• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

My new camper design to pull behind Spyder

That looks like a good design, You should give some thought to moving the fenders up and using larger tires
and wheels, years ago when we built ours we had small 12 inch tires on it, the tires would drop all the way into chuck holes
and not roll over them. look in to a different axel design and larger tires and wheels. we used 165X15
Good luck and please post photos of the build.
Dave

Many of you remember my previous camper design(shown in first photo). Now I have a new design that I will build in the spring. I built a scale model to test the concept. It will be built on an aluminum 4x8 trailer, have foam and wood walls, and be able to pop up so I can stand inside(approx 6 ft interior). Total weight is expected to be around 300#. Interior design has not been determined at this time. I realize the first criticism will be the roof vent. It has to face that way to shed water when in the pop-up position. It will not catch the wind and rip off when closed for travel, but the final design may differ anyway. In fact, I am thinking about putting the roof vent the other way so I can vent it during travel. Any suggestions are welcomed.
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I would make the rear door a split door. e.g. a 1/2 door on the bottom half and a 1/2 door on the top pop up part.
I like the design idea of the pop up for sure!
Can't wait to see it.

Bob

I am not using a half door because I wanted to simplify things. Plus, a factory built teardrop camper door will be more secure and water-tight. I like the idea of my trailer being sealed up with no obvious entry point when its in the towing position. Also, the 2 different angles of the back panels would mean the half doors would need to be opened separately.

Here is a list of criteria that my camper must meet:

1 weigh around 300 lbs or as light as possible empty
2 Little or no set-up time/ must be able to pull into rest area/truck stop and climb inside for a nap. Cant do that with a MiniMate.
3 Be corrosion/rot proof
4 Look like it was factory built
5 be safe to tow with the spyder
6 Be weatherproof and able to sit outside all winter.
 
the door thing

Have you considered a large HATCH that would swing up on gas struts ..... way less expensive and it would protect you from the rain ......just a thought ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
Camper design?

Here is just another idea. Why not move the wheels inboard? This will allow you to have more room inside by making the camper wider. Also, give you a little storage room in front of and behind the wheel wells. Just another idea. Good luck.
 
Here is just another idea. Why not move the wheels inboard? This will allow you to have more room inside by making the camper wider. Also, give you a little storage room in front of and behind the wheel wells. Just another idea. Good luck.

A wider width is actually being considered, but since its only for me, it might remain at 48".
 
I have some coroplast for my sign making, but I dont like it for the camper. This will be a "foamy". Look it up on youtube. Light and strong.

I will also have a SUV tent that will attach to the back for an added room when at campsites. Yes it will have a TV, A/C, and a 2000k generator, water hookup, outside shower and portable toilet in a separate popup tent. I might not need the A/C and generator and that will save a lot of weight. The generator only weighs 52# but not sure I really need it. A battery and solar should be enough. Depends which weighs less.

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I left my 2K generator dome because of weight issues and got an 100 0watt sine wave inverter to use for 110V at night running off my battery. I use a solar panel to charge the battery along with a battery charger if at a camp site with power.
 
Many of you remember my previous camper design(shown in first photo). Now I have a new design that I will build in the spring. I built a scale model to test the concept. It will be built on an aluminum 4x8 trailer, have foam and wood walls, and be able to pop up so I can stand inside(approx 6 ft interior). Total weight is expected to be around 300#. Interior design has not been determined at this time. I realize the first criticism will be the roof vent. It has to face that way to shed water when in the pop-up position. It will not catch the wind and rip off when closed for travel, but the final design may differ anyway. In fact, I am thinking about putting the roof vent the other way so I can vent it during travel. Any suggestions are welcomed.
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looks very nice. I'd put a sliding window with a screen in the front to let air circulate through it while traveling. If that will work or not. As long as it's not raining
 
not trying to steal your thread just showing the one i built first trip was 6000 kms
 

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For a toilet you can use a homer bucket, kitchen trash bag and some para cord to hold the trash bag in place. After using, remove trash bag and tie a knot in the top and discard. When traveling, use the bucket pre-prepped for storage.
 
I dont need brakes. Trailer camper will be light. I have a small air conditioner and might make a removable panel so it can be used on short trips, but it weighs 40 lbs, so I doubt I will use it very often.
 
Joel, check out this personal AC unit

I dont need brakes. Trailer camper will be light. I have a small air conditioner and might make a removable panel so it can be used on short trips, but it weighs 40 lbs, so I doubt I will use it very often.



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The aluminum trailer will be from Northern Tools. It is IronTon branded and costs around $650.


I am waiting for their sale when its $599 or they give a gift certificate with a certain purchase amount.
 
It’s says that Iron Ton trailers are steel frame and Ultra Tow trailers are aluminum frame.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction on where to seek a trailer frame.
 
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