givi side bags from givi , fit great and cheaper than BRP .i have a givi top rack that was designed to fit with the BRP side mounts .i had to do some bending and painting but in the end it fit nicely .i wanted to get the small givi top mount but by the time i went shopping it had been discontinued .so i had to adapt .the top bag is a monokey kappa 49 .i can haul a lot of stuff!
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my saddle bags and top bag
- Thread starter wftb
- Start date
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:2thumbs::2thumbs:
SPYD3R
Active member
part #'s
my givi side bags mounting frame is part #PLX770-KL770 .the top mount frame is part #SRX999/XR999 .i got the side bag package from Tennysons of Underwood ont and the top frame came from Two Wheel Motorsport of Guelph ont .i know the givi side bags are still available but i dont know about this top rack .and the top rack i have is designed for use with the BRP side frames .there is a difference between the givi and BRP side frames . the givi mounts much closer to the bike and that is why i had to bend the tubes of the top frame to make it work .i will try to get some pics later to show how i did it .not for the timid , i could have easily ended up with 189.00 worth of scrap tubing if i screwed up .
my givi side bags mounting frame is part #PLX770-KL770 .the top mount frame is part #SRX999/XR999 .i got the side bag package from Tennysons of Underwood ont and the top frame came from Two Wheel Motorsport of Guelph ont .i know the givi side bags are still available but i dont know about this top rack .and the top rack i have is designed for use with the BRP side frames .there is a difference between the givi and BRP side frames . the givi mounts much closer to the bike and that is why i had to bend the tubes of the top frame to make it work .i will try to get some pics later to show how i did it .not for the timid , i could have easily ended up with 189.00 worth of scrap tubing if i screwed up .
Bob Denman
New member
:congrats: on a job well-done! :thumbup:
top bag mounting frame
next post has the diagram that came with the frame .the bars that have to be bent are the ones that bolt to the saddlebag locking tab mount .once you get the right amount of curve on the bars , then you need to put a twist on the brackets that bolt to the tab so they will line up properly .the bends at the rear of the frame on both sides needs to be increased and then you can bolt to the saddle bag frame using the long supplied bolts and a fender washer .remember if you have BRP saddlebags and mounts , no mods to the frame are required
next post has the diagram that came with the frame .the bars that have to be bent are the ones that bolt to the saddlebag locking tab mount .once you get the right amount of curve on the bars , then you need to put a twist on the brackets that bolt to the tab so they will line up properly .the bends at the rear of the frame on both sides needs to be increased and then you can bolt to the saddle bag frame using the long supplied bolts and a fender washer .remember if you have BRP saddlebags and mounts , no mods to the frame are required
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You might want to redo that rear strut attachment
There have been cases of owners cracking that rear strut. The stock mounting uses two separate nut/washer combos and that design stresses the thin tubes at the holes.
I finished my conversion this weekend. The struts are attached using a simple U-bolt I got from the hardware store. The bonus is that the u-bolt has a plate, and spreads the load over more surface area; decreasing the likelihood of the strut failing.
I went this route because it doesn't require hacking up the original Can Am tail piece and I don't have to shell out $$$ for the sport rack and hack that up too. Instead of bending the top arm, I cut off the plate and will have it re welded once I get the mock up complete.
There have been cases of owners cracking that rear strut. The stock mounting uses two separate nut/washer combos and that design stresses the thin tubes at the holes.
I finished my conversion this weekend. The struts are attached using a simple U-bolt I got from the hardware store. The bonus is that the u-bolt has a plate, and spreads the load over more surface area; decreasing the likelihood of the strut failing.
I went this route because it doesn't require hacking up the original Can Am tail piece and I don't have to shell out $$$ for the sport rack and hack that up too. Instead of bending the top arm, I cut off the plate and will have it re welded once I get the mock up complete.
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