Need help setting up Juicebox **Pro**

[daveinva]

Good news, bad news.

Regular readers may recall I installed a Yoshi R-77 exhaust a month or so ago. Liked the sound, but the gurgling at low RPM and popping + outright backfiring on decel was too much.

Bought a Juicebox Pro; installed it this weekend. Hated the stock airbox-- what a mess!-- so after I had it out, I replaced it with the KewlMetal air intake.

After all the wiring and installation, I selected the Map #3 setting for the Juicebox Pro (according to Two Bros, setting 1 is for stock, setting 2 is for a single pipe, setting 3 is for a dual-pipe-- but I've also seen folks here with a single pipe and aftermarket air filter/setup use setting 3, so that's what I chose to start).

I only had about 20 minutes to take it out tonight, but I made the most of it, mixing some stop-and-go with 70 mph highway running.

The good news?

REALLY noticeable difference. The low RPM gurgling I got with the Yoshi was immediately gone. Even better, the entire RPM range felt like a continuous band, had no hesitation at any point in the throttle. Found myself INSTANTLY going faster than before-- probably not technically, but seriously, the Spyder just winds out with this set up, it's going to be *very* challenging to dodge those county and state "performance awards" now.

The sound is definitely different. Low RPM sounds a little clackety-- am I actually hearing the butterfly vanes opening and closing?-- but high RPM sounds quieter.

Seriously: this feels like a different bike now. I can't wait to try it out in the twisties, the power just feels like it's instantly "on" now whenever I want it. :thumbup:

The bad news? I still got a *little* popping on decel and downshifts. Not enough to alarm me, but enough to tell me that I need more than 20 minutes to gauge how serious this is.

So, my question for the wisdom of the forum: if after all that I *still* have some popping, what can/should I tweak with my JB settings? Should I try the #2 map? Or will I have to tweak the individual RPM ranges? Any suggestions? I did hook up the JB to my computer, I saw the ability to make custom maps, but I honestly don't have the first clue on where to start, which ones to decrease/increase/etc. And, like I said, the bike feels like it runs great *now*-- it's just the little bit of backfiring that I'd like to eliminate, if that's possible.

Thanks for any suggestions...

 

[kman]

I am running map 3 also with a Hindle exhaust and Evo race air filter.When I originally put it on all my backfiring stopped.Since then I have been playing with the settings and currently running with the closed loop setting at + 10% and the low,mid,high range settings at + 5%.

For what its worth if you study the maps you see that they have a standard 10% increase across the board up to 20% throttle and 6000 rpm range.I would bet most of us run our Spyders in this range 90% of the time.Hence the disclaimer(for racing applications only).The numbers don't change untill you get up to the higher throttle and rpm ranges for maps 2 and 3 and if I remember correctly map 2 seemed to have generally higher amounts of fuel added at the higher ranges:dontknow:.I also seem to remember with the original JB they said you may not want to get rid of all the backfiring,perhaps someone smarter than me could explain why.:chat:

Have you checked your exhaust gaskets for leaks?

 

[daveinva]

I am running map 3 also with a Hindle exhaust and Evo race air filter.When I originally put it on all my backfiring stopped.Since then I have been playing with the settings and currently running with the closed loop setting at + 10% and the low,mid,high range settings at + 5%.

For what its worth if you study the maps you see that they have a standard 10% increase across the board up to 20% throttle and 6000 rpm range.I would bet most of us run our Spyders in this range 90% of the time.Hence the disclaimer(for racing applications only).The numbers don't change untill you get up to the higher throttle and rpm ranges for maps 2 and 3 and if I remember correctly map 2 seemed to have generally higher amounts of fuel added at the higher ranges:dontknow:.I also seem to remember with the original JB they said you may not want to get rid of all the backfiring,perhaps someone smarter than me could explain why.:chat:

Have you checked your exhaust gaskets for leaks?

Thanks kman. I replaced my gaskets with the Goldwing ones about 4,000 miles ago, so I assume they're fine. I had no backfiring with the stock exhaust, the backfiring only showed up with the Yoshi. Like I said, I only ran it about 20 minutes last night, the situation seemed much improved, but there was still some popping there. I'm going to ride a couple hundred miles this weekend, give it a good shakedown.

 

[Machinegunner]

My wife and I each have the Juice Box PRO and Kewlmetal intake and Super Trapp 17in universal muffler with 16 discs. We are using map 5 from Powercommander. Maps 2 thru 4 are for the stock aircleaner. Maps 4 and 5 are for the green filter. We have no popping and they run fantastic. With the Kewlmetal filter you are too lean. Go to powercommander.com for the down load of maps 4,5,6. You won't be disappointed.

 

[daveinva]

My wife and I each have the Juice Box PRO and Kewlmetal intake and Super Trapp 17in universal muffler with 16 discs. We are using map 5 from Powercommander. Maps 2 thru 4 are for the stock aircleaner. Maps 4 and 5 are for the green filter. We have no popping and they run fantastic. With the Kewlmetal filter you are too lean. Go to powercommander.com for the down load of maps 4,5,6. You won't be disappointed.

That's a bold promise! :2thumbs: I'll try that out, thank you.

Again, just want to reiterate: the seat-of-the-pants verdict was clear, the trifecta of exhaust, fuel controller and air filter makes a DRAMATIC difference in how the Spyder moves. It kinda freaked me out, made me wonder if I done goofed and screwed something up-- "Is this *really* my bike??"

I'm happy already. If I can get the popping to go away, I'll be ecstatic. :yes:

 

[Dwanton]

I hate the dreaded POPPING !!! :banghead:

I tried TB map #2 with all the dials turned clockwise to the right with the best result , but still had a POP sometimes no matter what RPM I shifted at. Hardley ever when the bike was downshifting.

It is outright embarrasing in my opinion.

I just disconnected the battery and put in the power commander map #6 and took a rip up and down the road and seemed real strong and NO POP.

will wait and see -- I will have to try map#5 next -- then just will have to take everything off til I can afford to have it dyno tuned.

I am running the yoshi 77 with K&N filter .

good luck with yours -- hope you have better luck than me --

 

[daveinva]

Okay, rode like mad this morning out west of D.C., plenty of open rural roads to go WOT and test my JB settings.

The good news: I think the PCV Map #5 with Machinegunner's settings work 90% great. No problems at "around town" speeds, either accelerating *or* decelerating. :2thumbs:

The bad news: When going WOT I get popping on *upshifts* in the high RPM range (7000+ rpm).

Yeah, I know-- how often does one go WOT at that RPM? We're talking straight empty roads, full acceleration... upshifting to 2nd no popping, upshift to 3rd a little bit, upshift to 4th and 5th still occasional but definitely more popping.

So, does that suggest I'm running *too lean* or *too rich* in the upper RPM? It's something I can live with, but I also wouldn't mind getting rid of it if there's a way to address it (I messed a bit with the JB Pro upper range dial but I didn't want to go too crazy seeing as I have no idea whether an upshift popping on acceleration means lean or rich).

Man, I really wish I had access to a dyno. I feel like I'm THISCLOSE to perfection, but still so far. :gaah:

 

[Machinegunner]

Mine backfires sometimes on the first to second and second to third when the motor is cold. I have SE model. When it shifts the ignition is cut momentarily. I think the backfire is from when the ignition restarts it lights the rich mixture in the muffler. It did this with both the Hindle and now with the Super Trapp. It goes away when it warms up. You may be slightly rich on your top dial. 1st dial works approx. 0-3,000 rpm 2nd dial 3,000-6,000 rpm and 3rd dial 6,000-limiter.

 

[daveinva]

Mine backfires sometimes on the first to second and second to third when the motor is cold. I have SE model. When it shifts the ignition is cut momentarily. I think the backfire is from when the ignition restarts it lights the rich mixture in the muffler. It did this with both the Hindle and now with the Super Trapp. It goes away when it warms up. You may be slightly rich on your top dial. 1st dial works approx. 0-3,000 rpm 2nd dial 3,000-6,000 rpm and 3rd dial 6,000-limiter.

Thanks man. I'll lean out the top dial and see if that addresses my WOT issues.Bottom line: it's finicky, tweaking all these settings, BUT... the setup makes all the difference in the world, just a different bike with the trifecta of exhaust/intake/fuel controller. PLENTY of fun!