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motor problem HELP From the motor guru's

dabreitbach

New member
I was getting alot of valve train noise again so I pulled off the rear valve cover and found the same thing wrong I had 2 years ago http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?14328-Bad-Motor. Does any body have any Idea what is causing this. Everything timing chain and gear wise was supposedly changed the last time. Could this be a bad chain tensioner thats causing this??? Any ideas? Everything else is fine. The valves are still in spec. Front cyclinder is fine. Just the back one like last time. Oh the geneus's that fixed it the last time left off the two bolts that hold the upper chain guide on. :yikes::yikes::yikes: I wonder what else they forgot. I put about 20,000 miles on it since it was fixed 2 years ago.

Any Ideas guess's. Lamont,BahaRon,Nancy's toy?????????????????
 
Sorry to hear this. I have no idea what would be causing it. Even close inspection would not give as much clue as putting it back together would. Could be bad parts, bad machining, bad alignment, improper adjustment, or another part impinging on the tensioner or chain. This is certainly not a common issue. With the second occurance, I would suspect a fundamental problem with that particular engine, I'm sad to say. Unless they can find an actual cause, instead of merely repairing the damage, it is likely to happen again.
 
My expert opinon is your MODs are messing up the cam chain! You must have added only those mods that affect the rear cylinder though!:roflblack: Sorry, could not resist!

I am not real clear on what the cause was for the 1st incident, or what exactly the dealership did to repair it (other than leave some parts out). Sounds like a great bunch of people though! They gave you warranty work.... On a warranty issue! How generous! Especially considering that your Mods were the cause! (Ok, I'll stop)

The assumption (which gets everyone in trouble every time it's tried) is that they replaced at least the tensioner and chain. They may also have replaced the the cam shaft sprocket, but I doubt it.

Could be they replaced only the tensioner. If they left the original chain and sprocket the new tensioner would only be a temporary fix. Still, 20k miles is more than just temporary. An unevenly stretched chain will give a chain tensioner fits and if bad enough can break the tensioner. A stretched chain will contine to stretch in the already stretched area, which is the weakest area of the chain.

You say that the upper chain guide bolts were left off on the 1st fix. That is not encouraging. I don't know if that could have affected other components that took awhile to fail. How was this oversight discovered? And I agree, what esle did they forget to do.

Have you looked at it yet? Is there obvious broken parts like last time?
 
You say that the upper chain guide bolts were left off on the 1st fix. That is not encouraging. I don't know if that could have affected other components that took awhile to fail. How was this oversight discovered? And I agree, what esle did they forget to do.

Have you looked at it yet? Is there obvious broken parts like last time?

I pulled the valve cover off both times myself. This time its exactly the same as the first (except the first time the upper chain guide bolts were in). The last time I went to the dealer when I found it. This time I think I am going to do it myself. I do have best warrenty but I can do all the work while the engines in the chasis and can really take the time to look it over real well( and put all the bolts back in plus the two that are missing.) The parts are under $200 bucks and after the $50 deductable its not worth the hassel or time or screwups to save $150. I figure it will take 2-3 hours.
If I find something major then I will go from there but I'm gunshy of letting ANYBODY else touch this.

I just looked again and it is Exactly 2 years from the first time.:gaah::gaah::gaah:
 
I pulled the valve cover off both times myself. This time its exactly the same as the first (except the first time the upper chain guide bolts were in). The last time I went to the dealer when I found it. This time I think I am going to do it myself. I do have best warrenty but I can do all the work while the engines in the chasis and can really take the time to look it over real well( and put all the bolts back in plus the two that are missing.) The parts are under $200 bucks and after the $50 deductable its not worth the hassel or time or screwups to save $150. I figure it will take 2-3 hours.
If I find something major then I will go from there but I'm gunshy of letting ANYBODY else touch this.

I just looked again and it is Exactly 2 years from the first time.:gaah::gaah::gaah:

It has to be a defect of some kind. Could be one defect is causing issues with other parts. Let us know what you find. I'd be very tempted to do the same thing (fix it myself) rather than take it back to the same place.
 
With respect............

I'm sorry but I have no experience with this engine but asking a question will help me understand the mechanics of the system.
Do we have one or two camshaft drive chains in this engine...?...the fact that you indicate that the problem is limited to just one cylinder makes me want to suggest checking the runout or alignment of that particular drive sprocket at the crank.
 
You could have unequal stretching caused by a slightly weaker link. Hold the chain on it's side and see if there is a droop in it.
I'm assuming that you'll at least replace the chain and the associated drive sprockets.
Be very careful during assembly...no sharp 90 degree edges anywhere...use yer nekkid fingertips to feel for surface imperfections....but hell, you already know that.
I miss doing what you are about to do. For years I used to help my Dad with his machines....singles from 250 to 500 and because of the business he was in...heavy rolling mill manufacture...my KSS Velo ended up with an overhead cam head....I had the job of filing the tappets from tool steel...!!!
Keep us posted with maybe some photos
 
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