• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Miles to replace >>F3<< Rear tire?

I've been running 16-18 psi all round in (the slightly larger than OE spec) Kumho KH17's I'm running under my 2013 RT Ltd instead of the OE Kenda crap for quite a while now... (just remember, bigger & 'stronger/better' made automotive tires will generally need less air to carry the same load! ;) ) The Kumho's I've been running front & rear have performed fantastically for over 20,000 km now vs the less than 5,000 km I got from the OE Kenda's, & yet the Kumho's are still looking good for quite a few more km easily - and despite the lower pressures in them I've also been getting far greater traction, much better ride, & more direct handling too!!

Now admittedly, the tire pressures that work for me might not work at all for you simply due to our different riding styles, even if all other things are equal, but still... And as I mentioned earlier, since most aftermarket tires are better constructed & made out of stronger materials (& in my case, are also a couple of sizes larger) they will generally need LESS air to carry the same load, ie, the Spyder - just cos when you compare the loads they expect to carry when fitted to a car, fitting just about any 'proper' tire under a Spyder instead of that Kenda rubbish will mean the tire is carrying a fraction of the load it's capable of carrying, so it shouldn't need the same sort of pressure to still do the job & do it well!! And that's exactly what I've found! :thumbup:

Ps - armyspydervet, that increase of 2 psi up front isn't 'so much' at all for the fronts, but the increase of more than 6psi in the rear is a tad too much!! Basically, if your front tire pressures aren't increasing by about 4psi after an hour or so of riding, there's a very good chance that your front tires are NEVER getting up to their optimal operating temps!! You should expect a tire pressure increase of 4-6psi from cold if the tire is heating up properly & reaching that optimal temp - less than 4psi means your front tires are running a bit cold & won't be giving you the best ride &/or traction they could! So yours would probably benefit from dropping 1 or possibly even 2 psi when cold! But the rear tire that shows that increase of more than 6psi suggests your rear tire is heating up too much; so it's running an increased risk of compound or carcass failure, punctures, etc; and it will probably be wearing quicker in the middle than it should be as the over-heated carcass balloons & the centre strip of tread compound peels off during use! Kenda's tend to do that ballooning thing anyway, cos they are made of such lightweight material (1/2 the strength of most other tires!!) but even so, your rear tire would probably benefit from adding a couple more pounds of pressure to it when it's cold, maybe even as much as 3psi... Good Luck! :thumbup:
The Kenda-bashing on this forum reminds me of the Kuhmo-bashing years ago on Corvette forums. I'm not here to say the Kendas don't deserve it, but I sure would like to see where the "facts" are coming from.
For instance: 1. "MOST aftermarket tires are better constructed and made out of stronger materials"
2. Kendas are made of such lightweight material (1/2 the strength of most tires!!)
The above are fairly strong claims and I'd be curious to see the support for them. Again, not doubting you and others, but I'd hate to find out that "1/2 the strength" is just a rumor. These parameters are tested and the results are printed somewhere if they exist.
Also, let's not confuse treadlife with being better. My car tires run $500-700 per tire and won't last 10K miles driven easily. They are probably the best street tires made (Michelin PSS) , but do not wear well. A tire that lasts a long time (600 TW) is usually a harder compound that has less traction.
 
Back
Top