Mechanical issues

[Arr MiHardies]

Started having some issues today and I'm looking for advice. Rode my Spyder across town this morning. No issues. Gassed up. Then stopped to watch my sons basketball game. On the ride home, I noticed the engine was running rougher than normal, and I would get occasional odd vibration feeling like its coming from the center rear of the bike. Maybe the belt or the muffler are the cause? When idling I did notice the muffler sounds louder than normal. With some Harley like sputtering. One time I started it and heard a kind of loud metallic pop from the muffler. Never heard a backfire before, but I guess it could have been one. Later in the day, it ran fine on the way to church. But on the way back, it was running rough again.

Both times it was running rough, I noticed in place of my oil temperature gauge on the left hand side f my screen was the rear shock adjustment meter. Which is odd because I don't have the on board compressor. I've seen this happen a few times in the past with no other side effect though.

This is a 2011 RT AC. I checked the oil. Oil was clean and just a tad low.

Wasn't having any of these issues until after my fill up today. I'm hoping it was just a bad tank of gas and nothing more serious. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[CyncySpyder]

SM or SE5? Did you top the oil level off?

I know on Teds Red Sled, which is an SE5, if the oil level gets even a little low, we'll get intermittant shifting issues until I top it off, but I've not experienced the issues you've described. After reading other posts, it does sound similar to bad gas issues, but that wouldn't explain why the air suspension icon is showing on your screen. Glitches like that have been reported by others & if I recall correctly, they've mostly been attributed to issues with a low battery output:dontknow:Sorry we don't have better information to help, maybe if Scotty sees this he can chime in :bowdown:

 

[Arr MiHardies]

I have a voltmeter on my Spyder. Voltage Varys quite a bit due to my LEDs. Between 11 (if I leave my LEDs on too long without starting the Spyder) and 13.8 while running at freeway speed. Pretty sure the battery is fine.

 

[NancysToy]

Low voltage can certainly cause issues...ask Phil. Voltage at rest (engine not running) should be at 12.7 volts or above, or electronics, DPS, or starting problems can arise. The gauge problem sounds like a cluster issue, but could be a momentary glitch. Running poorly after filling with fuel usually indicates bad gas. I'd run some Marine Stabil or some SeaFoam through the tank, just for luck.

 

[Bob Denman]

Was your Spyder showing any active codes??

 

[Arr MiHardies]

Was your Spyder showing any active codes??

No. No code, check engine, or anything.

 

[Dudley]

Did you buy gas from the usual station? Bad gas gets my vote. I would ride it until it needs about 4 gallons, tank up at a Shell, Mobil or Chevron (or any name brand) and see if it clears up. I don't think there is any need to panic yet. Once you have eliminated this possible cause and it still happens, it could be any of the above mentioned posts.

 

[ARtraveler]

My vote is for the bad gas causing the problems also.

 

[napper39]

heres what i check often loose battery cable,lose fusses,or header pipe gasket,but the bad gas will prouble be your casue.:chat:

 

[Arr MiHardies]

Did you buy gas from the usual station? Bad gas gets my vote. I would ride it until it needs about 4 gallons, tank up at a Shell, Mobil or Chevron (or any name brand) and see if it clears up. I don't think there is any need to panic yet. Once you have eliminated this possible cause and it still happens, it could be any of the above mentioned posts.

Not my usual station, but it was a shell. Running better this morning. Picked up some fuel stabilizer this morning. Seems to be even better now. Will let you know once ths tank is gone.

 

[Dudley]

Not my usual station, but it was a shell. Running better this morning. Picked up some fuel stabilizer this morning. Seems to be even better now. Will let you know once ths tank is gone.

Good to hear. Hopefully your problem is gone.

 

[MMcc]

Rough running

I would also suggest checking the plug wires. On my 2008 GS/RS I had a similar issue. Dealer suggested bad gas and sold me some Startron. Added that and topped up the tank. I think I believed it helped but soon became worse. Finely one cylinder shudder down completly. Second dealer diagnosed the wire and replacement was ordered.

 

[dmdahnert]

I have no clue if the problem could be the same but the vibration and the loud metallic pop sounds similar to what happened to my 2010 RT SE5 at Spyderfest. After sitting for a while, started it up and she was running rough in neutral with a metallic "machine gun" sound. Put it in first and it got louder with no power...never got above 2000 RPM trying to ride. Parked, shut it off and waited a minute or so, started her up and ran fine for the next 50 miles. The next morning, started up fine, stopped for gas, started up and same thing. Shut it down, waited a minute and headed for Cowtown. Talked to the repair desk who went and talked to the BRP tech and he said we'll be writing a ticket and replacing the throttle body. Never had trouble previously, never threw any codes or limp mode which seemed to surprise the techs. Replaced throttle body and my mileage has been getting better with every tank since Cuba. Just waiting for it to stabilize to see where it's at; currently just broke 30 with 2 up. Just my 2 cents...

Diana

 

[bruiser]

Had that happen on our 2010 RTS awhile back. It was bad gas for us. We filled up just after the fuel truck had dropped a load of gas in the undergrounds. Now, if I see the delivery truck at a station, I bypass it.

 

[Arr MiHardies]

I have no clue if the problem could be the same but the vibration and the loud metallic pop sounds similar to what happened to my 2010 RT SE5 at Spyderfest. After sitting for a while, started it up and she was running rough in neutral with a metallic "machine gun" sound. Put it in first and it got louder with no power...never got above 2000 RPM trying to ride. Parked, shut it off and waited a minute or so, started her up and ran fine for the next 50 miles. The next morning, started up fine, stopped for gas, started up and same thing. Shut it down, waited a minute and headed for Cowtown. Talked to the repair desk who went and talked to the BRP tech and he said we'll be writing a ticket and replacing the throttle body. Never had trouble previously, never threw any codes or limp mode which seemed to surprise the techs. Replaced throttle body and my mileage has been getting better with every tank since Cuba. Just waiting for it to stabilize to see where it's at; currently just broke 30 with 2 up. Just my 2 cents...

Diana

My average mileage has been increasing on average lately. Right now I'm leaning towards bad gas and pray my throttle body isn't the culprit.

 

[dmdahnert]

My average mileage has been increasing on average lately. Right now I'm leaning towards bad gas and pray my throttle body isn't the culprit.

If your mileage has been going up, I think you're good on the throttle body. We watched the mileage drop a bit on the way to Cuba (didn't think much about it as we were hurrying) and the tank the throttle body failed on only managed 80 miles to empty. I was a bit nervous on the way home (about 375 miles) but each tank proceeded to get a little better with each fill even allowing for the wind and rain. Hope you're right that it's just some bad gas. Happy ryding!

Diana

 

[Desert Spyder]

Do you use any fuel additive to combat ethanol J? Not saying its the reason but I hear our engines are not fond of corn juice in the tank.

 

[larrymz3]

I can highly recommend Chevron Techron. Also, Seafoam seems to get good reviews.


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[Bob Denman]

Well we're keeping our fingers crossed for you!

 

[Arr MiHardies]

Do you use any fuel additive to combat ethanol J? Not saying its the reason but I hear our engines are not fond of corn juice in the tank.

Not usually. Though there is some now to combat the suspected bad gas.