miss ryding

[TicketBait]

miss ryding over 11 weeks now

Took bike to dealership;

Feb 10th 2011 for oil change and to replace rear tire.14,844 mileage

March 22nd 16,813 mileage

they added chrome handle bar accessory,

April 9th while out at Berts Mega mall to go on canyon CruiseBike goes into limp mode& they determine Oil sensor fail & disconnected while part on order.(since I have a functioning oil pressure gauge on dash.

Before Spyderfest:
Took bike to dealership April 12th 18060 miles

18k service performed

Oil Sensor - on order, pd for rush but no time left to install

Throttle body not working per BUDS (day before i leave) -replaced(major job) swapped from another new unit.


I leave for visit in Texas and then to Spyderfest, Cuba MO-Have time of my life!!

Took bike in after Spyderfest to fix or replace numerous items.May 10th 22,432 mileage

Rear Shock- replaced

Garmin -not charging- started charging on ot's own again after other stuff was replaced

Oil pressure switch - replaced

Radio inoperative- replaced

XM inoperative- replaced

Display Cluster- replaced to fix CB transmission delay with 2011 Dispaly cluster

Went to pick up on July 2nd- told bike had been road tested and everything working Told they had spent 26 hrs and were reimbursed for 15 hrs and that over 3k in parts were replaced under warranty. Yhey also put the water kit in my trailer which I paid them for and was on my way ..............No sooner do I go about 300 feet and the parking brake engages, I turn around and a new repair order and date are submitted.:gaah::helpsmilie:



Parking brake malfunction They have shipped 3 parts over the last 2 1/2 months and it still hasn't fixed the issue. What happens was at first the parking brake would engage prematurely when I was coming to a stop at about 1-2 mph. This happened to me twice before I left for Spyderfest. The dealership ran out of time to look at the issue before I left on my 4k mile trip. And the whole way out it never re occurred. It only reoccurred when I was at Cowtown, the last day and luck of the draw, I was fortunate that Kurt Ottesen from BRP was there and he spent a couple hours trying to diagnose the issue with his laptop computer. It was very intermittent at the time. He wasn't sure and with his limited time thought that disconnection of my after market oil and battery gages might be the culprit. I got as far as New Mexico and the parking brake malfunctioned again. But only about 3 more times till I got home.

I went over to the dealership on Friday after they installed the last part, and there were no happy faces, as the bike this time did not pass the test ride. In fact now we have learned that by just turning the bike on, not even starting it, and if you stomp/pound with your foot on the floor board you can get the parking brake light to come on and set. The only part that has not been checked and replaced is the parking brake motor as this was not in the flow chart from BRP.

So my question to you spyderlovers is what could be causing this?And how do you fix it? I am not mechanically inclined and allot of the words are foreign to me, this weekend I have done allot of "search on parking brake" in this forum. I read about low volts, Since my gauge was determined by my dealership not to be the culprit, the volt display is indicating 12.7 when turned to the on position. I remember when just turning on the bike it would normally fluctuate between 12.3-12.8 so this seems normal.

What info can I go back to the dealership tomorrow morning to have them try or ask the BRP tech team.

Is it possible that some wire melted with another or there is a bad relay switch :dontknow: or, yes I am crying

Dealership says they have tried everything except replacing parking brake motor. But that wasn't in flow chart. I know I repeated myself. I am having sleepless nights and spyder riding withdrawals.


This is a last ditch effort to see if I can get it fixed before Spyder in the Redwoods I signed up for, I was gonna leave at the end of the week.

ticketbait:helpsmilie:

 

[boborgera]

I'd just disconnect the darn thing. I completely remove my parking brake and I carry a small set of chocks should I ever need them. I just park in gear.

:agree: 86 it , Ask them to order a new P brake motor and have them install the new motor when it comes in.

 

[Y Rider]

I'd just disconnect the darn thing. I completely remove my parking brake and I carry a small set of chocks should I ever need them. I just park in gear.

He has a SE5 so leaving it in gear will not work. Wheel chocks will work but only on a flat surface. If on an incline someone would have to chock the wheels while holding down the brake.

 

[packbuckbrew]

You can park in gear with SE5

 

[Y Rider]

You can park in gear with SE5

Yes you can but it will roll away on a hill. It's not like the manual transmission.

 

[dabreitbach]

Some where there is a short that shows up under vibration. They need to take a small hammer and start tappindg differen't places to narrow it down and find it. If it does it all the time now then something they moved while doing the repair is the culprit. They just have to start tapping to find it. It will take time but can be done. Good luck.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I'm having problems with my parking brake also but not like yours. I left my Spyder at the dealer today and told them that if they can't clear the brake failure message to not do anything else to it as I'm leaving on Wednesday for Spyders in the Adirondacks.

My brake is working but I can't get the brake failure message to go away. I sure hope you get yours fixed so you can go to the Redwoods.

 

[NancysToy]

So my question to you spyderlovers is what could be causing this?And how do you fix it? I am not mechanically inclined and allot of the words are foreign to me, this weekend I have done allot of "search on parking brake" in this forum. I read about low volts, Since my gauge was determined by my dealership not to be the culprit, the volt display is indicating 12.7 when turned to the on position. I remember when just turning on the bike it would normally fluctuate between 12.3-12.8 so this seems normal.

This is actually a fairly simple system. The dash switch causes the WPM (Windshield & Parking Brake Module) to engage the parking brake motor, which pulls on the cable to engage the brake. The switch and motor each have two intermediate wiring harnesses between them and the WPM. If they have replaced the WPM, and have replaced the wiring harnesses, the motor is all that is left, but I would be surprised if they did anything more than replace the module and look at it mechanically. Since the footboard seems to cause it, I would look for a wiring short in that area, possibly near a mounting bolt. A couple of bared wires could easily short, causing such a problem, and that problem would get progressively worse, like yours. I would also test by disconnecting one component at a time, to isolate the prolem area. Since the footboard seems to enter into the equation, I wouldn't chase it at the handlebar unless all else failed, but it would be possible (though very rare) for the windshield switch to falsely trigger the brake, since htey use the same module.

Yes you can but it will roll away on a hill. It's not like the manual transmission.

:agree: The centrifugal clutch is not engaged when the engine is not running above the engagement rpm. The same thing that allows you to sit and idle in gear, will allow the Spyder to roll.

I'm having problems with my parking brake also but not like yours. I left my Spyder at the dealer today and told them that if they can't clear the brake failure message to not do anything else to it as I'm leaving on Wednesday for Spyders in the Adirondacks.

My brake is working but I can't get the brake failure message to go away. I sure hope you get yours fixed so you can go to the Redwoods.

My guess here would be a bad parking brake switch, water in a connector, or a wiring fault. It could also be either the main cluster or the WPM, but that seems unlikely. This should be able to be pinned down by disconnecting compenents and connectors.

 

[TicketBait]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I am going to show them all of these.

I'd just disconnect the darn thing. I completely remove my parking brake and I carry a small set of chocks should I ever need them. I just park in gear.

He has a SE5 so leaving it in gear will not work. Wheel chocks will work but only on a flat surface. If on an incline someone would have to chock the wheels while holding down the brake.

So my temporary option if they can't find the break in the wire so I can go the trip is to bring along chocks, I can do that.

Some where there is a short that shows up under vibration. They need to take a small hammer and start tappindg differen't places to narrow it down and find it. If it does it all the time now then something they moved while doing the repair is the culprit. They just have to start tapping to find it. It will take time but can be done. Good luck.

This is actually a fairly simple system. The dash switch causes the WPM (Windshield & Parking Brake Module) to engage the parking brake motor, which pulls on the cable to engage the brake. The switch and motor each have two intermediate wiring harnesses between them and the WPM. If they have replaced the WPM, and have replaced the wiring harnesses, the motor is all that is left, but I would be surprised if they did anything more than replace the module and look at it mechanically. Since the footboard seems to cause it, I would look for a wiring short in that area, possibly near a mounting bolt. A couple of bared wires could easily short, causing such a problem, and that problem would get progressively worse, like yours. I would also test by disconnecting one component at a time, to isolate the prolem area. Since the footboard seems to enter into the equation, I wouldn't chase it at the handlebar unless all else failed, but it would be possible (though very rare) for the windshield switch to falsely trigger the brake, since htey use the same module.


:agree: The centrifugal clutch is not engaged when the engine is not running above the engagement rpm. The same thing that allows you to sit and idle in gear, will allow the Spyder to roll.


My guess here would be a bad parking brake switch, water in a connector, or a wiring fault. It could also be either the main cluster or the WPM, but that seems unlikely. This should be able to be pinned down by disconnecting compenents and connectors.

Yes a new WPM module was sent.

This is what Kurt Otteson initially found, (orange wire) they said they wrapped it up good and tight. I am going to ask if my dealership replaced this wiring section. I probably wasn't entirely clear in my statement about stomping on the floorboard to cause enough vibration to the bike so that the brake will activate on its own.

Is it a visible break I am looking for or also a loose ground connection? Also how many components might be tied into this, anything they can rule out?

I am gonna bring my ipad down to dealership in a couple hours when they open and hope for the best.

 

[boborgera]

Is it a visible break I am looking for or also a loose ground connection? Also how many components might be tied into this, anything they can rule out?[/B]

I am gonna bring my ipad down to dealership in a couple hours when they open and hope for the best.

:dontknow:
Correct me I'm wrong But was there a tap on the orange wire going to the red wire with the open spade, and it was removed. both of those wires should be insulated so they don't short out.

 

[TicketBait]

They were re taped up. Dealership is on phone with BRP tech team right now and has authorized to check everything starting from the parking brake switch bach:2thumbs:

 

[NancysToy]

The orange wire should be for the running lights (taillights and markers). I don't think it is monitored, but noise on that circuit could be a proplem. Tape is not a good permanent fix, unless the self-vulcanizing type is used. I'd use liquid electrical tape. The spade connector can be folded over and taped, if you don't intend to reconnect your gauge.

If I was the dealer, I would try disconnecting the parking brake switch. If the problem goes away, you need a new switch. Beyond that, I'd test the harnesses and start looking for possible shorts. Because these are digital circuits, a bad connection could cause noise that mimics switch operation, too. That will be hard to find. Those things are usually in connectors, but can be caused by internal breaks in wires. Hard to locate without a data-logger on the circuit...or by just replaceing everything. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you!