I've ridden a bike for over 20 years and I'm having a tough time adjusting to the dynamics of the spyder... specifically right hand sweepers at freeway speeds 60mph and up. I end up pushing to the left and have a couple of times scared the tar out of myself with a near miss or two. I have no problems with left hand sweepers I seem to track well enough. Any suggestions???
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New to 3 wheels
- Thread starter AGH13
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
:welcome:
First:
R E L A X . . .
lighten up your grip on the bars: your hands will thank you.
As you set up for a turn: brace yourself against your outside leg, and lean forward, and into the turn a bit.
Forget anything that you ever saw, heard, might have remembered, dreamed, or imagined about counter-steering. It no longer exists! nojoke
Turn the bars in the direction that you want to go. It takes some time to figure out exactly how much and when, but it will come to you with experience.
If you're scaring yourself: slow down! There'll be time for learning how to go faster later.
Now; go have some fun! :thumbup:
First:
R E L A X . . .
lighten up your grip on the bars: your hands will thank you.
As you set up for a turn: brace yourself against your outside leg, and lean forward, and into the turn a bit.
Forget anything that you ever saw, heard, might have remembered, dreamed, or imagined about counter-steering. It no longer exists! nojoke
Turn the bars in the direction that you want to go. It takes some time to figure out exactly how much and when, but it will come to you with experience.
If you're scaring yourself: slow down! There'll be time for learning how to go faster later.
Now; go have some fun! :thumbup:
There's a steep learning curve when going from 2 wheels to 3 (500-1000 miles). Doesn't matter if it's 2 in the rear, or 2 in the front. I've gone thru all 3 stages. On a trike, you can't lean; but you have to learn how to shift your weight to negotiate curves. For me I had to adapt to the quicker steering of my RTL. There's a post here title Dos and Don'ts, you may want to give it a read. The only aspect of the Spyder you can change for "free" is tire pressures. Last time I looked the nominal front tire pressure is 20 PSI +/- 2PSI(18-22 PSI). Then rear tire is 28PSI +/- 2 PSI(26-30 PSI). I would begin by focusing on your front tire pressures and see if there's any improvement in you riding.
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ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:welcome: and :congrats: on your new :ani29:
Here is a helpful link for new riders. It contains a lot of information about handling. There is about a 500 mile learning curve from 2 to 3.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
Let us know how you are doing in 500 miles or so. And Bob D. is very right. Don't out drive your capabilities. Your handling and speed will improve with miles and smiles.
I had the first Spyder in Alaska and it took me about 1500 miles before I was comfortable. There was no one to help me figure it out. :yes:
Here is a helpful link for new riders. It contains a lot of information about handling. There is about a 500 mile learning curve from 2 to 3.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
Let us know how you are doing in 500 miles or so. And Bob D. is very right. Don't out drive your capabilities. Your handling and speed will improve with miles and smiles.
I had the first Spyder in Alaska and it took me about 1500 miles before I was comfortable. There was no one to help me figure it out. :yes:
I've got a little over 600 miles on it so I'm still really fresh. I read that article and wanted a little more with regards to riding tips. Which I'm getting. I know I have to loosen my hands but the steering is so touchy that I have to consciously tell myself to loosen up. I also ride with tensed legs sometimes. LOL but with all of that when I get home and get off the bike I'm figuring out when I can get back on...
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I usually chime in with pretend there are eggs between your hands and the grips--don't break the eggs.
A light push/pull on the bars will help to prevent oversteer. Enter curves from the inside to the outside. Speed should be such that you can accelerate slightly. If you need to brake at the start of the curve--your going a bit fast. Steer into (no counter steering) the curve. Plant the inside foot on the footpeg and grab the tank with both legs, lean slightly into the curve and head towards the other side. Don't cross the centerline. The g forces will be reduced. After you have it mastered, you can usually do curves at 15 to 20 + if your skill set allows.
Hope this information adds to your knowledge. :yes:
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SpyderAnn01
Active member
Actually it is 1/2 pound between them. At 2 pounds difference you will have a noticeable handling difference.
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