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Need A New Battery

Panda_72

New member
Hi Everyone,

I am currently having trouble keeping my battery charged on my 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS. I find myself having to charge it with my Battery Tender every two or three days. Is it just time for me to replace it? How hard is it to replace the battery?? I would LIKE to do it myself in order to save a little money. Also, what type of battery do I need for a 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS SE5??? I would be truly grateful for any advice!
 
Before you spring for a new battery, you should do some simple maintenance, and some testing...or have your dealer do the testing. First, the maintenance. Whenever a battery problem is encountered, the first thing to do is to disconnect the battery terminals (the actual battery posts, not the jumper terminals under the seat), clean the terminals, and tighten them securely. Then fully charge the battery. After charging, disconnect the charger and let the battery sit.

A couple of hours later, or the next morning, check the battery voltage. It should be above 12.6 volts. If lower, the battery is not holding a charge, and should be replaced. Next, start the engine and check the charging voltage. At 4,000 rpm, it should be 13-14 volts. If not, the Spyder charging system has problems, and you'll have to visit your dealer. Finally, perform a simple load test. Shut off the Spyder, open the throttle all the way to allow cranking without starting, crank the engine, and check battery voltage while cranking. The voltage should not drop below 10.0 volts. If it does, the battery is likely bad. Your dealer can verify this with a more sophisticated load test.
 
Hi Everyone,

I am currently having trouble keeping my battery charged on my 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS. I find myself having to charge it with my Battery Tender every two or three days. Is it just time for me to replace it? How hard is it to replace the battery?? I would LIKE to do it myself in order to save a little money. Also, what type of battery do I need for a 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS SE5??? I would be truly grateful for any advice!

No battery last forever, If your battery is the original battery [08] Its probably due for a new one.
By the time you do all the tests, buy a tester, or let a dealer test it, It won't cost any more than if you just get a new battery and put it in yourself. I would pull the old battery out [remove the neg- terminal AT the battery FIRST] Then take it to Auto Zone, Battery plus, etc. To match it. Not a Wall Mart.
 
JMHO, but I change my scoot batteries every three years, whether they need it or not. I really do not want to get caught in deep southwest Texas with a dead battery. (or anywhere) Cheap insurance in my estimaiton.

:spyder2:
 
New battery every three years.

After pushing a two wheeler for a mile after it decided to not start, I'm with Big Red on this one.
:agree:
 
When you get a new battery for your scoot or auto, charge it for 24 hours before using it if you can. It will bring your battery up to 100%, and allow it to be charged to 100% later. Nearly all batteries are about 75-80% when you buy them because few, if any, dealers charge them upon receipt from their distributor.

I keep a book on my vehicles and when the three years is up, I buy the battery, set in the barn and charge it for a day or two, then install it. I prefer to install my own battery, not the dealer. The techs pay little attention to cleaning the terminals and clamps or putting a little electrolite grease on the posts. JMHO

:spyder2:
 
No battery last forever, If your battery is the original battery [08] Its probably due for a new one.
By the time you do all the tests, buy a tester, or let a dealer test it, It won't cost any more than if you just get a new battery and put it in yourself. I would pull the old battery out [remove the neg- terminal AT the battery FIRST] Then take it to Auto Zone, Battery plus, etc. To match it. Not a Wall Mart.




I will never buy another sealed battery from Batteries Plus. The last two I got there one was DOA and the other would not hold a charge.
 
batterys

well I agree , Battery's plus don't sell too many spyder stuff, & I think the shelf life is expired, & since I own 2- harley's, I use harley battery's, they work for me, I put one in my 2007 spyder, (battery was D. O .A ) , & harley battery is still a crank'n !!!!! :yikes:
 
I don't like to dis much but I agree about Batteries Plus. I purchased a 12v battery for a customers machine since they needed it asap, it died within 6 months. The battery had the correct cca and class for this type app. and there was nothing wrong with the charging system. My neighbor purchased one for his truck, it too died within 3 months.
 
If you go with an Odyssey PC680 as mentioned in the referenced thread above, the connections and angles of connections are different than stock and require some fiddling with; otherwise a very good battery.
 
If you go with an Odyssey PC680 as mentioned in the referenced thread above, the connections and angles of connections are different than stock and require some fiddling with; otherwise a very good battery.

Are you (or anyone who has the PC680 installed) able to share with me some pictures how you improvise the connectors, as they are not the same size/fitting? I am trying to figure out how I can work around the different PC680 connectors. :dontknow:
Thanks!!
 
Before you spring for a new battery, you should do some simple maintenance, and some testing...or have your dealer do the testing. First, the maintenance. Whenever a battery problem is encountered, the first thing to do is to disconnect the battery terminals (the actual battery posts, not the jumper terminals under the seat), clean the terminals, and tighten them securely. Then fully charge the battery. After charging, disconnect the charger and let the battery sit.

A couple of hours later, or the next morning, check the battery voltage. It should be above 12.6 volts. If lower, the battery is not holding a charge, and should be replaced. Next, start the engine and check the charging voltage. At 4,000 rpm, it should be 13-14 volts. If not, the Spyder charging system has problems, and you'll have to visit your dealer. Finally, perform a simple load test. Shut off the Spyder, open the throttle all the way to allow cranking without starting, crank the engine, and check battery voltage while cranking. The voltage should not drop below 10.0 volts. If it does, the battery is likely bad. Your dealer can verify this with a more sophisticated load test.

I agree. You could go and blindly replace the battery, or you could follow this advice and learn something that you could also use for other vehicles. ;)
 
BATTERY MAINTAINER

Hi Everyone,

I am currently having trouble keeping my battery charged on my 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS. I find myself having to charge it with my Battery Tender every two or three days. Is it just time for me to replace it? How hard is it to replace the battery?? I would LIKE to do it myself in order to save a little money. Also, what type of battery do I need for a 2008 Can-Am Spyder RS SE5??? I would be truly grateful for any advice!

Howdy, from Montana: I live in snow country, and our motorcycle, Spyder and ATV batteries stand, unused, for many months each year. I can't remember when I started using BATTERY MAINTAINERS instead of chargers, but probably 10 years ago. I've had my ATV since 1998, and it has a MAINTAINER hooked up whenever it's parked (sometimes for months). Same for my 2011 Spyder RT SE5 and the 2007 FJR 1300 AE. I've been using the SURECHARGE IV without incident. I'm only on my second ATV battery (the first one lasted for 7 years). I think it's a good idea to begin using a MAINTAINER on a new battery right away, and every time it's parked at home.
Take care,
CapNCrunch
 
Hey guys I'm on my third battery from BRP. The rt has25000km on it, got the bike end of May last year rode it four months last summer and two months this year so far. The rt is always on a battery tender and parked in my heated shop for the winter. I think I need a better battery one not from the dealer. No warranty on batteries here it's getting expensive.
 
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