New Rt Minor issues

[flybuddy]

Picked up my new RT on Monday. Dealer was 160 miles away. While riding back the ride felt squirrelly. About halfway back I checked tire pressures and they were on the low side. 14, 13 in front and 24 in back (remember this was VERY hot).
When I got home I adjusted the front shocks from setting 3 to 4 and I checked rear air pressure (manual airbag)--it was zero. I pumped up to 30 and rechecked a few times--it's holding air.
Today I checked the oil level after a ride and it was about 2/3s of a quart on the high side. Bike has about 300 miles on it.
Questions:
*many air systems are not meant to be ridden/driven with zero pressure (tears the bag)--any issues like that with Spyders?
*Should I be checking air filter and spark plugs for oil?
Yes, I did email the service mgr at the dealer--no response
Yes, the ride is better now
thx Tom/Fort Myers

 

[Arr MiHardies]

Picked up my new RT on Monday. Dealer was 160 miles away. While riding back the ride felt squirrelly. About halfway back I checked tire pressures and they were on the low side. 14, 13 in front and 24 in back (remember this was VERY hot).
When I got home I adjusted the front shocks from setting 3 to 4 and I checked rear air pressure (manual airbag)--it was zero. I pumped up to 30 and rechecked a few times--it's holding air.
Today I checked the oil level after a ride and it was about 2/3s of a quart on the high side. Bike has about 300 miles on it.
Questions:
*many air systems are not meant to be ridden/driven with zero pressure (tears the bag)--any issues like that with Spyders?
*Should I be checking air filter and spark plugs for oil?
Yes, I did email the service mgr at the dealer--no response
Yes, the ride is better now
thx Tom/Fort Myers

The front tires on the Spyder generally have pretty low pressure. I think the manual suggest 13-15 psi. Its not uncommon for shops to forget to pump up the rear shock. Also not uncommon for the bag to have a leak. Another possibility is the Schrader valve may need tightening if you have a slow leak. This was the case on my Spyder.

 

[NancysToy]

Minimum air pressure on the airbag is supposed to be 10 psi. I doubt your trip home hurt yours, however.

Recommended front tire pressure for the Spyder is 13-15 psi (cold). IMO, this is too low. The minimum marked on the sidewall is 15 psi. Manufacturers seldom mark this, and when it is stated it is usually for safety reasons. Most RT owners run 17-20 up front and 24-30 rear. I run 18/25. Play around to see what suits you best.

What you have seen are common problems, but are indicative of a dealership that needs to be watched closely. They may or may not be competent. The Spyder tech may not have done all the prep work.

 

[MarkLawson]

If you haven't already, read your owner's manual concerning the proper way to check the oil level. If you did it as you would most every other vehicle, then you did it wrong and will not get a correct level reading.

 

[JCSMOKE]

:congrats: On the Spyder, Nancy'stoy, Marklawson,and Arr Miharies are right on the money, check the manual, and live by it. As for the tire pressure, I usually run 16 lbs front and upper 20's rear. Remember to ride the bike like an ATV not a motorcycle, that could help with the squirly ride a bit too, most all Ryder's can steer just fine with 1 finger on each handle. Have fun!

 

[flybuddy]

Thx for the replies, just for some clarification..The tire pressures were taken after 2 hours of riding in 90 degree weather, they would have read approx 15% high. The reality was that the cold pressures (where tires are supposed to be checked) were probably about 10 to 11 psi front and 20 or less in the rear. There was no air in the rear bag.
Also, I'm familiar with dry sumps and the main issue is that many get overfilled because when checked cold the oil will have leaked back into the engine and it will look like the oil tank is low. I checked mine immediately after a ride and it was the better part of a quart high. This extra oil will usually find its way into the induction system (air filter) and then into the intake valves fouling the plugs.
Quite simply the ball was dropped by the dealer and they don't seem to care so the next poor buyer may very well have issues.

 

[EZ Ed]

Minor problems

Your situation sounds way too familiar. We picked up our RT and it stalled all the way home 50 ish miles. Dealer blamed us for putting "extra " oil in the unit but eventually said it was the "other" dealer they dealer traded it with. We had several other problems with it and called BRP who suggested we find a gold or platinum dealer. As many people have said, dealer set up is the important thing. We will be buying a second RT but not from Kxxxxxxxx.

 

[gypsy_100]

I checked mine immediately after a ride and it was the better part of a quart high. This extra oil will usually find its way into the induction system (air filter) and then into the intake valves fouling the plugs.

I'm hoping you siphoned the excess oil out of the tank. I did that when mine was only about 1/3 qt over full. My experience with the RT's airbox is that the inside of the airbox got covered with oil and eventually seeped out the seam about halfway up the airbox. Even though there is a gasket in there, it still seeped out and eventually dripped off the bottom. Noticed it at about 5K miles. The only time it was overfull was the first couple hundred miles after initial delivery (1/3 qt) and then maybe a hundred miles after the 600-mile service (about 1/10 qt overfull). I corrected it in both cases. For the next few thousand I kept it just under the max but after cleaning the airbox, I now keep it at the halfway mark. Several people here suggested that. Hope that helps.

No oil got to the filter. The way the box is designed, the oil tends to settle in the bottom of the box and up on the ledge around the throttle intakes. In my case, none worked its way forward to the filter. If you want, you can check the filter easily -- just follow the instructions in the owner's manual. Getting the top half of the airbox off is a time-consuming project. Not difficult but takes a lot of time, including thorough cleaning of the box. I don't plan to open mine again for another 5K or until I see some seepage. Hopefully it'll remain clean with the lower oil levels.

 

[flybuddy]

I'm hoping you siphoned the excess oil out of the tank. I did that when mine was only about 1/3 qt over full. My experience with the RT's airbox is that the inside of the airbox got covered with oil and eventually seeped out the seam about halfway up the airbox. Even though there is a gasket in there, it still seeped out and eventually dripped off the bottom. Noticed it at about 5K miles. The only time it was overfull was the first couple hundred miles after initial delivery (1/3 qt) and then maybe a hundred miles after the 600-mile service (about 1/10 qt overfull). I corrected it in both cases. For the next few thousand I kept it just under the max but after cleaning the airbox, I now keep it at the halfway mark. Several people here suggested that. Hope that helps.

No oil got to the filter. The way the box is designed, the oil tends to settle in the bottom of the box and up on the ledge around the throttle intakes. In my case, none worked its way forward to the filter. If you want, you can check the filter easily -- just follow the instructions in the owner's manual. Getting the top half of the airbox off is a time-consuming project. Not difficult but takes a lot of time, including thorough cleaning of the box. I don't plan to open mine again for another 5K or until I see some seepage. Hopefully it'll remain clean with the lower oil levels.

Yup, I siphoned it out. Unfortunately I just got back from a ride and it was surging a little. I'm going to pull the cover and check the airbox when it cools down.

Update....Pulled the side covers and pulled the air cleaner out. It was easier than I thought, a lot easier than a Goldwing!. Anyway, it was clean--no oil. I might wrap exhaust while I got the cover off.

 

[flybuddy]

Your situation sounds way too familiar. We picked up our RT and it stalled all the way home 50 ish miles. Dealer blamed us for putting "extra " oil in the unit but eventually said it was the "other" dealer they dealer traded it with. We had several other problems with it and called BRP who suggested we find a gold or platinum dealer. As many people have said, dealer set up is the important thing. We will be buying a second RT but not from Kxxxxxxxx.

How do you find a gold or platinum dealer?? I don't see any reference to them on BRP site or google??

 

[EZ Ed]

Gold or Platinum dealer

How do you find a gold or platinum dealer?? I don't see any reference to them on BRP site or google??

I simply asked the dealers if they were. According to one gold dealer here is the importance. The gold dealer and platinum dealer get 100% of MSRP on all warranty replacement parts and free shipping. They also get paid more than their labor rate for warranty work. Of course they need to have more and higher trained techs. Non gold dealers get something like 70% of MSRP on warrenty parts, a much lower labor rate and have to pay the shipping costs. In Florida I know that Barney's is a platinum dealer because BRP "suggested" that I go there as it was closeby to our Bartow Fl home. In Binghamton, Doug's in Cortland NY is. Gold dealer. As of yet I have not had any service work done by either dealer yet. Doug's provided me with so much EXCELLENT information about the RT, service issues and fixes that I can do myself. Ask around. Do not be confused by a dealer being the " largest dealer in the state, country". Time and time again the boards have stressed set up and service. My next RT will be from a SERVICE dealer not a selling dealer

 

[EZ Ed]

Gold or Platinum dealer

How do you find a gold or platinum dealer?? I don't see any reference to them on BRP site or google??

I simply asked the dealers if they were. According to one gold dealer here is the importance. The gold dealer and platinum dealer get 100% of MSRP on all warranty replacement parts and free shipping. They also get paid more than their labor rate for warranty work. Of course they need to have more and higher trained techs. Non gold dealers get something like 70% of MSRP on warrenty parts, a much lower labor rate and have to pay the shipping costs. In Florida I know that Barney's is a platinum dealer because BRP "suggested" that I go there as it was closeby to our Bartow Fl home. In Binghamton, Doug's in Cortland NY is. Gold dealer. As of yet I have not had any service work done by either dealer yet. Doug's provided me with so much EXCELLENT information about the RT, service issues and fixes that I can do myself. Ask around. Do not be confused by a dealer being the " largest dealer in the state, country". Time and time again the boards have stressed set up and service. My next RT will be from a SERVICE dealer not a selling dealer

 

[flybuddy]

Thx for the heads up, Barneys is possible for me...Tom/Fort Myers