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Need advice from a good Wrench 2010 RS SE5 downshifting issue

Baphomet

New member
I took the 2010 RS SE5 into the shop for routine maintenance (8,000 miles on it) and when I got it back I noticed that when I downshift it is REALLY rough. Only when it shift from 2 to 1st does it sound normal. All the other gears it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging and is being slammed into gear. Up shifting everything sounds nice and normal.

In the shop the only thing they did besides check fluids and air was an oil change. They also replaced a device called a "blipper solenoid" which I was told goes on or near the throttle body. They replaced that solenoid because I complained the motor was running a bit rough. The solenoid did correct the rough running issue.

I searched the Owners Handbook and cannot find any kind of adjustment for the semi-automatic (aside from how to shift it manually). I really do not like the service I got from the dealership where I took it for service and don't want to return there unless it is absolutely necessary. If it is some kind of adjustment I can make on my own then that is what I will attempt to do.

So, my question to all you Spyder gurus out there is this; is there a way to adjust a semi-automatics clutch or the timing for shifting? Another question might be for those who live near San Antonio Texas, do you know of a GOOD shop to take the Spyder for service in the future? The shop I took it too is call "Joe Harrison Motorsports" and I was unhappy with their service ... so don't bother recommending them. I could Google a list of shops near here but if someone has a good review for one I'd rather go by that.

TIA
 
Well, indeed I did take it to the dealer yesterday just hours after I posted my question. They did quickly locate and resolve the problem. If you want to know what it was ... take yours to a dealer when you experience the same issue.

What I expected from this forum was a little more knowledge about the RS and a little less condescending advice. In my world my goal is to be self sufficient (with the help of the more experienced) and not hand over my checkbook to a dealership and be at the mercy of their schedule.
 
:dontknow: Nobody was being condescending. You asked about any adjustment you could do at home, and there is none. Sorry that irritates you, but there was no other advice to offer.
 
Well, indeed I did take it to the dealer yesterday just hours after I posted my question. They did quickly locate and resolve the problem. If you want to know what it was ... take yours to a dealer when you experience the same issue.

What I expected from this forum was a little more knowledge about the RS and a little less condescending advice. In my world my goal is to be self sufficient (with the help of the more experienced) and not hand over my checkbook to a dealership and be at the mercy of their schedule.

Not the best way to try and get help from others.

I'm sure if Scotty knew the answer he would have helped.

Was the fix actually something you could have done at home? If it was, you could help others who have an SE5. Just saying.
 
Maybe I did over react and for that I apologize. When I hear "take it to a dealer" without an explanation as to why the assumption is that I would not be capable of doing it myself.

If someone would have read my original post up top they would see that I mentioned the dealership originally replaced the blipper solenoid. If someone had taken a moment to explain to me what that device was (like the mechanic at the dealership did) I would have known to look to it for the issue. That and the fact the problem started after the new one was installed (incorrectly). Yes, if I had an understanding of what components were involved when automatically downshifting I could have fixed it myself. Now I understand what takes place when shifting and am pretty confident that since I can order parts directly from BRP I should be able to do most stuff on my own.

If someone wants to help me with one other thing even after my harsh words then you can tell me if you can pull error codes off the digital display without the use of a computer like you can on most motorcycles.
 
To read active fault codes:

RS -
1. Turn key on
2. Press "MODE" repeatedly to scroll to "Total Hours" on display
3. Start engine
4. Press and hold "MODE" button while pressing the "Flash High Beam" button rapidly 5 times within 2 seconds
5. Active fault codes will scroll...or "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed. If this doesn't display, the flash button was not pressed five times within two seconds...try again

RT -
1. Turn key on
2. Start engine
3. Press "MODE", "SET", and the turn signal cancel simultaneously.
4. Active fault codes will be displayed. P0000 or a blank indicates no active fault codes.

To retrieve occurred (past) fault codes, the Spyder must be hooked to BUDS. The multifunction display only shows active fault codes.
 
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