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Negotiating Price on 2020 RTL

giantjas

New member
Looking for tips on negotiating price on a new 2020 RTL. I am a first time buyer and I am in the middle of negotiations and feel out of my element. I have read that there is a huge difference in negotiating prices on Spyders compared to cars as the markup is not as extreme and the dealers wiggle room is very limited. I have researched online and it appears that a buyer may do better on negotiating discounts on upgrades and accessories rather than MSRP. Also, I am getting quoted to pay a set up fee of $885 and a freight fee of $1435. Any advice would be appreciated. On a side note, I am soooooo pumped to finally pull the trigger on this purchase and get on the road! Thank you in advance.
 
As an early adopter of a milestone model year I would expect you will see no price breaks. There is no incentive for the dealer who probably wont see one on the floor til next month. I’m surprised Can-Am gives a free year of warranty for a preorder by Jan 31. That’s probably worth $300-600 which is significant. If you’ve decided you are going to be a launch buyer then I would make sure you pull the trigger before the end of the month. You might catch a break on the labor $ they will charge you to install accessories.
 
SPYDER Price

:coffee: A better deal could be made on a leftover 2019. If this is an option for you. Good Luck on your Mission....:thumbup:
 
California dealers are known for not being a state that typically negotiates well. Whatever you do settle on, ensure it is 100% in writing and signed by the dealership sales manager.

Personally, those setup and transportation fees seem inflated a bit, but I could be wrong. The one possible amount you do know is MSRP based off Can Ams website.

It is very cool you are buying a new machine. We got a very early 2014, when the 1330 engine was first released. At that time, Can Am was offering 2 years warranty and 2 additional years warranty no charge. So the added 1 year is understandable.

I suspect it is very unlikely your dealer will wiggle much on their MSRP, the setup and transportation fees and other fees they will tack on. That is easy money for them and they cry loudly about it.

Since the 2020 is kind of a modular accessory machine, you NEED TO KNOW exactly what accessories you want. Also, you will likely want even more warranty. If getting the BEST warranty in addition to those three years, you might get two additional years. Hold the accessories card and warranty card close and play them when in the finance office. When the dealership refuses to play, get up and walk away. Dealing with most salesman and the sales manager is simply a game they play. Kind of accept the deal and let the sales manager think he won. Then drop the bomb when in the finance office. You can not be emotional, you can not be desperate to own the vehicle etc.

With no unit on the floor, negotiations is more tricky. If the Spyder is there on their floor plan, they want it sold. My own opinion in this situation you presented, where you live, your inexperience, and new model not on the floor, you will likely pay 20% more than if the Spyder is at the dealer for a month.
 
Well this fees may seem inflated, but labor prices here in California are high! Make sure that you shop around. If you have not already, take a trip over to Elk Grove Power Sports. Ask for Jim ( Tell him Larry and Annette Sent You) They are the largest Spyder dealer in the Western YSA and if nothing you may get a better offer that you can take to say Spirit Motorcycles in San Jose, or any other dealer. Check out the Dealer in Santa Rosa as well. It can never hurt to get competitive bids on something like this.
 
As far as the method I use to buy new it requires a bit of patience. If you have to have it now, get out your checkbook and pay. Otherwise, go to all the dealers both in-state and in the surrounding states and get an "Out the Door" price. This is how you compare apples to apples. Start a spreadsheet or log and document the numbers. Work with Spyders that are actually in stock. Call once each month and see if the price has changed. As I said, anxiousness costs money. I paid slightly too much for my 2018 Spyder because I wanted it and it was closer to home. It was still a great deal, but I could have save about $1200 more by travelling farther (750 miles) to get one. Shipping one in would have ate the savings, so I pulled the trigger. I bought a truck using this method and had several of the other dealers selling the exact same truck tell me "They can't sell it for that". Now that was a great deal. Things I found out while using this method: Taxes and out of state purchases. Make sure you account for taxes, either paid or not paid, and how your state handles them. I found out that Florida had some kind of deal where I had to pay taxes that wouldn't be recouped in my state. No good. Most out of state purchases don't take taxes. Service: Definitely something worth looking at. One dealer close to me said they wouldn't work on a Spyder that wasn't purchased at their store. If you purchase from farther away, except in the very rarest of dealerships, you can at very least expect to be put to the back of the line for service. That in itself is something that I'd strongly consider unless you're near one of those truly superior dealerships.

As an edit- Get your options at the time of purchase. Handlebars, backrests, wheels, all can be much cheaper at time of purchase. Often they are sold at cost, or lower cost with reduced labor to sweeten the deal. Take that into account.
 
First time buyer in the North East that sealed the deal 2 weeks ago on a new 2020 RT Limited to be delivered sometime in February.

I can say there is definitely some wiggle room in pricing. I was able to negotiate the price down significantly, as well as a discount on OEM accessories. I also had a trade in which complicated things a bit. If I didn't have the trade I could have gotten another 1k off the price of the machine.
 
As far as the method I use to buy new it requires a bit of patience. If you have to have it now, get out your checkbook and pay. Otherwise, go to all the dealers both in-state and in the surrounding states and get an "Out the Door" price. This is how you compare apples to apples. Start a spreadsheet or log and document the numbers. Work with Spyders that are actually in stock. Call once each month and see if the price has changed. As I said, anxiousness costs money. I paid slightly too much for my 2018 Spyder because I wanted it and it was closer to home. It was still a great deal, but I could have save about $1200 more by travelling farther (750 miles) to get one. Shipping one in would have ate the savings, so I pulled the trigger. I bought a truck using this method and had several of the other dealers selling the exact same truck tell me "They can't sell it for that". Now that was a great deal. Things I found out while using this method: Taxes and out of state purchases. Make sure you account for taxes, either paid or not paid, and how your state handles them. I found out that Florida had some kind of deal where I had to pay taxes that wouldn't be recouped in my state. No good. Most out of state purchases don't take taxes. Service: Definitely something worth looking at. One dealer close to me said they wouldn't work on a Spyder that wasn't purchased at their store. If you purchase from farther away, except in the very rarest of dealerships, you can at very least expect to be put to the back of the line for service. That in itself is something that I'd strongly consider unless you're near one of those truly superior dealerships.

As an edit- Get your options at the time of purchase. Handlebars, backrests, wheels, all can be much cheaper at time of purchase. Often they are sold at cost, or lower cost with reduced labor to sweeten the deal. Take that into account.

California won't register a New Spyder bought out-of-state and shipped or driven into Calif. to be registered there …) this law does not apply to used Spyders with over 7000 mi. )… this has come up in other discussions here ….. it sucks - but we are talking about Calif. ( only - as far as I know ) …… but I agree with the rest of what you said …. Mike :ohyea:
 
The set up and shipping fees are negotiable. I have never paid either on any of the six spyders that I have purchased. Other items that are negotiable: trade in, accessories, installation of accessories, document fees, and of course MSRP.

The "out the door" price is what counts.

It does not sound like your current dealer is a good one. They are giving you the shaft from the get go. $2350 set up and freight from the get go is a red flag to me. That's a nice add on for the dealer.

The song and dance about no margin for the dealers to work with because they are Spyders also makes my BS meter top out. You can do much better.

You need to talk with some other dealers. AND...there are MANY good deals on 18 and 19's that are new. The 19's are the best deals. 18's were a couple K higher than the 19's and some dealers are still trying to recoup that $2K on the 18's.

Been there and done that, since I just bought a new F3L (2019) in December.

Good deals can be found. Read some other threads about new purchases. iMotorsports (a SL sponsor) is a good place to start.

I note you are from CA. That does change some stuff about buying from out of state. Used is a possible consideration as mentioned by BlueKnight.

WARNING, WARNING, WARNING...YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. NOT ALL DEALERS OPERATE THE SAME. :bowdown:
 
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I would tend to agree that for the 2020, you're going to be hard pressed to get much of a break. But it still pays to try. They may, at least, throw you a bone on setup or transportation fees.

I would say shopping around would be your best way to go. Don't forget the on-line sellers. They are most likely to give you a better deal.

Good Luck!
 
I agree with AR Traveler and others.
You'll be hard pressed with getting the deal of the century as an early adopter.
But all those fees for set-up and shipping are just ridiculous.
I bought my 2020 RTlimited back in September.
OK, OK, I admit it, I've never been good with delayed gratification.
I got an OK deal. A percentage off of MSRP. No shipping or setup fees. The additional year on the warranty.
I got the same percentage off of the few OEM accessories I'm including.
And there is no installation fee for the same OEM accessories.
I'm not doing as well on my 2014 trade in as I might if I sell separately, but BRP just came out with an additional $1000 promotion when you trade in an older Spyder.
I suppose I could get a better deal if I wait until September, but then I won't have the pleasure of riding the new Spyder all year.
I'm happy with the deal I have.
Now I'm expecting delivery in February. I just hope it's not 8° when it comes in.
 
Giantjas, I too have ordered a ‘20 RT Limited. My deal had a couple of trades, but the quoted setup (about $835) and shipping ($1135) seemed high, so I offered him less and he accepted. Now, if I only knew when it would show up!
 
SHORT AND TO THE POINT........
Always bargain for the complete package. That includes everything that makes up the bottom line.
If a trade is involved, the ONLY $ figure that counts is the cash difference = how much comes out of your pocket.
 
I'd have to sit on a 2020 before falling back to the 2019. Those long floorboards, repostioned footbrake, and round handlebars are some fantastic selling points.
 
Joe, I hope your not directing this at the OP , because He won't be allowed to register it in …… California …… Mike :ohyea:
 
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IMHO. RUN, don't walk away from that dealer! :doorag: Over $2300 F+A. :banghead: I bought a 2014 RTS when they first came out. No F+A and $2250 off retail. nojoke That dealer will laugh all the way to the bank. Ask him if he has a bridge to sell you also. Shop around. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
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