new slightly frustrated RT rider

[jos]

Hi
After reading this forum for several years ( and what a good forum this is !!), I picked up my 2012 RT(W) LTD two days ago. Hired a flat bed trailer, drove over 200 miles to the nearest dealer and dragged the lot back home. Was test driven by the dealer before I picked it up and all seemed OK.
At home, me and the 2CO went for a brief trip. After 20 miles CHECK DPS message came on, folllowed by CHECK ENGINE. Stopped at the road side, waited for some time, restarted, and problem persisted
Drove back home, contacted the dealer. This morning problem still there. Now have to hire a trailer again, drive all the way to the dealer and have it checked out....not a good start of a promising relationship. I am sure things can only get better:banghead:
Cheers from sunny Australia

 

[spyder3]

Sorry to here that. This time when they tell you its ready, drive it around the dealership area to MAKE SURE its ok...Hang in there, its worth it.

 

[fastfraser]

I would give the battery connections and relays a look make sure everything is tight and seated. Also your battery may not have been fully charged ! The DPS is a huge draw on the battery .:dontknow:

 

[Lamonster]

Not sure how long it had been sitting before you picked it up but I would throw it on a 2 amp charger first over night and then check for codes.

 

[SteveMac]

Not sure how long it had been sitting before you picked it up but I would throw it on a 2 amp charger first over night and then check for codes.

Good advice here. An may save you the cost of renting a trailer.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: Sorry to hear of your problems. Bad that it is 200 miles to get back to the dealer. Your problems may be related to low charge on the battery as mentioned above. Try the charge up before making a trip to the dealer.

If you have to go back to the dealer though, recommend taking it on a 30 to 50 mile test drive while still there, if the problem still persits, you are still in the dealers area.

 

[jos]

:welcome: Sorry to hear of your problems. Bad that it is 200 miles to get back to the dealer. Your problems may be related to low charge on the battery as mentioned above. Try the charge up before making a trip to the dealer.

If you have to go back to the dealer though, recommend taking it on a 30 to 50 mile test drive while still there, if the problem still persits, you are still in the dealers area.

Thanks guys for the warm welcome and advice. I started the engine up a couple of times and message "check engine" kept coming up. I ignored the message and went for a ride. Just at leaving the driveway, the message went into cyberspace...gone...:hun:went for a drive around the country roads, all OK, no more "check engine" light:yes:Better check the battery terminals tomorrow...cheers, jos

 

[Bob Denman]

:thumbup: Good luck and please keep us posted as to how this issue gets worked out! :welcome:

 

[chris56]

..welcome ..
if you would be in Austria.. the DSP warning comes if its under -10° C !! tested it yesterday
chris

 

[NancysToy]

It sounds like the check engine light could have been due to a dirty sensor. These generally clear themselves after a little operation, and do not recur. If it shows up frequently, I'd see your dealer, but otherwise just put on some miles and ride. At the time of service, the dealer can look into the fault history and probably determine the cause. he will likely just clear the codes, if there is no lingering problem.

 

[Mr. White]

Regardless of the outcome of your problem, get a Battery Tender and plug it into the outlet in your trunk if not riding for a few days. It keeps your battery charged and may save future problems. Good luck. p.s. You will get a limp mode if you ride the brake! I know.

:spyder2:

 

[jos]

Hi
Took the 2CO for a trip this morning, sunny morning, lovely, all well, went for 3/4 hour...then, out of the blue CHECK DPS again :banghead: this time it reverted to limp mode, had a slow trip home. Will get a flat bed trailer this week and cart it off to the dealer, long trip 200 miles to the dealer!..wish I was retired and time would not be of a premium.
Stay positive

 

[spyder-dude]

Did you charge the battery with a trickle charger yet? I really think this could be the problem if the battery is low.....Worth giving it a try.

I have this one and it works great and you can get at walmart. I always leave it on the spyder when in the garage!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumache...ronic-Trickle-Charger-and-Maintainer/15167353

Later,

Shawn

 

[Mr. White]

Did you charge the battery with a trickle charger yet? I really think this could be the problem if the battery is low.....Worth giving it a try.

I have this one and it works great and you can get at walmart. I always leave it on the spyder when in the garage!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumache...ronic-Trickle-Charger-and-Maintainer/15167353

Later,

Shawn

I have four of these for my scoots, riding mower and tractor. Work great. This is a newer model as it has the cigarette attachment to plug in the trunk of the RT. Mine are two amps vs three.

:spyder2:

 

[kman]

Before you rent a trailer I agree with the aforementioned suggestions.Check your battery connections (see manual) and put it on a charger.The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[NancysToy]

Good advice here. The DPS is the biggest current draw on the Spyder, other than the starter motor. A low battery condition can certainly cause these problems. Loose relays can, too. In addition, loose battery terminals are common on Spyders at the time of delivery or after service. Some dealers are lax at tightening the battery connections. Loose battery connections inhibit battery charging, and can cause low voltage to the Spyder components. If the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat) is loose (usually a result of someone trying to looosen it to hook something up), it can cause the same thing. Before I would rent a trailer again and tow the Spyder back to the dealer, I would check the connections at the battery and rear frame ground (Do not try to loosen it!), and thoroughly charge the battery. If the problems continue, I would contact the dealer and ask them to come and fetch the Spyder. If they set it up improperly, or sold it in an inoperable condition, they should foot the bill for picking it up and delivering it back to you...after they make ammends.

 

[jos]

Thank you my friends
I think you are all on the mark, especially:

------The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.---
---------------------
Indeed, the DPS error came up whilst touring at very low revs in town, on both occasions.
And...I have been running the spyder at far too low revs
Sounds like the problem, easy fix!
Thanks again guys, magic!
Jos

 

[mrb]

Thank you my friends
I think you are all on the mark, especially:

------The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.---
---------------------
Indeed, the DPS error came up whilst touring at very low revs in town, on both occasions.
And...I have been running the spyder at far too low revs
Sounds like the problem, easy fix!
Thanks again guys, magic!
Jos

Hi Jos and welcome. I keep a battery minder on my RS all the time. I have had the Spyder for 4 years now and just replaced the battery as a matter of course- previous experience has shown that after 3-4 years you are pretty much on borrowed time and I did not want to be stranded. I have on my web site (http://www.spyderryders.net.au ) some info that may assist and one thing, not necessarily associated with your issue is as follows- "Be aware that in some instances after you do an oil change the Spyder will go into "limp home mode". The easy fix is reported just to ride around the block. Usually reving the motor over 3,000 will clear it and all is fine. One unfortunate new owner in the US trailered the Spyder back to the dealer (aparently a new and inexperienced one) where they blamed it on a "non genuine" oil filter and presented them with a huge bill. "

 

[jos]

Hi
Checked the battery terminals, all OK. Got a charger, charged and after 1/2 hour charger went into maintaining mode, all seems OK. Took the 2CO out again, and when driving in town, CHECK ENGINE !...slow limp mode ride home.
Got trailer, drove to dealer, got the codes out, tech scratched his head, reinstalled software, went for test drive, all seems fine, no clue and back home with spyder on trailer it was
Now...it could be the Big Red was right, old chap! as all CHECK ENGINE and DPS Faults appeared during town riding, not on the freeways and highways maybe.....maybe ...I was riding the brake whilst having some throttle open during town driving start/stops.
Will pay attention to the behaviour of my right foot and the coordination of my right dexterities over the next few days and report back...interesting !

 

[warp10]

I ride with the edge of my shoe just under the the outside edge of the brake pedal. this way the only pressure is up and I always know where the brake pedal is.