Motorhome-Truck-Spyder

[mifunk]

Here are some pictures of my new Spyder travel rig. I travel the US quite a bit in my motorhome while flat towing a vehicle behind. When I got my Spyder this year I had to do some thinking about how to take it with me while I travel and still have a car too. I thought about a Hydra Lift on the back of the motorhome and then tow the vehicle behind. Trouble with that setup would be having to unhook towed vehicle and all tow bars etc just to get the Spyder off. I then thought about a big trailer but length would have been a problem with a 42 foot motorhome and 26' trailer. Plus having to strap both vehicles down etc.


I then came across this device from Amerideck. I load the Spyder on when its level on the ground, a couple straps and hit the button. A hydraulic arm lifts the platform and loads it in the bed of the truck. Very quick, simple and easy. They are made in western Pennsylvania but have dealers all over. I found this unit used on Craigslist for 1400 dollars. New they are around 5000 dollars. This is the 6 1/2" unit which I had to modify it by making an extension to fit the Spyder but it works well. They do make an 8' deck too. I'm going to add airbag helper springs on the truck just to level it out. Now I can flat tow the truck behind the motorhome and still have the Spyder too.

 

[Chupaca]

Wow...!!

great deal on the lift. Have seen them here before or similar. Once you load all your stuff you must be a sight to see...:clap: glad you found such a good solutions for your travels...:thumbup:.

 

[Easy Rider]

Please let us know how this all works out.
Having a significant portion of the Spyder's weight behind the back wheels might upset the steering......maybe ??

Of course if you never drive the truck with the Spyder still in the bed, that won't be a problem.

 

[PrairieSpyder]

Here are some pictures of my new Spyder travel rig. I travel the US quite a bit in my motorhome while flat towing a vehicle behind. When I got my Spyder this year I had to do some thinking about how to take it with me while I travel and still have a car too. I thought about a Hydra Lift on the back of the motorhome and then tow the vehicle behind. Trouble with that setup would be having to unhook towed vehicle and all tow bars etc just to get the Spyder off. I then thought about a big trailer but length would have been a problem with a 42 foot motorhome and 26' trailer. Plus having to strap both vehicles down etc.


I then came across this device from Amerideck. I load the Spyder on when its level on the ground, a couple straps and hit the button. A hydraulic arm lifts the platform and loads it in the bed of the truck. Very quick, simple and easy. They are made in western Pennsylvania but have dealers all over. I found this unit used on Craigslist for 1400 dollars. New they are around 5000 dollars. This is the 6 1/2" unit which I had to modify it by making an extension to fit the Spyder but it works well. They do make an 8' deck too. I'm going to add airbag helper springs on the truck just to level it out. Now I can flat tow the truck behind the motorhome and still have the Spyder too.

I am also considering a Hydra Lift. So I'm interested in something like this. Is that a short bed on your pick-up? Do you just go without the tail-gate? Or do you take it along and put it back on the truck when you're stopped at a place for a while?

 

[mifunk]

My truck is a 2015 F150. The bed is 6 1/2 foot bed which is the "long bed" for the 4 door F150 truck. To get an 8' bed I would have had to go up to a F250. I specifically wanted a 2015 or newer due to the aluminum body. It gives it a better payload capacity. I took it for a ride the way it is in the pics and it seemed to ride okay. I am adding the helper air springs to level out the truck but I think it should be okay.

The red rollers on the back of the bed portion of the lift will not allow the tailgate to close. I have thought about cutting them off and sleeving them to make them removable. That way the tailgate can be used with the lift arm in the bed. The way it is now you can't have the tailgate on. The lift arm would not be able to reach over it.

 

[Eviltwin]

Please let us know how this all works out.
Having a significant portion of the Spyder's weight behind the back wheels might upset the steering......maybe ??

Of course if you never drive the truck with the Spyder still in the bed, that won't be a problem.

First of all, I appreciate the thought and engineering that went in to putting this together. But I gotta wonder how well that truck will ride with that much weight behind the rear wheels. Ideally, the weight should be between the front and rear wheels for the best handling. In this case, much of the weight of the bike is aft of the rear wheel. And you also have the weight of the lift itself added in. Helper springs will stiffen up the back, but you still have the moment arm effect of a heavy object several feet behind the rear wheel that will want to pick up the front wheels after going over a large bump as it heads down. That's why weight distributing hitches are used for large heavy trailers, they lock the frame of the tow vehicle in line with the frame of the trailer which effectively takes a good percentage of the weight off the hitch and rear wheel and moves it to the front for safer handling.

It also looks like the weight of the rig is higher up then just something sitting in the bed. That may make it ride top heavy as well.

If you never drive the truck but only tow it with the bike in the back, then it may be fine, but I would keep an eye on the tire wear over time.

 

[mifunk]

I share the concerns about the weight distribution of this set up. A couple things I took into consideration.

The Spyder has approx. 60% weight on the front wheel (about 600lbs) which are in front of the trucks rear wheel. Also the deck itself is heavier in the front with the extra steel for the bulkhead. The lift unit in the bed is heavier in front too as the motor and pump as well as the lift arm are in the front.

I'll report back once I get some miles on this set up and let you know how it rides.

 

[UtahPete]

My truck is a 2015 F150. The bed is 6 1/2 foot bed which is the "long bed" for the 4 door F150 truck. To get an 8' bed I would have had to go up to a F250. I specifically wanted a 2015 or newer due to the aluminum body. It gives it a better payload capacity. I took it for a ride the way it is in the pics and it seemed to ride okay. I am adding the helper air springs to level out the truck but I think it should be okay.

The red rollers on the back of the bed portion of the lift will not allow the tailgate to close. I have thought about cutting them off and sleeving them to make them removable. That way the tailgate can be used with the lift arm in the bed. The way it is now you can't have the tailgate on. The lift arm would not be able to reach over it.

Is the total loaded weight within the truck's GVWR?

 

[mifunk]

Is the total loaded weight within the truck's GVWR?

Its going to be close. GVWR is 7050. Empty truck is around 5000. Spyder is 1050. And lift is around 600-800.

I'm going to take it to the scales to get it weighed

 

[dondje]

Platforms come in 4', 6' 8' & 10' lengths. The 6' would work for loading the Spyder side to side.


Regards,


Don




This is what I am building for behind my MH.

 

[mifunk]

Platforms come in 4', 6' 8' & 10' lengths. The 6' would work for loading the Spyder side to side.


Regards,


Don

View attachment 168096


This is what I am building for behind my MH.View attachment 168097

I like your design for the trailer. I considered that as an option too. I'm surprised there aren't more companies out there making trailers for this application.

 

[mifunk]

I got the air helper springs on and it definitely helped bring the back end up to level. I only have 50 PSI in them in this picture. I took it for a ride and it handles well. Highway speeds were not a problem.

 

[Lin]

I like the lift and that it rides nice. I would caution you though about keeping the cover on the Spyder when traveling. I was an industrial fabric worker for 30+ years. Nothing destroyed fabrics quicker than movement in wind against an immovable object. It will pay a toll to the Spyder where the cover rubs against it.

Lin

 

[Eviltwin]

View attachment 168155


I got the air helper springs on and it definitely helped bring the back end up to level. I only have 50 PSI in them in this picture. I took it for a ride and it handles well. Highway speeds were not a problem.

That last picture you posted shows where the bike and lift are sitting in the bed better than the previous ones posted did. The balance point of an RT is roughly where the front drivers peg is mounted. From the photo it looks like the balance point of the spyder is behind the the rear wheel by a couple of inches and the center of the rear wheel is maybe 4 feet behind the center of the rear axle. If the bike weighs roughly 1000 lbs, then you have about 500 lbs x 4 feet from the rear axle making 2000 ft lbs of torque that will push down on the back of the truck and will cause the front wheels to have less weight than if the truck was unladen or loaded with the load between the axles. You also have the 600 lbs of the lift to factor in as well, some of which will also be pushing down well behind the truck.

The other point that was brought up is the GVWR of the truck which is 7050. If the truck is 5000 and the lift and bike are about 16-1800, then you are at 6600 to 6800 and you are not accounting for drivers weight and any cargo or fluids which are usually not counted in the base weight of the vehicle.

I would take the rig as loaded to a scale that will weigh all four wheels and see what the fronts are bearing vs the rears. Keep in mind that driving down the road straight and level isn't what is going to be the deciding factor in terms of safety. It's going to be what happens if you have to swerve or if you go over a large bump or pothole and the weight in the back really pushes down hard and picks up the fronts. Adding helper springs just stiffens up the suspension in the back but doesnt do anything to change the physics of where the extra weight is (way too far back and 2-3 feet higher then just sitting in the bed). And by making the rear suspension that much more stiff you are putting more of the shock absorbing work on the tires themselves. Kind of like riding a hard tail bike with the only suspension being the rear tire itself.

I have a class c as well and struggled with what to do for a Toad. The RT we got was actually bought to use as a Toad and we got a aluminum trailer to carry the bike. Before we had the coach, I had a pickup and towed a vintage airstream. You always have to look at worse case scenarios so that you have a margin of safety in all that you do. If you get into an accident either towing or driving, the cops and or insurance may find you at fault if you exceeded the recommended specs for loading the truck or the tow rig.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This is what I am building for behind my MH.View attachment 168097

You will want to take a good hard look at all the weights involved. With this setup I believe you can easily go well above the safe towing limit of the RV. I looked at getting an RV several years ago. One of the things I learned was that most motorhomes come from the factory with weights very near the chassis load capacity and therefore not very much towing capacity. The RV guy said most motorhomes on the highway pulling toads are overloaded. So, just be careful!

 

[mifunk]

You will want to take a good hard look at all the weights involved. With this setup I believe you can easily go well above the safe towing limit of the RV. I looked at getting an RV several years ago. One of the things I learned was that most motorhomes come from the factory with weights very near the chassis load capacity and therefore not very much towing capacity. The RV guy said most motorhomes on the highway pulling toads are overloaded. So, just be careful!

I agree that a lot of motorhomes come from the factory at or near the max weight allowed, but not all. I bought mine with a tag axle specifically to handle the weight. It is rated to pull 10,000 lbs so this set up shouldn't be a problem for the RV. I would not try to pull this set up with a smaller class C.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I bought mine with a tag axle specifically to handle the weight. It is rated to pull 10,000 lbs so this set up shouldn't be a problem for the RV. I would not try to pull this set up with a smaller class C.

Here's the site where I got my info about 10 years ago. https://rv.org/. From everything I saw the guy does a reputable job of reviewing and comparing RVs. A lot of info he discusses gave me second thoughts about ever RVing. He's not connected to any RV manufacturer or dealership, except his own if he has one, which I don't think he does. His ratings are not free. You buy his publications.

Sounds like you've done a better job of buying than most probably most do.

 

[dondje]

I like your design for the trailer. I considered that as an option too. I'm surprised there aren't more companies out there making trailers for this application.

There are a few manufacturers that make the tandem tow dolly with decks up to 10'. I know of one that makes a double decker, but it uses ramps on one side to drive atvs to the top level. I want to have hydraulically lifted rails to winch the boat trailer up. Think double decker car trailer.

Regards,

Don

 

[dondje]

You will want to take a good hard look at all the weights involved. With this setup I believe you can easily go well above the safe towing limit of the RV. I looked at getting an RV several years ago. One of the things I learned was that most motorhomes come from the factory with weights very near the chassis load capacity and therefore not very much towing capacity. The RV guy said most motorhomes on the highway pulling toads are overloaded. So, just be careful!

Weight is definitely an issue. My mh has a 10k tow limit. I pull a (2) or (3) horse trailer most the time. Never with more than (2) horses. I changed the chinsy class III hitch that it came with to a custom class V that has rails that run all the way past the factory chassis connection to just behind the mh rear wheels. Always have good quality brakes and controller for the trailers.
I am figuring about 9k pulling with the VW Golf and about 8k with the CJ5. Note the "TRAILER TOAD" behind the mh in the pic. Using it, means that there is no trailer tongue weight on the mh. This also adds an extra set of brakes in addition to the tow dolly, and helps a great deal with keeping the mh level, stable, and easy to control.

BTW: Hoping to get a Freightliner chassis class B mh and a 24' enclosed stacker trailer when I retire. If so, then I can take the all the toys. It has a 20k tow limit.

Regards,

Don

 

[bluewoo]

Yup its over weight, I have 2000 LBS on the bed with 1700 payload so pick on me and leave mifunk alone. LOL

Enjoy your set up mifunk -looks great and want to see all of it hooked up when you go on a trip!!!