My last mod....

[Lamonster]

.....today.:doorag:

I had a lot of oil in my airbox again so for about 17 bucks I made my own oil catch can out of a compressor air filter. I hope this solves my problem.

Revised Mod-This one is working great.

 

[Magic Man]

These work great! :2thumbs:

I made the same exact thing for my RXT Sea-Doo to keep the oil out of the intake, and it has worked perfect for 2 seasons now. :clap:

Now that cold weather is here in the great Northeast I'll finally have some more time in the shop to finally make one up for the Spyder too. :thumbup:

MM

 

[ataDude]

Now... one more minor mod to your mod.

Route it to the exhaust tip (on demand, of course) and let tailgaters have the overflow. :thumbup:

.

 

[Bimjo]

Now... one more minor mod to your mod.

Route it to the exhaust tip (on demand, of course) and let tailgaters have the overflow. :thumbup:

.

Now that's funny! :2thumbs:

 

[skeet]

oil in the air box

I had oil in the air box also, but it was caused by a dealership doing the oil change improperly. They put four quarts in the resevoir, started the engine and ran it for 30 seconds, checked the oil which showed low, added another quart, and ran the engine til it was at operating temp, shut it off, then checked the oil which indicated High level. They then vacuumed 1 quart out of the resevoir, and called it "perfect". I watched them do this, and that was when the "service" was terminated. I contacted the dealer where I purchased the bike, and the Mechanical Tech told me that 'running the engine with too much oil could overpressurize the system, possibly cause seal damage, or force oil into the airbox back through the fuel system air intake'.
Luckily, I had not ridden the bike since the "service", so I removed the air box cover, cleaned it up, and have no noticible problems. If a dealership can't tell you the correct procedure for changing the oil, don't let them service the bike!!!!!!

 

[NancysToy]

I had oil in the air box also, but it was caused by a dealership doing the oil change improperly. They put four quarts in the resevoir, started the engine and ran it for 30 seconds, checked the oil which showed low, added another quart, and ran the engine til it was at operating temp, shut it off, then checked the oil which indicated High level. They then vacuumed 1 quart out of the resevoir, and called it "perfect". I watched them do this, and that was when the "service" was terminated. I contacted the dealer where I purchased the bike, and the Mechanical Tech told me that 'running the engine with too much oil could overpressurize the system, possibly cause seal damage, or force oil into the airbox back through the fuel system air intake'.
Luckily, I had not ridden the bike since the "service", so I removed the air box cover, cleaned it up, and have no noticible problems. If a dealership can't tell you the correct procedure for changing the oil, don't let them service the bike!!!!!!

I agree that you should find another dealership for service. If these Bozo's can't even read the procedure in the manual, they shouldn't be allowed near your machine.

I can't really buy into the second dealer's explanation, though. The oil pump puts out the same pressure, within limits, regardless. It is a machine, and doesn't know oil level from beans. Sure, a pump will produce slightly higher pressure at a greater inlet side level, but a few inches is insignificant. A two foot difference in the level at the inlet only results in about a one pound increase in pressure. A few inches in an oil tank is nothing. There should be no seal damage even if there is enough oil to run over onto the ground.

The level could cause slightly more oil in the airbox, due to levels of the components and the hose layout, but it is unlikely. I suspect your oil in the airbox has the same cause as everyone else's...a design problem. Bottom line here is that with a dry sump system, the oil level shouldn't affect the oil pressure significantly unless it is real low, and shouldn't force oil into the various oil lines unless it reaches the point of overflow or blocks a return line. Not so sure about your second dealer, either. Is there a third choice?
-Scotty

 

[mike3069]

The level could cause slightly more oil in the airbox, due to levels of the components and the hose layout, but it is unlikely. I suspect your oil in the airbox has the same cause as everyone else's...a design problem. Bottom line here is that with a dry sump system, the oil level shouldn't affect the oil pressure significantly unless it is real low, and shouldn't force oil into the various oil lines unless it reaches the point of overflow or blocks a return line. Not so sure about your second dealer, either. Is there a third choice?
-Scotty

Scotty I agree with your logic.

However, my experience is that if the level of oil in the tank is above the lowest (just showing on stick) point when COLD there will be oil consumption. If it is not above this point the oil level doesn't seem to go down. I have not been able to find where the oil goes.:dontknow: Very little winds up in my air box. No more than I have seen on other engines with the oil breather hooked to the airbox. No drips anywhere, and it doesn't seem to be burning it.

So....I just make sure it is not above the very tip of the dip stick when COLD. This seems to bring it to mid level on the stick when HOT and keeps the level consistent.

It does not really make logical sense to me but it seems to work.

 

[docdoru]

Now... one more minor mod to your mod.

Route it to the exhaust tip (on demand, of course) and let tailgaters have the overflow. :thumbup:

.

What tailgaters? :doorag:

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty I agree with your logic.

However, my experience is that if the level of oil in the tank is above the lowest (just showing on stick) point when COLD there will be oil consumption. If it is not above this point the oil level doesn't seem to go down. I have not been able to find where the oil goes.:dontknow: Very little winds up in my air box. No more than I have seen on other engines with the oil breather hooked to the airbox. No drips anywhere, and it doesn't seem to be burning it.

So....I just make sure it is not above the very tip of the dip stick when COLD. This seems to bring it to mid level on the stick when HOT and keeps the level consistent.

It does not really make logical sense to me but it seems to work.

I have noticed exactly the same thing. I have no more clue than you. Odd, isn't it?
-Scotty

 

[bjt]

What tailgaters? :doorag:

After riding with you doc, I know that this statement is nojoke.

 

[vt228]

need one

.....today.:doorag:

I had a lot of oil in my airbox again so for about 17 bucks I made my own oil catch can out of a compressor air filter. I hope this solves my problem.

Revised Mod-This one is working great.

lamonster can you send a list on what to get and how to put together so I can put one on mine please thank you Don vt228

 

[Latemarch]

I found all the parts at Lowe's in the air compressor section except the filter, where'd you get that Lamonster?

 

[Lamonster]

I found all the parts at Lowe's in the air compressor section except the filter, where'd you get that Lamonster?

Yep, it's all right there :thumbup:

 

[GA-SPYDER]

I found all the parts at Lowe's in the air compressor section except the filter, where'd you get that Lamonster?

I've seen those breather filters at Autozone, Advance Auto, etc.:thumbup:

 

[Greenhorse]

Catch can

.....today.:doorag:

I had a lot of oil in my airbox again so for about 17 bucks I made my own oil catch can out of a compressor air filter. I hope this solves my problem.

Revised Mod-This one is working great.

Lamonster,
What a great idea, I am having the same problem could you provide a parts list and some basic instructions? I am guessing with that your invention, the rubber tube does not go to the airbox anymore. 2011 RSS Steve / Greenhorse

 

[Chupaca]

Nicely done..!!

Great job..You can get those breathers in blue to match. just like things to match...:roflblack: