New style rear tire

[Lamonster]

I saw a post about the rear tire being different and sure enough I looked at my new tire and it has been changed. My old one looks just like the fronts. Not sure when they made the change but I think the PE owners have the old style. Maybe they were changed because of the reports of hydroplaning.:dontknow:

Fronts are the same.

 

[jeuchler]

I saw a post about the rear tire being different and sure enough I looked at my new tire and it has been changed. My old one looks just like the fronts. Not sure when they made the change but I think the PE owners have the old style. Maybe they were changed because of the reports of hydroplaning.:dontknow:

Fronts are the same.

That does look like it'll run way better in the wet.

(Could you give us the price, Lamont?)

When's the snow tire coming out?!

 

[Lamonster]

Rear Tire- 154.99
Front Tire- 89.99 times 2

 

[Greg H.]

Rear Tire- 154.99
Front Tire- 89.99 times 2

After 12,000 miles, I'm thinking that's not to bad.

 

[NancysToy]

We have PE #2466 and its rear tire looks just like your new one.
-Scotty

 

[HotMike]

Mirror Image

I don't know and maybe my eyes are playing tricks. But it looks like the same tire except mounted backwards.

 

[Lamonster]

I don't know and maybe my eyes are playing tricks. But it looks like the same tire except mounted backwards.

I have it facing backwards so you can see the BRP sticker but look at the BIG groves in the middle on the new tire.

 

[Lamonster]

After 12,000 miles, I'm thinking that's not to bad.

12623 on that tire in the picture. :doorag:

 

[Rokonman]

They appear to have made the switch in the 500-700 PE number range. I have asked the Spyder Team why. No response yet.

 

[Trypod]

The open center on the tread pattern pumps water much faster than a rib or narrow center line. Good mud/snow tires have a lug pattern, the lugs don't necessarily grip any better but the lugs move individually and help dislodge trapped mud/snow faster resulting in the better traction.

 

[NancysToy]

A lot of motorcycle tire are built like this. slanted grooves on the side to dissipate water and reduce hydroplaning, and continuous center ribs to make them wear longer...maybe increase straight-line traction on dry pavement, too.
-Scotty

 

[HotMike]

Like I said,,,, my eyes were decieving me.. that big groove surely lets alot of water channel out form the tire. I have ridden in some heavy downpours but have been extra cautious due to the hydroplaning warnings on the boards. No slipping or sliding so far.
THX

 

[SpyderMark]

Maybe they were changed because of the reports of hydroplaning.

I believe BRP has been aware of the hydroplaning issue with the Spyder since day one. From the Spyder Operator's guide Page 24:

"Avoid puddles and running water. The vehicle hydroplanes more easily than a car. If you must go through water, slow down."​

And on Page 48:​

"There is normally enough traction to maintain control on pavement that is moist or wet, as long as there is not a layer of water on top of the pavement (like a puddle or flowing water on the road). As with other vehicles, the Spyder roadster can hydroplane if you drive too fast over water that has accumulated on the road, but hydroplaning occurs at lower speeds than with most cars or motorcycles."​

I suspect this has more to do with the relatively low recommended tire pressure on the front wheels than the tread pattern. Read this article from the Tirerack.com to see how under-inflated tires react to water.​

At 28 - 30 psi, the rear wheel shouldn't react this way to water, but there isn't much weight back there...​

Be careful out there!​

Regards,​

Mark​