My email to Carlo

[fastfraser]

OK Spyder Owners. Here's my shot at offering a method for checking the front wheel for alignment problems.

First off, Dr. Bruce, head Spyder mechanic at my dealer (South Texas Suzuki) is as good as they come for working on Spyders and giving pointers to owners. My first SE-5 had a serious alignment problem. Made 5K trip to Los Angeles Owners Meeting in '09, Tires were showing some uneven wear at 7K as I started the trip. Upon return the inside 3 inches or so of tread was 3/32nds more worn than rest of tire at end of trip. Inside grooves were approaching a slick condition.

July. - Replaced tires and had alignment adjusted with 12K maintenance. As has been reported by others, my dealer confirmed BRP takes no responsibility for original alignment and/or accelerated tire wear probably caused by the mis-alignment. I did take pictures confirming the uneven wear.

Sept. - Three months later had dealer check alignment again for there was a bit of uneven wear showing up. By this time Bruce had improvised an improvement in the alignment equipment and procedure as presented by the BRP Shop Manual. Even wear was being experienced after this 2nd alignment. However at 21K and only 9K miles on the tires, Spyder #1 and I hit a dog and due to a seriously bent front suspension and frame #1 had to be retired to salvage. Tires at the time looked good for several more K miles. Dog didn't survive, however I hardly felt the impact, picking up a few plastic pieces, I drove the Spyder home. Certainly glad I wasn't on my FJR.

Dec '09, purchased Spyder III, SE-5 Demo with non-directional P175/65-R14 Rocky Mountain tires on front. Made in Argentina. Alignment was checked at purchase but at 9700 miles the 175s were showing uneven wear on inside, 1/32nds or so, not too bad but not right either.

Time to innovate. Made my own tool for checking wheel alignments. Took 1" metal tubing and made a square shaped U of 42" total width and 13" standing ends. 11" from floor tapped each end for a 3/8" X 4" eye bolt to be pointed towards each other. Placed a 3/8" nut inside for securing the eyebolt.

It is now important that steering be pointed as straight ahead as can be determined. By the manual, find common points under the seat and the left and right side handlebars and position handlebars so these distance measurements are equal. Use of the large bolt heads under the seat and a point on each handlebar end works for me. I use a metal yardstick and it comes out 35 -5/16ths".

Now taking the a-tool, we place it under the front of the Spyder and the eyebolts are adjusted till they just touch both rims. Note: 11" is the center point height of the rim and tire. Secure the eyebolts with the nuts.
Not move the a-tool to check the distance between the rims on the back side. Takes a bit of manuvering the tool but is made real easy if a friend helps. Wife maybe? In the distance at the back checks with the front, alignment should be good. This a zero toe in and toe out if they are the same measurements. (For possible reference, 1 full turn on the eyebolt of my a-tool measures 1.25mm.)

Spyder II was off a slight bit. The rear distance was shorter that the front explaining the wearing of the inside of the tires. Whatever the differences are in the two readings, divide by four and that will be the amount you will need to adjust the connecting arm on each side. I used mm, you could use 1/100" or whatever.

I have attached some pictures that should help. I left my a-tool with Bruce today and he has already had an additional thought on how to make it more accurate. NOTE: It is assumed that the rims are of good radial integity. Bruces idea is one to assure rim integrity for the check.

Spyder III now runs on six spokes and brand new Kenda OEM tires. Eager to see how we do. Got coupla LD trips planned August and October.
Sorry for such a long dissertation but this is a problem we need to resolve more simply that by the manual.

Love my Spyder in spite of the imperfections I've experienced.
Bob Buffington
[email protected]
Call 830-739-5902

REMEMBER: IT'S ALL ABOUT JESUS

:2thumbs::clap:Simple genius .

 

[ArmyJoe]

OK Spyder Owners. Here's my shot at offering a method for checking the front wheel for alignment problems.

First off, Dr. Bruce, head Spyder mechanic at my dealer (South Texas Suzuki) is as good as they come for working on Spyders and giving pointers to owners. My first SE-5 had a serious alignment problem. Made 5K trip to Los Angeles Owners Meeting in '09, Tires were showing some uneven wear at 7K as I started the trip. Upon return the inside 3 inches or so of tread was 3/32nds more worn than rest of tire at end of trip. Inside grooves were approaching a slick condition.

July. - Replaced tires and had alignment adjusted with 12K maintenance. As has been reported by others, my dealer confirmed BRP takes no responsibility for original alignment and/or accelerated tire wear probably caused by the mis-alignment. I did take pictures confirming the uneven wear.

Sept. - Three months later had dealer check alignment again for there was a bit of uneven wear showing up. By this time Bruce had improvised an improvement in the alignment equipment and procedure as presented by the BRP Shop Manual. Even wear was being experienced after this 2nd alignment. However at 21K and only 9K miles on the tires, Spyder #1 and I hit a dog and due to a seriously bent front suspension and frame #1 had to be retired to salvage. Tires at the time looked good for several more K miles. Dog didn't survive, however I hardly felt the impact, picking up a few plastic pieces, I drove the Spyder home. Certainly glad I wasn't on my FJR.

Dec '09, purchased Spyder III, SE-5 Demo with non-directional P175/65-R14 Rocky Mountain tires on front. Made in Argentina. Alignment was checked at purchase but at 9700 miles the 175s were showing uneven wear on inside, 1/32nds or so, not too bad but not right either.

Time to innovate. Made my own tool for checking wheel alignments. Took 1" metal tubing and made a square shaped U of 42" total width and 13" standing ends. 11" from floor tapped each end for a 3/8" X 4" eye bolt to be pointed towards each other. Placed a 3/8" nut inside for securing the eyebolt.

It is now important that steering be pointed as straight ahead as can be determined. By the manual, find common points under the seat and the left and right side handlebars and position handlebars so these distance measurements are equal. Use of the large bolt heads under the seat and a point on each handlebar end works for me. I use a metal yardstick and it comes out 35 -5/16ths".

Now taking the a-tool, we place it under the front of the Spyder and the eyebolts are adjusted till they just touch both rims. Note: 11" is the center point height of the rim and tire. Secure the eyebolts with the nuts.
Not move the a-tool to check the distance between the rims on the back side. Takes a bit of manuvering the tool but is made real easy if a friend helps. Wife maybe? In the distance at the back checks with the front, alignment should be good. This a zero toe in and toe out if they are the same measurements. (For possible reference, 1 full turn on the eyebolt of my a-tool measures 1.25mm.)

Spyder II was off a slight bit. The rear distance was shorter that the front explaining the wearing of the inside of the tires. Whatever the differences are in the two readings, divide by four and that will be the amount you will need to adjust the connecting arm on each side. I used mm, you could use 1/100" or whatever.

I have attached some pictures that should help. I left my a-tool with Bruce today and he has already had an additional thought on how to make it more accurate. NOTE: It is assumed that the rims are of good radial integity. Bruces idea is one to assure rim integrity for the check.

Spyder III now runs on six spokes and brand new Kenda OEM tires. Eager to see how we do. Got coupla LD trips planned August and October.
Sorry for such a long dissertation but this is a problem we need to resolve more simply that by the manual.

Love my Spyder in spite of the imperfections I've experienced.
Bob Buffington
[email protected]
Call 830-739-5902

REMEMBER: IT'S ALL ABOUT JESUS

Your method will make the rims parallel with each other, but can't guarantee they're parallel with the bike.

You want the Spyder on the left, not the one on the right:

ETA: And after every alignment, you need to reset the steering angle sensor and torque offset with BUDS.

 

[jrbloise]

Have I heard from Carlo yet?

No. It's been one week since I sent him an email, and so far no reply.

I know he's a busy person with all the work load he must have, so I'll wait patiently for him to respond.

The important thing to me is: will he respond? And how will he respond?

John

 

[jrbloise]

Carlo Called...

No. It's been one week since I sent him an email, and so far no reply.

I know he's a busy person with all the work load he must have, so I'll wait patiently for him to respond.

The important thing to me is: will he respond? And how will he respond?

John

Carlo called this morning a little after 9:00 AM (Central time) and left a message on my cell phone. :2thumbs: I was unable to answer my phone as I was on the golf course at the time he called. I called him back and left him a message. Probably won't hear from him until Monday, but that's ok as I'm glad he tried to get hold of me to discuss this matter. :clap:

John