being a mechanic, I loosened the axle nut enough to be able to turn the allen adjustment screw clock wise 3/4 of a turn and then torqued the axle nut back to speck. I rode it down the road about two miles and checked for any clearance, but it is still flush against the flange with no change. Does it take more adjustment in order to move the belt away from the inside flange? I was trying to be conservative with the adjustment, trying not to over do it. Any advice on what I'm doing?
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Newbie needing advice on adjusting the drive belt alignment - anyone?
- Thread starter Will W
- Start date
Woodaddict
Well-known member
You didn't specify right or left adjustment bolt. So without adding or subtracting tension on the left side, right side counterclockwise would move belt away from pulley. Make sure adjuster is tight, that it is moving up. If you moved left side, move that side amount you moved in opposite direction. Might want to get a Kricket gage, that measures tension of belt, and download a service manual.
So when adjusting, left Side mostly controls tension, right side mostly controls where on the pulley the belt rides.
And the rear axle torque is 167 ft lbs with a 36mm hex socket, did you do that?
So when adjusting, left Side mostly controls tension, right side mostly controls where on the pulley the belt rides.
And the rear axle torque is 167 ft lbs with a 36mm hex socket, did you do that?
Jetfixer
Well-known member
You're shooting for the thickness of one or two credit cards clearance between the belt and the flange. And NEVER gauge it if it was moved in reverse before you adjusted it. This belt will wander all of the place in reverse. Always roll the wheel forward to measure the clearance from the flange.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Yes, clockwise is correct. The two responses above have it backwards. I usually do a combination of both sides just to keep the belt tension relatively the same. So, go again - maybe half a turn CW on the right, half a turn CCW on the left. If you have a zero blow hammer, or just a piece of wood, might need to give the axle head on the left, a little tap in order to be sure it moves into the new position. As you re-tighten the nut, the axle has a tendency to try to walk back to the rear on the right side. A tap works there, too. You are on the right track. Just keep tweaking on it. And you don't really need to go to full torque just for the short test ride. That's way too much of a pain. Despite what's said on Internet forums, don't roll or turn the wheel by hand in order to check your alignment. Always do it under engine power going forward. The clearance spec is 1mm - 5mm. Credit cards have nothing to do with anything. Another forum false-hood. Follow the manual.
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Thanks Snowbelt. I will take your advice.
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