Was the 'New Battery' put on an external charger for at least 12 hours before installation?? :dontknow:
And were all the battery terminals and the grounds, especially the one near the DPS, checked for tightness & proper grounding before buttoning it all up? :dontknow:
I ask, because failure to do either/both of those have previously been the cause of similar issues on quite a few of our power hungry Spyders, and especially on the pre-2014 Spyders that have a 'less capable' magneto charging system than those 2014 & on that come with an alternator.
Most new batteries only come with a 'light charge' so that they'll start the engine & can then get charged more by the alternator while the vehicle runs. But pre-2014 Spyders have a charge system that will barely do that if everything is in top notch condition & fully charged to start with; so a '
not fully charged before installation' battery might be fine for the first few runs you do, but unless those runs entail
at least a couple of hours of solid running at highway speeds with little power demands (ie. not caning it thru the twisties & working the DPS over-time!) then your new battery will most likely be getting weaker & weaker with every start!! :cus: . Add to that the fact that the DPS is one of the most power hungry things on our Spyders, which is why they have a ground so close - but that ground is pretty hard to get at & can be very difficult to cinch up tight, so the improper ground that often results leads to exactly the issue IdahoMS mentioned! Do you
really need to ask me how I know that
BOTH of these conditions occur & are a right pain?!? :banghead:
So even if everything was hunky dory & worked fine a couple of days ago, because those are the things you've most recently played with as well as the above, then they'd be the things I'd be checking first!! :lecturef_smilie: . While it's not as good as a proper Battery load & charging system test, even a basic multi-meter can help check all this - if your resting battery doesn't have more than about 12.4 or .5 volts showing as a bare minimum (ie, rested overnight & voltage checked before trying
anything!) &/or if it drops below 11 volts when actually cranking to start &/or if the running voltage doesn't get above
at least 12.6 volts, or better yet, make 13 or so volts, then the battery &/or charging system is the likely cause of your problem. And if the battery is New, then the
most likely cause of that early failure is no pre-installation charging or poor connections/grounds somewhere - altho it could also be just a dud battery! :gaah:
Over to you, and Good Luck! :cheers: