Monster Fuel Injection Stage 2 Flash - F3T 2016

[308gunner]

So you are saying ECU flash before cat delete / exhaust?

Yes...do the ECU flash first.

 

[JS3535]

I would do the cat delete & flash at the same time. Just my opinion (learned from experiences)

 

[blacklightning]

Okay....strong bit of advice ...before you do anything pertaining to your exhaust, do your map first...then look into the exhaust.

That sounds strange. So are you saying that if you do the ECU remap, the computer will pick up the exhaust changes and make the appropriate changes? I actually thought you would need to give your bike specs before getting the ECU tune. Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[308gunner]

You can do it either way..but ..I wouldn't do so due to the fact of your motor running too lean because you're getting more air and not fuel...because you changed your exhaust...I agree with js535..the best way is to do them both at the same time...but if you're on a budget..do the flash first. that way you're not running lean prior to installing the map...my mechanic gave me this advice...

 

[Dennis in Lodi]

As I mentioned in my previous post I have the Monster stage 2 ECU flash and cat delete pipe without baffle on my Spyder and I am very very satisfied with the performance
When I tried the same setup but WITH the baffle I didn't like it because it felt restricted/ suffocated, especially when giving full throttle at any rpm's.
Today I decided I had to try the Monster stage 2 in combination with cat and stock muffler (= original stock factory setup) and I was truly surprised when I took the Spyder for a spin and realized it had just about the same performance but without the annoying and very loud exhaust note I had with the cat delete! ��
It really is a lot more enjoying to drive when not disturbing the neighbors or having to wear ear protection anymore. Especially since the performance is still very good '

I verified the same experience. I went back to all stock exhaust and was hard pressed to notice any power loss. Owning two ECUs, stage 1 and stage 2, I went back to stage 1 ECU flash, covered the holes in the filter cover that stage 2 required. I'm getting older, but I like the quiet exhaust of stock and have basically no power loss. There is a definite honking intake noise when the holes are open on the top of the air filter that is a modification requirement for stage 2 flash.
Stage 2 flash has a noticeable power advantage that really kicks in above 7,000 rpm. But with all the new lower power the flash delivers down low, I just don't rev that high anymore.
So just to confirm other posts, it DOES NOT MATTER which flash or which combination of exhaust, our Spyders adjust to all combinations.
Just wanted to share
Dennis
BTW, I am willing to part with my RLS delete and Spyder 1 Stainless exhaust. I have over $1,000 invested in my set up. It has a combination of three in line baffles. It can be reasonably quiet when need be, and has a good bark when you get on the power. $300 plus shipping OBO. PM me if interested for pics. This is a flashy set up of stainless and Chrome. Only fits RT, F3L and F3T.

 

[JS3535]

I currently have the cat delete with baffle & stock muffler, and stage 1. With the new mods I did (F3ST) it’s actually louder in my helmet. I think the exhaust echos off the ground & my windshield which I’m right in the middle of. I would really like to try a T or L muffler on mine to see how it sounds. I thought I was going to get away from running ear buds & just use helmet speakers but no such luck.

 

[CoolSpyder2014]

Hello, wanting to do this ecu mod. But have a few questions. How do tell if you have Generation 1 or 2, or other, with regards to the Rev limiter? And the mod for the air box, is that to make room for a modded ecm stage 2, or just air flow?

 

[guhn67]

Wildrice I too have the stage 2 remap with RLS Cat Delete with two additional baffles on a F3-S Daytona. This thing pulls like a rocket. However off the line absolutely NO tire spin. I had considered putting my Cat back on. Just to see if it is a back pressure issue.

 

[wmh9680]

What exactly is the cat delete and what does it do for you

 

[Bottomline2000]

Interested in how yours performs with the stock cat back on. I have a Daytona also with just the Akrapovic Sinister pipe. Am I running lean with no tune?No bark off the line but it picks up fast. I was expecting more off the line snap. Are you saying the stage 2 didnt help or could it be the baffles you're running? I'm considering the stage 2 and RLS cat delete.

 

[akbash]

Stage two with RLS cat delete with no added baffles and sinister performs and sounds awesome. Real deep tone and great decel sound. Lots of power from bottom to top. When you have sport mode on gets even better.

 

[AY4B]

Interested in how yours performs with the stock cat back on. I have a Daytona also with just the Akrapovic Sinister pipe. Am I running lean with no tune?No bark off the line but it picks up fast. I was expecting more off the line snap. Are you saying the stage 2 didnt help or could it be the baffles you're running? I'm considering the stage 2 and RLS cat delete.

Do it! It will make that Daytona a beast!

 

[wmh9680]

What exactly is the cat delete and how much/what does it do. Thanks Mike

 

[wmh9680]

I just got mine back from upgrading from Stage 1 to Stage 2 and I emphasize Upgrade!
Though I was somewhat happy with the Stage 1, I did find that my Spyder (2014 RT-Ltd) ran rough & jerky on take off when it was cold.
I couldn't wipe the smile off my face after taking it for a rip after installing the ECU with the Stage 2 flash.
The Spyder runs sooo smooth and the throttle response just couldn't be better!!!
Some have mentioned that the addition of the 2 air holes added to the airbox lid was noisy, to be honest I never noticed any increase in volume. The test ride was with stock cat & muffle. (Cat Delete pipe is on the work bench ready to install) :yes:

Got any pics od the air box lid with the holes in it? Thanks, Mike

 

[troop]

3/4" or 1"hole saw works great

 

[PMK]

3/4" or 1"hole saw works great

Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.

Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.

On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.

The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.

There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.

Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.

Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.

Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.

 

[troop]

Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.

Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.

On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.

The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.

There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.

Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.

Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.

Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.

This isn't my idea. This is where Monster/Wicked drill the holes for their stage 2 ECU flash. You'll have to ask them..

 

[PMK]

This isn't my idea. This is where Monster/Wicked drill the holes for their stage 2 ECU flash. You'll have to ask them..

Likely they are adding airflow for WOT, and surrendering some efficiency at all throttle setting and preferring obtaining maximum power. Would be very interesting to compare real world driving performance number of no holes in the airbox lid vs holes in the airbox lid at various throttle settings.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.

Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.

On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.

The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.

There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.

Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.

Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.

Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.

Thank you, thank you, thank you PMK …… this is similar to what I have posted on other similar threads ….. However on the air turbulence thing, on the Spyder it occurs BEFORE the AIR filter element which imho calms the air significantly ….. I have pics in one of my Albums ( see Shock re-locators on RT 13+ ) of what my Air Intake looks like on my 2014 RT...… Because I wanted to be able to re-move my Frunk easily ( and often ) I built my new intake with a ( sort of ) SLIP Joint..... I can re-move my Frunk and then replace it in about 15 minutes. … My intake air comes from Outside the Spyder and is at Ambient temp.... good luck all …… Mike hyea:

 

[PMK]

Thank you, thank you, thank you PMK …… this is similar to what I have posted on other similar threads ….. However on the air turbulence thing, on the Spyder it occurs BEFORE the AIR filter element which imho calms the air significantly ….. I have pics in one of my Albums ( see Shock re-locators on RT 13+ ) of what my Air Intake looks like on my 2014 RT...… Because I wanted to be able to re-move my Frunk easily ( and often ) I built my new intake with a ( sort of ) SLIP Joint..... I can re-move my Frunk and then replace it in about 15 minutes. … My intake air comes from Outside the Spyder and is at Ambient temp.... good luck all …… Mike hyea:

Yes a filter can often straighten or align airflow. The Spyder design is not bad but air enters the airbox from the side. Would be better from the end.

As for the primary duct, as curved as it is, the cross sections are adequate for the engines oem setup. Add to this it is true cold air induction at a good location free of low pressures and that adds efficiency. One downside of the design on 14 to 19 RT series is the reversing fans.

The secondary duct and still airbox serve to smooth turbulence and muffle intake drone. I did have a couple mods I still plan to make regarding the intake tract, just time has not allowed it yet.