• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need a New battery - what type: Lead Acid, AGM, Gel?

Antigravity seems to be high quality

$$$ -- I looked at the Antigravity batteries for a Moto Guzzi Norge and was impressed with their apparent quality. But the moment passed and I gave the Norge to a nephew. The ATX20-HD will fit in the battery space although you might want some padding on the bottom to raise the height where the holddown plate will fit better. You will need to bend the tangs on the plate flat. After receiving the battery charge it at least overnight (24 hours is better) to prepare it for the first time start. And a small bright flashlight really helps with the installation!

And don't forget the star washers.:D
 
Have anyone ever used this kind of battery 🔋 Antigravity Batteries ATX20-HD Heavy Duty Lithium Ion Battery with Dual Polarity and Battery Management System (BMS) - 900 CCA 5.18 Pounds 30Ah - AG-ATX20-HD -> inside your Can Am Spyder? I have a 2016 RT LIMITED
Waste of money IMO. Kind of like using a Mack truck to haul sand for your kid's playpen when a compact pickup would the job quite nicely. Sure it has a lot more capacity than the OEM battery, but how would you ever use that capacity unless your Spyder is lit up like a Christmas tree, has a disco like 1000 watt music system, and you like to have it sit for hours fully lit up and booming music not running nor hooked to a charger!

At 3 times the cost of the OEM battery you can buy 3 OEMs for the same price that will power your Spyder for 15 years. Do you expect to keep your Spyder for 15 years? I doubt this pricey battery would last 15 years.

If money is no limit, and you like to have the biggest and baddest of everything, go for it. If you like to spend frugally it's really hard to beat the OEM Yuasa.
 
Battery

:popcorn: Probably way more battery than you really need.
As others have already posted, the price is 3X the cost of the OEM battery.
All this being said, if you want it and if it fits.......go for it.

What ever makes you happy. ......:thumbup:
 
Lithium is still a technology in development. There are at least 3 different "lithium" battery types out there, all with different characteristics in terms of discharge and charge speeds, max current, Amp-hr ratings and life. The big advantage lithium brings is weight - pounds-size/power ratio. For guys out there with racebikes or trial or lightweight dirt bikes they have an advantage. For a (almost) thousand pound Spyder... If you want to run your sound system for hours with the engine off, lithium may be worth the extra cost.

All other batteries you can buy (excluding exotic apps like spacecraft and military) are based on sulfuric acid/lead chemistry, AGM and gel included. Liquid acid tends to splash around, which is a disadvantage in vehicles, which is why AGM and gel batteries dominate that market. Liquid acid batteries, which some people refer to as lead/acid, have advantages in stationary applications, like telephone offices. They are also cheaper to manufacture, which is why you still see them in vehicle applications.

Gel and AGM batteries "fix" the sulfuric acid so that it doesn't splash. Gel batteries are better in any application where the batteries spend significant amounts of time in other than vertical position. They are also more expensive than AGM.

What this leads us to is exactly the OEM solution.

AGM is the way to go.
 
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The big advantage lithium brings is weight - pounds-size/power ratio.

Yep that made it much easier to install my Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 on my lightweight racebike Spyder.:D

Of course the holddown plate was still a chore. If you do choose a LFX battery (the only lithium chemistry I would recommend) make sure you bend the tangs up or you risk a short.

I kept getting tempted by a Power Commander/Paddle Box/ECU flash but decided to spend the farkle money on a second Shorai (it was on deep discount). I did succumb to buying LM/BR swaybar before I ordered my Ikon shocks but after installing them I'm pretty sure it will be for sale (new in box). The Ikons provide such a supple ride and a swaybar won't improve it.
 
Idaho -- thanks for the load test guidance. It's getting down in the 40s again so I'll do a load test baseline.

Jeff -- you are so so right! I'll get the same advice from my PCP later this month. And she's going to tell me to take better care of my pipes too. Season's Greetings.:D

I picked up a small battery tester, have the basic analogue load tester as well. This one gives the health of the battery. It's inexpensive, but does a good job for the DIY garage mechanic. Cost approximately $60.00 CDN. It's a KZYEE KS21 Auto Battery Tester, 12V CCA Car Battery Load Tester Digital Analyzer for Vehicle Battery Health, Cranking and Charging System. Brother used this on his KIA Sportage as well, the battery was pooched at 24%. Has a couple other usefull functions.

My brother's Hyundai Santa Fe started to act up with the electrics/electronics. Tested the battery with it and it was at a 54% charge. Battery replaced and all is well. Would probably have come to the same realization with the analogue load tester, but seeing numbers is good.
 

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