• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need Help ASAP Please!!!

vampyregirl

New member
Trying to do my oil change. I can't for the life of me get the dang oil drain plug un-done!!! It's like the dealership used loctite on it when they put it back from the first oil change!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated since I already have the hcm module filter out!!!! It's a 2011 RS SE5, if that makes a difference!!!
 
Trying to do my oil change. I can't for the life of me get the dang oil drain plug un-done!!! It's like the dealership used loctite on it when they put it back from the first oil change!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated since I already have the hcm module filter out!!!! It's a 2011 RS SE5, if that makes a difference!!!


Remember to loosen turn counterclockwise to tighten turn clockwire
 
Lefty-loosey, righty-tightie!!! It won't budge.... When I'm trying to loosen it, the whole oil tank is pulling towards me. They put that damned thing in waaaaaaay to tight!!!
 
Lefty-loosey, righty-tightie!!! It won't budge.... When I'm trying to loosen it, the whole oil tank is pulling towards me. They put that damned thing in waaaaaaay to tight!!!


ok then loosen the hose that is on the right side of the oil tank the one that has the strainer at the same time you can clean the strainer you can empty the oil tank that way after you empty the engine
 
One thing that i have had the best luck with is to tap the center of the drain plug with a punch and hammer. LIGHT TAP! Just to shock the plug a little.
 
I'll remember that for next time!! I finally got it!! Had to brace my foot against the bike and pull for all I was worth. It "popped" when it let loose!! Nothing like the smell of dirty oil in the afternoon!! :clap:

Thank you much!!
 
Those plugs can be a bear. The diameter of the plug face is much larger than the diameter of the wrench you will use to remove it. This gives the plug a great mechanical advantage over you. Put a vice-grip on the OD of the plug and put the other wrench where it normally goes. Turn both of them together. That should do it. The outside diameter of the plug will get buggered up, but don't worry about it at this time. Use a new sealing washer. Order Gold Plugs or another brand with regular wrench hex heads for next time. They are worth the money.
 
Those plugs can be a bear. The diameter of the plug face is much larger than the diameter of the wrench you will use to remove it. This gives the plug a great mechanical advantage over you. Put a vice-grip on the OD of the plug and put the other wrench where it normally goes. Turn both of them together. That should do it. The outside diameter of the plug will get buggered up, but don't worry about it at this time. Use a new sealing washer. Order Gold Plugs or another brand with regular wrench hex heads for next time. They are worth the money.


I agree the OEM drain plugs are junk i installed dimple magnetic drain plugs on my first oil change
 
Just changed the oil in the F3 this weekend. It's got an Allen head on the right side and a Torx on the left!
 
Everything changed out, oil light goes off in a timely manner at start up. All that's left to do is put the panels back on and take 'er for a spin!!!!!

Thanks again for the suggestions!!! Hopefully next time I won't have so much trouble since everything was hand-tightened and not using pneumatic tools!!!! Grrrrrrr!!!
 
Here's the thing....

Hot oil and time will create a varnish very much like loctite. Hiting the plug breaks up the varnish allowing you to remove the plug. best way to do it is to place the tool you are going to use and hiting it with the hammer...As mentioned many times by many folks here, change the plugs for the bolt head style. Best known are the Dimple (I use these, expensive but the best) and the gold much more reasonable...:thumbup:
 
Use one of these.

To loosen just use one of these. It's just that easy.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • wrench2.jpg
    wrench2.jpg
    25 KB · Views: 474
I've found my cordless impact driver does wonders for breaking bolts or nuts loose.
Must be careful and ensure the bit or socket is a perfect fit but I've even used this on the bowl screws on my buell carb.

NOTE: I did not say an impact wrench, just my cordless impact driver.
 
I have been debating about if I want to change my oil or take it to my dealer and have them do it.... If I can find a deal on some Amsoil I will give it a go I think!
 
I had taken mine in for it's 600 mile checkup some time ago and hadn't taken it back for an oil change. I figured I'd do it myself this time. I had a 10 year old Jeep Liberty that I had done all but 5 oil changes on. How hard could this be on a Spyder?? Took a while, but it's done. Runs great!!! Followed the green manual to a "tee" on changing the oil, replacing it, running the bike for a couple minutes, etc. Now that I've done it, I'll have no hesitation in doing it myself again!!! :thumbup: and I think I'll get the Dimple plugs for the next oil change too!!
 
Tricks of the trade

If any type of thread is stuck, especially a tapered thread, always try to tighten it first. The micro-striations caused when tightening mean it will be easier to break it by continuing to tighten it. Trust me, 10+ years as a pipe fitter, I've learned the tricks to budge stuck threads, and going tighter is about 50% less effort. So in reality, to break it free, you can turn it either way, with no extra risk of ruining anything. Using a proper quality wrench, or a proper socket also go a long way. Cheap tools break, and break things as they flex.
 
New to the Can Am crowd, but read enough on the oil drain thing to know I want those Gold plugs. In looking for them I find them but the say to use your old O rings. There are two of them and ones a different color. Where can I get just the O rings for the Gold plugs?
Buckskin

Those plugs can be a bear. The diameter of the plug face is much larger than the diameter of the wrench you will use to remove it. This gives the plug a great mechanical advantage over you. Put a vice-grip on the OD of the plug and put the other wrench where it normally goes. Turn both of them together. That should do it. The outside diameter of the plug will get buggered up, but don't worry about it at this time. Use a new sealing washer. Order Gold Plugs or another brand with regular wrench hex heads for next time. They are worth the money.
 
Back
Top