Another successful mount
Do not mean to highjack the thread, but added material here to make it easier for other forum users to find information in one location.
I just installed a Zumo 350 on a Spyder RT with A/C, heavily "inspired" from other user's experience and recommendations.
Here are my thoughts/advice if you consider doing the install: Note that I had never removed any tupperware before this.
- It is worth it. IHMO beats hands down BRP's factory location. (I first did a test ride with temporary install close to the factory location)
- Remove the body parts to have good access to your work area. Even though there is a long list of body parts to remove, they are all easy to remove if you follow the instructions. Don't let that discourage you. Just do it when you are not in a rush or don't have a deadline.
- Get the shop manual. Do your search in the forum, there are many available. I paid $24 for mine and I am satisfied. It helped me a lot identifying what to remove and in which order.
- Measure, measure, measure. Once you think you have found a location on the dashboard where you think the GPS base should go, check what's underneath. I used my kid's play-doh and squished it between the 2 pieces of the console to figure out how mush space I had for the lock nut and washer, and I found out it is pretty tight in many areas.
- Find the exact location where you want it to be and do the drilling on a good work bench. You don't get a second chance.
After crosschecking with the electrical diagrams, I followed NancyToys advice on the power hookup
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?42602-GPS-Power-Source-Question.
Here are a few pics of the install. The original High-Res pics can be seen here:
http://bchauvette.smugmug.com/Forums/Spyder-Forums/22362150_fb2wtC
Do yourself a favor: remove the body parts and get a good access to the working area:
Mark your location. Note that I ended up locating the mount further left (viewed from the driver's position) after I realized there was some obstruction below one of my planned screw location.
Look for obstruction and check the clearance under your planned location. (I used Play-Doh and measured clearance)
I used a square RAM mount plate with large washers underneath for increased stability. I also selected a short RAM connecting arm to reduce the chances of unit vibrating on harsh roads.
In my mount, one of the screws ended up a bit too close to the edge and it was a bit of a struggle to slide the console cover back into its location. Do not mount it any closer to the edge than I did.
I used power taps on the fuel gauge to get the power
Having removed the console cover gave me a good location to install the Gamin power module:
I attached the power cable to prevent it from being pulled out too far, but gave it enough loose to allow the GPS position to be adjusted. I only slotted the lower portion of the console to run the cable and did not touch the cover to make it less noticeable.
Pics of the final product:
Mounted on the left, I found the GPS is easier to reach and it occupies an area that is already obstructed by the windshield mount so it could be a good option for shorter riders.
My first test ride showed that the overall mounting is very sturdy and very stable. You really have to look hard to see any vibration that does not follow the console itself, even on rough roads. I am extremely happy with the end results and I am glad I did it.
Tx to all other forum members who's posts helped me make this a successful install.
...Ben...
hyea:
. This time use a short 3" arm. When mounting the arm place a penny washer about 30 mm in diam both under and over the mounting hole. This will stiffen up the plastic nicely and take away any tendency for it to flex under the weight of the arm/sat-nav combination. 
