My Ryker 900 always leaks at the oil filter cap - what's going on?

[blackphoenix38]

I've had a constant issue of leaks at the oil filter cap. The same exact spot every single time. The screw near the front of the motor. No matter how I put the cap on or what O-ring I use, it always ends up leaking at some point.

I'm thinking of buying a new oil filter cap and trying that, but like I said, it's always the same spot no matter how I rotate the cap, so idk if that will matter or not. I use the OEM O-rings from the BRP kits, so I have no idea what's going on.

 

[BajaRon]

How do the mating surfaces look on the engine side. I'm assuming it is that side since it matters not how the cap is positioned. Maybe a flaw in the casting. Should be easy to pinpoint since it's always in the same place.

I assume you wipe the oil away and it then comes back.

Though I doubt these suggestions will solve your problem. They are, never-the-less, good steps to follow.
1- Always lubricate the O-Ring with a thin film of fresh oil.
2- Tighten each cap screw a little at a time. Do not tighten one screw and then attempt to tighten the others.
3- The cap screws do not need to be killer tight. The O-Ring will do the work. Just evenly snug is best. With emphasis on 'Evenly'.

 

[Gwolf]

I am not familiar with the Ryker engine design, but any time there is weeping or leaking of oil, one of the things to suspect is a stopped up or otherwise inoperable crankcase venting system. If the venting system is not working properly, the additional pressure has to be relieved somehow. If air pressure is being forced out someplace where it should not be, it will be taking some weeping or maybe larger amounts of oil with it.

 

[blackphoenix38]

I am not familiar with the Ryker engine design, but any time there is weeping or leaking of oil, one of the things to suspect is a stopped up or otherwise inoperable crankcase venting system. If the venting system is not working properly, the additional pressure has to be relieved somehow. If air pressure is being forced out someplace where it should not be, it will be taking some weeping or maybe larger amounts of oil with it.

You know what, I have a oil catch can on it... I was thinking of disconnecting that and seeing what happens.

 

[2dogs]

You are getting some good advice here. I'm so glad that with my spyder (and my wife's new car), I don't have to check the ground anymore for fresh oil spots where we parked. LOL

 

[BajaRon]

You know what, I have a oil catch can on it... I was thinking of disconnecting that and seeing what happens.

Why would you want an oil catch can on a Ryker?

 

[Woodaddict]

Nobody has mentioned this yet. Even the Ryker is a dry sump engine, like the Spyder. Do not check the oil level cold, or you will overfill. I see you're a member since 2018, should have seen by now proper way to fill and check the oil level after running, then shut off, then check. There has been a few postings of a Spyder overfilled and leaking up thru the oil fill cap

 

[BajaRon]

Nobody has mentioned this yet. Even the Ryker is a dry sump engine, like the Spyder. Do not check the oil level cold, or you will overfill. I see you're a member since 2018, should have seen by now proper way to fill and check the oil level after running, then shut off, then check. There has been a few postings of a Spyder overfilled and leaking up thru the oil fill cap

The Ryker has an anti-drain back valve in the filter. But that won't keep the oil from the reservoir from going back into the crankcase. You may have hit on something here. It's been so often repeated that I didn't even think of the proper level checking process as a possibility. And this could also explain the assumed need for a catch can.