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My Ryker 900 always leaks at the oil filter cap - what's going on?

B

blackphoenix38

Member
I've had a constant issue of leaks at the oil filter cap. The same exact spot every single time. The screw near the front of the motor. No matter how I put the cap on or what O-ring I use, it always ends up leaking at some point.

I'm thinking of buying a new oil filter cap and trying that, but like I said, it's always the same spot no matter how I rotate the cap, so idk if that will matter or not. I use the OEM O-rings from the BRP kits, so I have no idea what's going on.
 
How do the mating surfaces look on the engine side. I'm assuming it is that side since it matters not how the cap is positioned. Maybe a flaw in the casting. Should be easy to pinpoint since it's always in the same place.

I assume you wipe the oil away and it then comes back.

Though I doubt these suggestions will solve your problem. They are, never-the-less, good steps to follow.
1- Always lubricate the O-Ring with a thin film of fresh oil.
2- Tighten each cap screw a little at a time. Do not tighten one screw and then attempt to tighten the others.
3- The cap screws do not need to be killer tight. The O-Ring will do the work. Just evenly snug is best. With emphasis on 'Evenly'.
 
I am not familiar with the Ryker engine design, but any time there is weeping or leaking of oil, one of the things to suspect is a stopped up or otherwise inoperable crankcase venting system. If the venting system is not working properly, the additional pressure has to be relieved somehow. If air pressure is being forced out someplace where it should not be, it will be taking some weeping or maybe larger amounts of oil with it.
 
Gwolf said:
I am not familiar with the Ryker engine design, but any time there is weeping or leaking of oil, one of the things to suspect is a stopped up or otherwise inoperable crankcase venting system. If the venting system is not working properly, the additional pressure has to be relieved somehow. If air pressure is being forced out someplace where it should not be, it will be taking some weeping or maybe larger amounts of oil with it.
Click to expand...
You know what, I have a oil catch can on it... I was thinking of disconnecting that and seeing what happens.
 
Nobody has mentioned this yet. Even the Ryker is a dry sump engine, like the Spyder. Do not check the oil level cold, or you will overfill. I see you're a member since 2018, should have seen by now proper way to fill and check the oil level after running, then shut off, then check. There has been a few postings of a Spyder overfilled and leaking up thru the oil fill cap
 
Woodaddict said:
Nobody has mentioned this yet. Even the Ryker is a dry sump engine, like the Spyder. Do not check the oil level cold, or you will overfill. I see you're a member since 2018, should have seen by now proper way to fill and check the oil level after running, then shut off, then check. There has been a few postings of a Spyder overfilled and leaking up thru the oil fill cap
Click to expand...
The Ryker has an anti-drain back valve in the filter. But that won't keep the oil from the reservoir from going back into the crankcase. You may have hit on something here. It's been so often repeated that I didn't even think of the proper level checking process as a possibility. And this could also explain the assumed need for a catch can.
 
blackphoenix38 said:
catch can was recommended by my tuner. I am not over filling it, I know how to check the oil.
Click to expand...
The only reason for a catch can is if you have crankcase vent issues. I've never seen a Ryker with this kind of problem. I am leaning more towards Gwolf's assessment of a vent restriction of some kind. Very strange.
 
wouldn't it throw a code at that point? maybe not. I'll double check some stuff today. The weird thing is the last oil change I did it didn't leak for like 600 miles then it started again.
 
blackphoenix38 said:
wouldn't it throw a code at that point? maybe not. I'll double check some stuff today. The weird thing is the last oil change I did it didn't leak for like 600 miles then it started again.
Click to expand...
No, a restricted vent issue will not register a code. But you can blow out valve cover seals, etc., over time. I'm not even sure what would cause this issue in a Ryker. If I get time, I'll look into it as your situation interests me greatly.

Have you made modifications to your engine or exhaust?
 
Venting of oily mists collects dirt and it can dry in the hose or the place where it vents. The vented gas is hot and bakes the crud in place. There is also a small wasp that likes to catch spiders and stuff them in small holes with straw and sticks, where it lays eggs and then seals the hole over with wet dirt which dries rock hard. You might call it a bug in the system. Blowing air from inside to outside will clear the vent hose, but even that will not always blow the little wasp stoppers out. Never blow air the other way or you blow the dirt and crud back into the engine or transmission where it contributes to wear.

www.canr.msu.edu

The grass-carrying wasp: A solitary wasp that builds an unusual nest

Grass-carrying wasps build their distinctive nests in the tracks of storm windows as well as abandoned insect galleries and hollow plant stems.
www.canr.msu.edu www.canr.msu.edu

If you live where these wasps nest, you have to keep a cap on any gun barrels to keep the little wasps from plugging them. Leave your shotgun leaning up by the back door while you go in to eat lunch and you might come back out to find a plugged up barrel. They also plug up air blowers in the shop and anything else that looks like a hollow plant stem.
 
BajaRon said:
No, a restricted vent issue will not register a code. But you can blow out valve cover seals, etc., over time. I'm not even sure what would cause this issue in a Ryker. If I get time, I'll look into it as your situation interests me greatly.

Have you made modifications to your engine or exhaust?
Click to expand...
I've got an aftermarket intake, exhaust and tune. everything else is stock.
 
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