Good day, I just purchased my first 3-wheeler, having discovered that I can no longer trust my wonky knee to hold up my motorcycle. I have some concerns about the handling of my new Spyder - specifically, at speeds over 50 mph, I find the steering wobbles. It doesn't dive to the side, it just sort of wanders a bit. So, my question is: is this normal for a 3-wheeler?
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New to Spyder - Have a handling question
- Thread starter louk
- Start date
Warlock
New member
When coming from a 2 wheel to the spyders is a bit of a learning process. You don't grip you bars tight at all. You have to relax your grip and almost just use your handle bars as props for you arm. Keep a loose grip and it will make a big difference. When I first got mine I was wobbling all over the road until I learned to relax the grip.
David
ThreeWheels
Active member
NO ! EMPHATICALLY. IT IS NOT NORMAL.
A properly tuned Spyder rides like it's on RAILS at speeds up to 108 MPH. DAMHIKT.
Something is WRONG.
There are many possibilities.
1) Riding Technique. Some say your grip is too tight, and you may be overcompensating the steering.
2) Air Pressure in the tires. The front tires should be pumped up to about 20 PSI and the pressure should vary less than 1/2 PSI between the left and right. When the pressure is too high, the Spyder "Sits up on the balls of it's feet" and is very sensitive to small variations in the road.
I can't see the year of your Spyder. Perhaps something is age related? Is your Spyder used or new?
3) Tire Problems. The tires may be damaged, perhaps a cord in the tire has slipped. It may be the tires are not balanced properly
4) Steering Linkage. Maybe something in the steering linkage is worn, such as a ball joint or tie rod end.
5) Alignment. The earlier models (pre 2014) had front end alignment problems from the factory. Maybe a previous owner hit a curb or something else? The solution is to get a laser alignment.
I'd recommend looking into the easy fixes first. Check your tire pressures and the condition of the tires. Are they out of balance? Perhaps a balancing weight fell off.
If that doesn't fix things for you, see about getting a laser alignment. As I said before, a properly aligned Spyder will track like it's on rails.
Maybe when you take it for an alignment, you can have the suspension checked for physical damage/worn parts.
Rest assured, there is a solution, you just need to find it.
Good Luck, keep us posted so we know how you make out.
As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Depending on the interpretation of your terminology, it may be normal. It may not. I'm not sure we have enough information to make an accurate response.
With 2 wheels in front, the Spyder will, of course, follow dips and humps in the road. This will produces a left/right or right/left tilt which can be unnerving to a person coming off 2 wheels. The Spyder will also 'Hunt' just a bit. Neither of these are 'Issues'. Attempting to correct for these movements will be counter productive.
The Spyder is also very steering input sensitive. On 2 wheels. You can move the handlebars a fair amount with no real reaction. It actually takes some time between handlebar input and a response from the machine. Not so with the Spyder. Any handlebar input, no matter how slight, will result in nearly instant reaction. This creates unintended movement and makes the Spyder feel 'Twitchy'. In reality, it's just very responsive. The rider needs to keep body movement from reaching the handlebars. This is why it is important to 'RELAX, RELAX, RELAX!' Gripping the bars or stiffening the arms to force the Spyder to go straight will make things much worse.
Yes, the Spyder will hunt a bit. But it will always come back. Trying to correct for slight movement will also make things worse.
Using the term 'Wobble' can mean many things. My definition may be different from yours. However, I would interpret a wobble to be the result of a loose steering component. Like a tie rod end or wheel bearing. These would be serious issues which should be addressed right away.
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JayBros
Well-known member
I agree with the previous two responses. You do not say what year and model your Spyder is. As ThreeWheels says, if you lift your hands off the bars on a level, straight road your machine should track like an arrow shot from a crossbow. If it doesn't there is something wrong with the alignment and/or tires. Brand new Spyders, although BRP has gotten better with alignments off the assembly line, still is not what it could be. And the OEM tires are crap.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Two comments about the above: My recollection of " turning " " steering " a two wheeler was / is .... the only time you would do this would have been in your garage or parking lot with the motor OFF. ...... and as far GRIP Pressure goes - I use as little as possible to accomplish what Steering is necessary to stay in my lane. ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup: PS I suggest you read the Sticky " do's and do nots " at the beginning of the Spyder General Discussion ... lots of info about how to drive a Spyder / Ryker to achieve optimum handling ..... Mike :thumbup:
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SLICE
Member
everything i did on my first 59 mile ride home was all related to two wheels and had me doubting my decision on buying a can am, 650 miles later and i'm 100% better, not perfect but better.
i'm guessing it'll take me another 650 miles to feel 100% comfortable.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Another vote for "death grip/white knuckle" steering.
I used to recommend: pretend there is an egg between you palm and the handgrip. Don't break the egg. A gentle push/pull motion is best for steering control. The Spyder is "very" sensitive to steering input. In most cases, this will solve your issue. If not: then the mechanical information is what to look at.
There is a driver "break-in." It is about 500 miles for most to get comfortable with the new Spyder and the way it drives. It took me 1500 miles. I got mine when they first came out, and there was not a wealth of information available at your fingertips, like currently.
:congrats: and let us know what happens with you. :yes:
I used to recommend: pretend there is an egg between you palm and the handgrip. Don't break the egg. A gentle push/pull motion is best for steering control. The Spyder is "very" sensitive to steering input. In most cases, this will solve your issue. If not: then the mechanical information is what to look at.
There is a driver "break-in." It is about 500 miles for most to get comfortable with the new Spyder and the way it drives. It took me 1500 miles. I got mine when they first came out, and there was not a wealth of information available at your fingertips, like currently.
:congrats: and let us know what happens with you. :yes:
Like mentioned before, coming off of riding two wheels, going to three wheels is a all new experience and one has the tendency to compare two wheel sensation to the three wheel and it is like apple to a orange. When I drove home 260 miles from getting my first Spyder, I thought that I made a very big mistake due to how different the handling was. It took 1000 miles roughly to get to know the bike and how it was a different kind of riding experience, but afterwards, love the moments riding. Once I realised that it was not the bike, but me not understanding how to ride it, all is good.
I rode two wheels for years. And like you; a knee injury (tripped and fell - driving a 3/4 inch bolt thru my kneecap and twisting the leg sideways - tearing mcl, lcl and acl)
So... Not as confident holding up a two wheeler - especially with my wife or grandsons on board. I have just shy of 2000 miles on my Spyder since purchase and I am STILL feeling my way along.
Listen to the folks on here regarding air pressure - some of it is counter intuitive but they are right.
Trust that the Spyder will make the turn - my experience was "wobbling" was my fault because I was not trusting the front end to stick - and was drifting wide on turns and then attempting to tuck it in too late - unsettling the Spyder.
The Spyder feeling like it wants to "toss you off" adds to the unsettled feeling as you are focusing your attention on your core and then often grasping the bars tightly to stay on - your body weight moves and turns your handlebars.
IF you are uncomfortable shifting body weight - try driving your knees into the "tank" and pressing down harder with your feet - this will make you feel more secure and allow you to pay attention to the pressure youre exerting on the handlebars.
I have found that thinner soled shoes (as opposed to my riding boots) actually help me feel more of what the Spyder is doing and makes me feel more in control.
But like I said, at 2000 miles - I am still learning the Spyder and starting to feel more in control and leaving some my two wheel ideas behind.
So... Not as confident holding up a two wheeler - especially with my wife or grandsons on board. I have just shy of 2000 miles on my Spyder since purchase and I am STILL feeling my way along.
Listen to the folks on here regarding air pressure - some of it is counter intuitive but they are right.
Trust that the Spyder will make the turn - my experience was "wobbling" was my fault because I was not trusting the front end to stick - and was drifting wide on turns and then attempting to tuck it in too late - unsettling the Spyder.
The Spyder feeling like it wants to "toss you off" adds to the unsettled feeling as you are focusing your attention on your core and then often grasping the bars tightly to stay on - your body weight moves and turns your handlebars.
IF you are uncomfortable shifting body weight - try driving your knees into the "tank" and pressing down harder with your feet - this will make you feel more secure and allow you to pay attention to the pressure youre exerting on the handlebars.
I have found that thinner soled shoes (as opposed to my riding boots) actually help me feel more of what the Spyder is doing and makes me feel more in control.
But like I said, at 2000 miles - I am still learning the Spyder and starting to feel more in control and leaving some my two wheel ideas behind.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Perfect mirror image of my experience. You're going to be just fine. All it takes is a brain reset from 2-wheels.
Just went through this with my brand new 2022 RT. Off the lot, a terrible shimmy would start at about 57 MPH. Laser aligned had already been completed as part of the set-up process. Turned out the two front tires had flat spots from sitting in crate. Dealer replaced those brand new tires with another set and the wobble/shimmy went completely away. The technician said they see it all the time with units out of the crate.
Dittos to the above. I've tallied just 550 miles on mine and it's getting better. Still not fully in my comfort zone, but better.
My biggest challenge was the bike darting to the side when I hit dips on that side. Also happened while crossing pronounced center crowns. A looser grip and letting the bike move under you goes a long way toward correcting this. Just keep it steady, don't let your body movements transfer to the handlebars.
In my case it also helped lowering front TP to 18 - really smoothed things out.
My biggest challenge was the bike darting to the side when I hit dips on that side. Also happened while crossing pronounced center crowns. A looser grip and letting the bike move under you goes a long way toward correcting this. Just keep it steady, don't let your body movements transfer to the handlebars.
In my case it also helped lowering front TP to 18 - really smoothed things out.
Lew L
Well-known member
I had the same problem with 2014 when new===== with the same solution.
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