Hi All.. after my first rendition of a hand brake (based loosely on the ISCI style) I wasn't happy with the pressure it was generating and required a lot of hand pressure. Looking at the design there was a lot of mechanical disadvantage in the mechanism and a pile of flex due to the materials and length of suport arms, even with bracing.
I thought that since the master cylinder (Suzuki M109R) had lots of hydraulic capacity that I could do away with the mechanism and just use a cylinder to directly actuate the existing brake arm. I started out with a Dorman clutch cylinder with a 3/4 bore since the master also has a 3/4 bore. The mount is attached to the Aluminum brake guard thats already on my 2008 GS (there are 2 holes in the back of the guard that are a perfect size to run a 5/16-18 tap through them (theres room to do this without taking anything off, just use a wrench on the tap- make sure its straight and if you can use a bottoming tap to finish the tapped holes to get as many threads as you can.
at the back of the Aluminum block that I bolted to the Guard are 2x3/8" posts that the Dorman cylinder is attached to. A strut goes from the front post to a 10mm bolt thats holding a bracket at the back of the existing brake pivot mechanism (this adds rigidity to stop flex).
There's lots of motion from the new cylinder to fully actuate the existing arm with room to spare.
We will see come spring if it stops better than the old version.. It should as theres no mechanical losses and its direct acting!
Cheers BTW The Dorman cylinder I used was CS650035 $27 on Amazon
Dave
Youtube video https://youtu.be/dmWu3J-ByNA
I thought that since the master cylinder (Suzuki M109R) had lots of hydraulic capacity that I could do away with the mechanism and just use a cylinder to directly actuate the existing brake arm. I started out with a Dorman clutch cylinder with a 3/4 bore since the master also has a 3/4 bore. The mount is attached to the Aluminum brake guard thats already on my 2008 GS (there are 2 holes in the back of the guard that are a perfect size to run a 5/16-18 tap through them (theres room to do this without taking anything off, just use a wrench on the tap- make sure its straight and if you can use a bottoming tap to finish the tapped holes to get as many threads as you can.
at the back of the Aluminum block that I bolted to the Guard are 2x3/8" posts that the Dorman cylinder is attached to. A strut goes from the front post to a 10mm bolt thats holding a bracket at the back of the existing brake pivot mechanism (this adds rigidity to stop flex).
There's lots of motion from the new cylinder to fully actuate the existing arm with room to spare.
We will see come spring if it stops better than the old version.. It should as theres no mechanical losses and its direct acting!
Cheers BTW The Dorman cylinder I used was CS650035 $27 on Amazon
Dave
Youtube video https://youtu.be/dmWu3J-ByNA
