New front brake pads

[2013REDRTS]

I'm installing a set of EBC front pads on after work today. I got the #FA630HH from Ebay. Fronts are starting to make a little noise so I decided to just change them out. Seems to be straight forward replacement.

 

[SPYD3R]

CLIPS

very easy job....
i'll be doing mine in a couple weeks, just before we head off to Deadwood...
during disassembly, be careful of the little clips that hold the rod in place, they seem to grow wings and fly off to never-never-land...
OH, and remove the cover on the reservoir before you try to squeeze the calipers...
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[2013REDRTS]

I hope it goes as easy it it looks. I would think the combination of the EBC pads with the Brembos this thing should stop on a dime, not that it stops bad now. hyea:

 

[billybovine]

Check your rear brake pads. Normally they need to change twice as often as the front.

 

[Hypurone]

OH, and remove the cover on the reservoir before you try to squeeze the calipers...

To expand on this a bit. If you have added fluid to the reservoir at any point (it will drop as the pads wear and the pistons move farther out in their bores) be sure to draw off some of the fluid to avoid overflow! If you don't have the vacuum tool for this, a turkey baster works. There are also syringe type devices at auto parts stores for this.

 

[BajaRon]

Check your rear brake pads. Normally they need to change twice as often as the front.

True for the 2008-2012 Spyders. But not usually true for the 2013-2018 Spyders. The early Spyders had a great deal of bias on braking for the rear tire. I think the engineers felt that getting the rear tire to brake first and release last would help stabilize the Spyder during braking. But it appears that this bias has been reduced quite a bit as most of the later design appear to wear the pads at a much more even rate.

 

[billybovine]

True for the 2008-2012 Spyders. But not usually true for the 2013-2018 Spyders. The early Spyders had a great deal of bias on braking for the rear tire. I think the engineers felt that getting the rear tire to brake first and release last would help stabilize the Spyder during braking. But it appears that this bias has been reduced quite a bit as most of the later design appear to wear the pads at a much more even rate.

My 2013 did.

 

[oldguyinTX]

My only question to you is, why would you not buy them from BajaRon, a site sponsor? He has great prices and great service.

 

[nhoj]

My only question to you is, why would you not buy them from BajaRon, a site sponsor? He has great prices and great service.

Maybe he did. Ron sells on eBay too.

 

[Chupaca]

Someday...

Will have to do mine someday...42,000 miles the rears did go quicker but even when I changed them at 33,000 they were not at the limit. .:dontknow:

 

[oldguyinTX]

Maybe he did. Ron sells on eBay too.

You are right, I forgot about that. I always just deal with Ron directly.

 

[Rookiespyder]

Check your rear brake pads. Normally they need to change twice as often as the front.

Hello as a fellow Ontarion how many km do you put on before you change your brake pads.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

If you haven't changed them yet take note. You do not need to remove the calipers. The pads will slip out the back of the calipers. Just use a screwdriver or something similar to push the pads back to get the pistons all way back in. Take the rod and spring out, slip out the old, slip in the new, replace spring and rod, and you're done in about 10 minutes!

 

[billybovine]

Hello as a fellow Ontarion how many km do you put on before you change your brake pads.

The only pads that I changed where on my 2013 ST. Same brembo brakes. If I remember correctly I did that at about 45,000 kms. The inside pad on the rear. The one that's hard to see. Was just starting to have metal on metal. So it should have been done sooner. You experience may vary, do to how you drive.

 

[UtahPete]

If you haven't changed them yet take note. You do not need to remove the calipers. The pads will slip out the back of the calipers. Just use a screwdriver or something similar to push the pads back to get the pistons all way back in. Take the rod and spring out, slip out the old, slip in the new, replace spring and rod, and you're done in about 10 minutes!

That's good to know. Which pads did you go with and do you know what the difference might be between the OEMs and EBC's (the dealer was asking me)?

Thanks.

 

[UtahPete]

That's good to know. Which pads did you go with and do you know what the difference might be between the OEMs and EBC's (the dealer was asking me)?

Thanks.

Bump

 

[BajaRon]

That's good to know. Which pads did you go with and do you know what the difference might be between the OEMs and EBC's (the dealer was asking me)?

Thanks.

The OEM are an Organic pad. Usually Kevlar. You will see pad sets touted as 'KEVLAR' on eBay and Amazon, etc., which makes them sound awesome! But you are getting OEM quality at best. And usually not that good unless they are listed as BRP pads.

The best braking material is Semi-Metallic. This version has steel particles embedded into the resin compound. They stop the best and are very resistant to fade. But they are very hard on the rotor, tend to make a lot of noise, and leave a lot of brake dust that will rust because of the steel.

My Premier Addition Spyder came with Semi-Metallic pads as did all the early Spyders. They stopped incredibly well even with the cheesy Chinese calipers. But the negative factors listed above did them in and BRP started putting Organic pads on later models.

The quest has been to come up with a pad that works as well as the Semi-Metallic without all the negatives. The OEM Organic pads are inexpensive, are very easy on the rotors, usually don't make any noise (emphases in the 'Usually'), create very little brake dust which will not discolor your wheels and is relatively easy to wash off. But they wear quickly, do not stop nearly as well, and will fade much more quickly than Semi-Metallic pads.

EBC developed the Fully Sintered pads for racing. They replaced the steel component with a copper alloy. These stop nearly as well as Semi-Metallic, are a bit more fade resistant, create a bit more dust than Organic but much less then Semi-Metallic. The brake dust will not rust or discolor the wheels, but can be a bit more difficult (though not hard) to remove than organic dust. They wear much better than organic but not quite as well as Semi-Metallic. They are much easier on the rotors than Semi-Metallic, they last longer than the OEM Organic (and nearly as long as the Semi-Metallic), and they are as quiet as the OEM Organic pads.

There is much more to a brake pad than most people realize. And you never know when you will need an exceptional brake pad.

 

[DGoebel]

I've just given Ron's front EBC pads and rotors a good 4,800 mile test and am very happy with the stopping power, wet stopping power, and haven't noticed any issues with brake dust so far.
Rode up to Canada, down to Florida, Up part of the Cherohala Skyway, down the Tail of the Dragon (lot's of braking there), and up and down the Devil's Triangle LOT'S of HARD braking there. and Damn those EBC pads and rotors stop great!

 

[UtahPete]

The OEM are an Organic pad. Usually Kevlar. You will see pad sets touted as 'KEVLAR' on eBay and Amazon, etc., which makes them sound awesome! But you are getting OEM quality at best. And usually not that good unless they are listed as BRP pads.

The best braking material is Semi-Metallic. This version has steel particles embedded into the resin compound. They stop the best and are most resistant to fade. But they are very hard on the rotor, tend to make a lot of noise, and leave a lot of brake dust that will rust because of the steel.

My Premier Addition Spyder came with Semi-Metallic pads as did all the early Spyders. They stopped incredibly well even with the cheesy Chinese calipers. But the negative factors listed above did them in and BRP started putting Organic pads on later models.

The quest has been to come up with a pad that works as well as the Semi-Metallic without all the negatives. The OEM Organic pads are inexpensive, are very easy on the rotors, usually don't make any noise (emphases in the 'Usually'), create very little brake dust which will not discolor your wheels and is relatively easy to wash off. But they wear quickly, do not stop nearly as well, and will fade much more quickly than Semi-Metallic pads.

EBC developed the Fully Sintered pads for racing. They replaced the steel component with a copper alloy. These stop nearly as well as Semi-Metallic, are a bit more fade resistant, create a bit more dust than Organic but much less then Semi-Metallic. The brake dust will not rust or discolor the wheels, but can be a bit more difficult (though not hard) to remove than organic dust. They wear much better than organic but not quite as well as Semi-Metallic. They are much easier on the rotors than Semi-Metallic, they last longer than the OEM Organic (and nearly as long as the Semi-Metallic), and they are as quiet as the OEM Organic pads.

There is much more to a brake pad than most people realize. And you never know when you will need an exceptional brake pad.

Fantastic. Thanks Ron.

 

[papanorm]

I installed Ron’s pads recently and I am very impressed with the new pads. The OEM’s seemed to not stop as well as time and miles went on.