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Need help for electrical problem

MrBones

New member
My front cylinder is not getting juice. I have tried using the back wire on the front and nothing happens. Both plugs work in the rear spot and both wires when connected to the rear spot work. I believe it is in the part that the wires hook into that sends the juice to the wires. Damn can't think of the name for it. Its the connection box. Would like to know the name and where a good place to order it from is. Also is it a plug in thing or do I have to get it hooked up to Buds? Thanks for any help.
 
Coils...

the coils (two little black boxes) produce the juice and the rotor signals when...if your sure you can check cheapcycleparts.com (better price and stock) or dealer/brp. :thumbup:
 
When my back cyl. quit, it was the ECM that tell the coils to fire. had warranty and it was replaced,I don't know how to test coils to determine if they are working,did you pull codes? they might tell you where to look.
 
When my back cyl. quit, it was the ECM that tell the coils to fire. had warranty and it was replaced,I don't know how to test coils to determine if they are working,did you pull codes? they might tell you where to look.

If the price of the coils got a WOW - the price of an ECM is going to give Him a Holy *hit or worse :yikes: :lecturef_smilie: Just sayin... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Don't know what ECM is but hope its not what is wrong with mine. And yes Mike lots of bucks does make me bad. At 82 I just want to ride and enjoy like we all do. Its confusing that I know so little about my ride but can count on you guys helps alot. I still service and like now try to find whats wrong with it. So I do need the help thats given here.
Jack
 
Quick coil test. disconnect the plug from the coil. Pin two on the coil side is center. To the left is pin one and pin three is right. Using VOM meter, set to ohms. Ground side of VOM to pin two, positive or red cable to pin one, should read about 0.3 ohms. Next take red cable to pin three, should be the same, about 0.3 ohms. If you get those readings, chances are the coil is good. Normally you would do a secondary coil resistance test. You can't do that on the Spyder because of the integrated diode in the system. If you do replace the coil and it works, I would change the spark plugs and wires as well. A bad plug and poor resistance in the wire can cause coil failure.
 
Still only one cylinder working. As said in earlier post, I rechecked wires and plugs. Switched both to working cylinder and both fine. Then today I replaced the ignition coil but it still only has the rear one working. Pulled front plug and ran motor but no spark there. Then I ran the code and got a P0351 which is not on my list! My list goes from P0340 to P0359 Can someone tell me what it is? It's a 2010 RSS SE5. Thanks for any help you can give. Jack
 
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Still only one cylinder working.As said in other post rechecked wires and plugs. Switched both to working cylinder and both fine. Then today I replaced the ignition coil but it still only has the rear one working. Pulled front plug and ran motor but no spark there. Then I ran the code and got a P0351 which is not on my list! My list goes from P0340 to P0359 Can someone tell me what it is? Its a 2010 RSS SE5. Thanks for any help you can give. Jack

That is reported in Spyder Codes to be a camshaft position sensor fault.

That could be your problem. Bad sensor or bad connection between sensor and ECM
 
po351... ignition coil stage 1 short to 12v or ground... check fuse 8
Po340... camshaft position sensor...check the connection... looks like you may need BUDS

You have been doing some work checking this out... double check all your connections one may have been pulled loose... :thumbup:
 
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Most likely your ECM, that's what it was when my RS lost a cyl.
 
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Could be a bad wire in the harness. My bet is a bad ECM. There is a whole list of checks that can be done with a VOM. Best bet is BUDS
 
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