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Need TST 61Y014S05 (Belt Tension)
- Thread starter JimboRTS
- Start date
Jeriatric
Thinks out loud
Not the TST but may be helpful? Post #27
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?117182-belt-tension/page2
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?117182-belt-tension/page2
h0gr1der
New member
Good luck with that. I've seen a screen capture of this TSB available on this site, but folks guard their secrets closely and won't share. From what I understand, dealers only get to see/print the TSB's, and being mere mortals we're not privy to them.
I'm waiting for my bike to come out of the shop, 3000 mile maintenance (Done at 2000 miles because of time and distance), to verify that regardless of customer request the belt tension will be set to some stupid high number because of "specifications". I'll shout out on that. They did say they use the sonic tester.
Here is the screenshot;
I'm waiting for my bike to come out of the shop, 3000 mile maintenance (Done at 2000 miles because of time and distance), to verify that regardless of customer request the belt tension will be set to some stupid high number because of "specifications". I'll shout out on that. They did say they use the sonic tester.
Here is the screenshot;
Chupaca
New member
Little checking.....
I'm not sure about the chart above.... I have an RS and the shop manual has the belt tension at 450N+/- 150N. which is about 101lbs. I know there have been changes to the tension along the way and I run mine at 160lbs on the krikit. There were issues with wheel bearings in the early years but I would check with someone who has a shop manual for your model....:thumbup:
I'm not sure about the chart above.... I have an RS and the shop manual has the belt tension at 450N+/- 150N. which is about 101lbs. I know there have been changes to the tension along the way and I run mine at 160lbs on the krikit. There were issues with wheel bearings in the early years but I would check with someone who has a shop manual for your model....:thumbup:
Jeriatric
Thinks out loud
See post #8 - then perhaps DM Ron to see if he's aware of any changes since he posted the info.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...rikit-II-Belt-Tension-Gauges&highlight=kirkit
Spyderlass
New member
The part of that document that states different folk feel vibrations differently sounds like an excuse for some other issue. We've had 4 RT's and only one of them has had the vibration, the other 3 gave no sense whatsoever of a vibration. Something energises the belt on some Spyders and not on others. I would put money on it being an engine issue, either an out of balance force within the engine or an engine mounting issue where a fairly minor engine vibration is transferred to the belt to energise it. The belt won't just vibrate on its own, it has to receive energy from somewhere.
The RT which has the vibration is also noticeably buzzy generally.
The RT which has the vibration is also noticeably buzzy generally.
h0gr1der
New member
Mr. Jim,
Your unit converter is messed up. 630 Newtons is equal to 141.6 Ft/Lbs of force.
h0gr1der
New member
Bike lifted with rear suspension at full travel, meaning don't lift it at the bottom of the rear shock, lift it at the rear of the frame. A lot of folks have adopted 160-180 lbs of tension as measured by the Krikit II with the bike on the ground. I'm running my belt at around 150 Lbs, on the ground, with my Roadster Renovations vibration dampener on the belt (adds around 8-10 lbs). I believe my in the air setting was around 110-115 lbs to get this on the ground measurement. The tension increases as the bike sits down on it's suspension.
PMK
Active member
Years ago, I adopted the specs in the bulletin. Other local riders have also after I reported essentially no vibrations 90% of the time.
On our RTS, jacked under the frame so wheel is at full droop. Use the left side adjuster to establish belt tension at 140 pounds force or lbf, (this is different than a torque wrench setting of ftlb). Use the right side adjuster to align and track the belt. Once tension is set, make no other adjustments to the left side adjuster.
I suggest accomplishing this on a cool or cold belt and pulley in order to obtain a consistent setup anytime thereafter. While riding, the rear pulley will heat up and expand in diameter, altering tension setting slightly. Additionally, possibly the belt may vary when heated. Often belts will shrink slightly when heated. That said, best to accomplish prior to a ride.
We run no belt tensioner at all. Simply based on the KISS concept of one less item to fail unexpectedly AND no additional contact surface onto the belt.
Resetting the belt tension to 140 lbf certainly made the machine much more enjoyable on the highways.
As for the remark about this being a closely guarded secret here, probably not true. Can Am is the downfall of why bulletins are not released to the public, however, let me rephrase that, the consumer / owner is the reason Can Am does not release bulletins to the public. Having seen this before, the owners chat with their friends at breakfast, the owners convince the one owner all his woes are a cured by a certain service bulletin. That owner demands compliance with the bulletin for free and becomes relentless in pursuit of that. Hypothetically, the shop accomplishes the bulletin and the problem remains, from that point on it is a downward spiral of bad. Good shops know the bulletins, know the limits of the bulletins and will accomplish them on an as needed basis, not on a whim. Consider too, the technician and shop needs to get paid and if the bulletin accomplishment is declined the shop and tech worked for free.
On our RTS, jacked under the frame so wheel is at full droop. Use the left side adjuster to establish belt tension at 140 pounds force or lbf, (this is different than a torque wrench setting of ftlb). Use the right side adjuster to align and track the belt. Once tension is set, make no other adjustments to the left side adjuster.
I suggest accomplishing this on a cool or cold belt and pulley in order to obtain a consistent setup anytime thereafter. While riding, the rear pulley will heat up and expand in diameter, altering tension setting slightly. Additionally, possibly the belt may vary when heated. Often belts will shrink slightly when heated. That said, best to accomplish prior to a ride.
We run no belt tensioner at all. Simply based on the KISS concept of one less item to fail unexpectedly AND no additional contact surface onto the belt.
Resetting the belt tension to 140 lbf certainly made the machine much more enjoyable on the highways.
As for the remark about this being a closely guarded secret here, probably not true. Can Am is the downfall of why bulletins are not released to the public, however, let me rephrase that, the consumer / owner is the reason Can Am does not release bulletins to the public. Having seen this before, the owners chat with their friends at breakfast, the owners convince the one owner all his woes are a cured by a certain service bulletin. That owner demands compliance with the bulletin for free and becomes relentless in pursuit of that. Hypothetically, the shop accomplishes the bulletin and the problem remains, from that point on it is a downward spiral of bad. Good shops know the bulletins, know the limits of the bulletins and will accomplish them on an as needed basis, not on a whim. Consider too, the technician and shop needs to get paid and if the bulletin accomplishment is declined the shop and tech worked for free.
Spyderlass
New member
Yes, but there's a solution to all this, BRP should build them without issues, the development teams need to get their acts together. There is numerous small, easily rectified issues with Spyders which are not being addressed.
