Need help with sprocket bearing issue

[ArmyJoe]

I had a clanking noise coming from my spocket area, so I took it in for a warranty repair. The dealer said they heard nothing but "brake noise" and gave the Spyder back to me without troubleshooting further.

Following the directions here, I dropped my rear wheel and found the sprocket bearing (NSK 30BD40DF2) had a bit of side to side movement.

I took the wheel back into the dealer to show the tech. He didn't think the free play was a big deal, but I convinced him to pop out the bearing so I can replace it.

When he came back out, he commented that the bearing seemed fine, but the outside was shiny. In my head, I'm thinking the free play was the entire bearing moving and the entire bearing is spinning inside the sprocket.

I don't have another bearing to compare it to, but here it is:

In addition, I noticed after I cleaned the grease off the bearing and sprocket, that the bearing freely dropped into the sprocket and could be pulled out by hand. It was my understanding that these should be tight enough to require a blind hole puller.

This brings me to my questions:

Assuming the entire bearing was spinning, could metal have been removed from the inside of the hub?

If that throws off my tolerances, what can I do to ensure the new bearing doesn't also spin (besides replacing the sprocket)?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Lamonster]

I would say you need to replace the sprocket. That should be a press fit.

 

[canam9]

Sorry to hear.

Joe that sucks that your dealer and tech were not more helpful.:ani29:

 

[Longlegs]

Loctite makes some products for locking bearings in place. I think some may require heat to remove after applied. So read up on it first. I have used the bearing mount sticks from loctite, I think it was a green or blue one.

 

[docdoru]

I would say you need to replace the sprocket. That should be a press fit.

:agree: Happen to me @ 42K...:sour:

 

[dave01]

:agree: Happen to me @ 42K...:sour:

Wow Doc, I would have been pissed if it happened to me in the first 3 months of ryding.:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[docdoru]

Wow Doc, I would have been pissed if it happened to me in the first 3 months of ryding.:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Well, the "first" 42K, or 42K BC...:2thumbs:

 

[ArmyJoe]

I would say you need to replace the sprocket. That should be a press fit.

I was afraid of that. I'll get a new bearing and see if there's any difference.

If that doesn't work, I have nothing to lose by using the Loctite as recommended above.

 

[ArmyJoe]

:agree: Happen to me @ 42K...:sour:

Was that a warranty fix or did they blow it off to "normal wear and tear?" I'm at 11K miles and have a 5 year warranty.

 

[docdoru]

Was that a warranty fix or did they blow it off to "normal wear and tear?" I'm at 11K miles and have a 5 year warranty.

Warrranty. :thumbup:

 

[capt.jim]

I would put a micrometer to the inside of the drive hub and compare that to the outside diameter of the bearing, i would think there should be some noticable galling or spin marks in the hub. I would buy a new hub and be done with it seeing that it has already happened to others. I don't think i would go the locktite route and have to worry if it will hold up. Don't know why it would spin in the first place unless the aluminum is expanding due to heat, just enough to let it get started and make more heat due to the bearing spinning in the hub. I would get a new hub and then put a dab of locktite in there and let it dry.

 

[ArmyJoe]

The new bearing drops in just like the old one, so it looks like my sprocket is out of tolerance. I'm going to use the old bearing and some Loctite 680 to see if I can get the bike running without the clanking noise.

 

[Lamonster]

The new bearing drops in just like the old one, so it looks like my sprocket is out of tolerance. I'm going to use the old bearing and some Loctite 680 to see if I can get the bike running without the clanking noise.

If you're going to go that route then I would take a center punch and peen the race area of the sprocket. I've had good luck doing that on chrome rims with loose bearings.

Something like this

 

[ArmyJoe]

If you're going to go that route then I would take a center punch and peen the race area of the sprocket. I've had good luck doing that on chrome rims with loose bearings.

Something like this
<snip>

Too late, but thanks for the suggestion. The job's done and the clunking noise is gone. :2thumbs:

<sarcasm> Thanks once again to the BRP network of dealers for allowing me to fix my problems myself, even though it's under warranty. </sarcasm>