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My RT Fuel/Gas Door DIY

ggivens

ggivens

New member
Items:

Bully Gas Door with a 4 1/2" inside hole diameter Part#: GD-301
BRP Comfort Seat with Backrest (a little different from the standard seat)

Tools:
Lenox 4 1/2" hole saw with arbor
Power drill for 3/8 drill bit size
Large towel to cover bike near the seat
Pair of work gloves
7/16 wrench
#20 Star Driver TX20
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers
Scissors
Files: 1 flat and 1 small round
Thin line red or white removable ink marker or pen
Exacto knife or box cutter
3 Machine flat head Philips screws with nuts: 1/4-20 x 1in
3 Machine flat head Philips screws with nuts: 1/4-20 x 3/4in
3 Machine flat head Philips screws with nuts: 1/4-20 x 1 1/2in
3 Machine flat head Philips screws with nuts: 1/4-20 x 2 1/2in
2 Machine flat head Philips screws with nuts: 1/4-20 x 3 in
Note: These screws might be needed because the 4 screws on the fuel door are short. Just have them
handy in case you need to use different size screws to mount the door

Installation:
Step 1: Cover working area with towel (there will be lots of shavings)
Step 2: Optional: Pull the outside cover back enough for the fuel door to fit
Step 3: Position the fuel door on the seat over the gas tank cover with the seat down
Step 4: Make sure the door hinge is horizontal and to the left
Step 5: Outline the outer edges of the fuel door
Step 6: Outline the inside diameter of the fuel door
Step 7: Mark off the center of the inside fuel door hole
Step 8: Drill the starter hole with a 3/16" bit in the center of the inside hole from the outside of the seat
Step 9: With the seat up, on the inside of the seat start drilling with the hole saw using the starter hole as a guide.
Step 10: Drill into the plastic seat very lightly until the hole saw starts to make a deep cut in the plastic
Step 11: Cut through the plastic and the layers of padding; determine if you want to continue through the outer cover or cut that out using scissors or exactor knife (file the edges of the plastic seat if needed).
Step 12: Line of the fuel door is horizontal with the hinge to the left and mark off the mounting hole
Step: 13: Drill the mounting holes using a 3/8 drill bit
Step 14: Mount the fuel door with the bolts that fit each hole's length
 

Attachments

  • Fuel Door 2.jpg
    Fuel Door 2.jpg
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I love a DIY'er .......... However, I've done this almost 2 dozen times ... and most people who do it your way are going to have problems ... The easiest and guaranteed best outcome way is this .... Take the door (with the holes empty except for the ones at the Hinge) and put it against your seat as Far forward that still leaves approx. 1/2 in from the edge of the seat - top & bottom position the Hinge to the right side (you won't use the Hinge side bolts; the bolts that come with the door are left alone) .... with a soldering iron or very, very hot large nail .... melt one hole thru (only) the SEAT material (not the plastic pan) .... now drill a 1/4 in hole, and put a 2 in long 1/4 in bolt in (beveled head not HEX) ... from the backside - put a reg. nut on screw this halfway down with a deep socket ... now do it again opposite the first one ... screw this one down more than the first ... These two bolts when tightened fully are like CLAMPS ... they will force the RING down tight against the seat and keep it positioned exactly .... you need "T" nuts (from Home Depot, Lowes' etc) the same thread as the machine screws you plan to use, if you get the ones with the prongs, grind off two and make the others smaller or just use a pr. of pliers to make them flat ... melt a new hole and drill it thru ... push a T nut into hole from backside .... You can now use screws of 3/4 inch length .... put on your screw .... do the rest all around ... when you are done, take off the long bolts and replace with your machine screws and T nuts .... to make your hole use a very sharp box cutter and cut thru the seat material around the inside of the Ring - leave about 1/8 in. extra so the door won't go past this point when closed (looks nicer) .... if you still have foam - trim it out ... DO NOT USE A LARGE HOLE cutter (too expensive and dangerous to use with a drill). I prefer a 2 or 2 1/2 inch size ... drill a hole near the left side (where the plastic is almost flat) run this hole cutter BACKWARDS, if you don't the teeth may grab and yank the drill from your hands (This is a fact!!!) after you're done, I then use a Dremel or use a coarse stone in a fast drill to grind out the rest of the plastic, I also remove any excess foam with the coarse stone and then paint it Black .... Tips - I put glue on the screws so they don't vibrate out... not Lok-Tite ... if the threads are showing then loosen them until they are flush ... if your door has a lock, you may have to trim under the ring for the latch to be smooth.... I learned this method through Trial & Error ... I buy my doors on E-bay ... Ford F150 & Chevy Tahoe & Blazer, GMC Yukon & Suburban - all '94 to '99 yrs ... enter least expensive with free shipping & they are about $30.00 ... look for Billet Alum. in the search box .... Good Luck!

PM me if you need help ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Tyris said:
Who sells the fuel door that can be added to seat?
Click to expand...
The best prices I've ever seen were on E-bay ...... chrome or matte black ..... make sure it's an Actual door ... not a cover .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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BLUEKNIGHT911 said:
The best prices I've ever seen were on E-bay ...... chrome or matte black ..... make sure it's an Actual door ... not a cover .... Mike :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Do you have a link for that, Mike?

I found this earlier thread on the topic: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?108272-Fuel-Gas-Door-DYI&highlight=fuel+door

This one is better: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?49155-Fuel-Door-DIY&highlight=fuel+door

Mike, do you have any of those kits left for sale?
 
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UtahPete said:
Do you have a link for that, Mike?

I found this earlier thread on the topic http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?108272-Fuel-Gas-Door-DYI&highlight=fuel+door

This one is better; http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?49155-Fuel-Door-DIY&highlight=fuel+door

Mike, do you have any of those kits left for sale?
Click to expand...
Your first is the better one .............. I don't sell them ...... I don't have any info on what's available NOW, sellers change or don't have stock, but the models I listed for Trucks will work (size wise) are ALL Billet Aluminum so are plenty strong ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks to Mr. Geobel I saw this door ... I researched it (Amazon provides NO Useful info on the product) and it fits late model Chevy Trucks and SUV's .... It's a good price - if you have free shipping privileges .... I have many install posts on how I do/did mine ....... make the bolt holes in the seat material with a very Hot nail .... mount the door RING before you cut the BIG hole .... Use 1/4" x 2" long bolts in two places on the ring to compress the seat foam (acts like a vise) .... get "T" nuts and 1-inch bolts to mount it .... 4 bolts actually work fine .... the billet door ring is quite sturdy .... I used a 2" hole saw to start the large hole , then used a Dremel with a coarse stone to make it bigger, BUT BEFORE you make that hole ... cut the seat material around the inside of the ring with a SHARP utility knife ... if you try to use a large Hole saw, when those teeth grab :yikes: it can/will rip the saw from your hands (and make a mess of your seat and side panels when you drop it :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ) ... Good Luck ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Is it possible to install fuel door on a comfort seat on RT-S? If so, where can I buy fuel doors and how difficult are they to install?
Thanks for your help. Leon
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Leaping1 said:
Is it possible to install fuel door on a comfort seat on RT-S? If so, where can I buy fuel doors and how difficult are they to install?
Thanks for your help. Leon
Click to expand...

Over the past 8 years I have posted many threads and posts about how this is done ..... I did them as a vendor for many years .... I may still have the info on a few that work that might still be for sale on E-bay ...... Mike :2thumbs: ............I'll send you a PM for E-Bay item ......... See my post #3 above for My install instructions ....Thanks Peter for consolidating this thread ...M
 
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