Manual Air Shock

[bmwlarry]

I have a 15 limited. I called and ask the tech what the air pressure should be. He said the auto one sets it itself. Even if you put more in it manually, when the bike is running, in gear & moving, it will readjust to where it should be to accommodate the weight/load on the bike so the height is correct.

 

[wengerda]

I have a 15 limited. I called and ask the tech what the air pressure should be. He said the auto one sets it itself. Even if you put more in it manually, when the bike is running, in gear & moving, it will readjust to where it should be to accommodate the weight/load on the bike so the height is correct.

Thank you for the information. I will check this afternoon how much air (manually) I have. Hopefully it wont show 0 PSI.:banghead:

 

[Grandpot]

Okay my saga continues. I added manually air to my bike shock under the seat. This morning, I rode 11 miles from home to the office without any issues. When I started the bike this morning, I heard the compressor turn on once. After 10-15 minutes, I pressed the shock setting switch and it showed on the LCD "Manual" versus the arrows with squares again. Is there anyway I can disconnect a fuse to stop the compressor to kick in? I believe that is probably a solenoid issue versus a damage air compressor. I will check this afternoon when I drive home from work, how much air is in the airbag (manually under the seat), I am assuming that when I started the bike this morning, the compressor pushed all the air out and maybe because the solenoid is not working, is not adding air in the bag. If I can remove the fuse until I have the bike at the dealer, will I start having error codes? Currently I do not have any error codes with this issue. Thanks

The easiest way to disable the compressor without disturbing anything else that operates on the same fuse is to remove relay R1. Its sole purpose is to run the pump. R1 is located in the fuse box in the frunk. It's in the upper left corner as you are standing in front of the Spyder, facing the rear.

 

[wengerda]

The easiest way to disable the compressor without disturbing anything else that operates on the same fuse is to remove relay R1. Its sole purpose is to run the pump. R1 is located in the fuse box in the frunk. It's in the upper left corner as you are standing in front of the Spyder.

Great I am going to do that.

 

[wengerda]

The easiest way to disable the compressor without disturbing anything else that operates on the same fuse is to remove relay R1. Its sole purpose is to run the pump. R1 is located in the fuse box in the frunk. It's in the upper left corner as you are standing in front of the Spyder, facing the rear.

I am looking at the manual, is the relay at "Left JCase fuse box", fuse #1-- 40A-- VCM pump?

 

[Grandpot]

I am looking at the manual, is the relay at "Left JCase fuse box", fuse #1-- 40A-- VCM pump?

I don't have a manual in front of me. Take off the cover of the fuse box located on the wall of the frunk. There are about 4 or 5 relays running left to right. They are all about 3/4" square. The left most (as you are looking at it) is R1. Pull it out and the pump can not operate.

 

[wengerda]

I don't have a manual in front of me. Take off the cover of the fuse box located on the wall of the frunk. There are about 4 or 5 relays running left to right. They are all about 3/4" square. The left most (as you are looking at it) is R1. Pull it out and the pump can not operate.

got it

 

[TerryGrodi]

I have a 2012 RTS SE5 doing the same thing right now. I had the compressor replaced about a year ago under warrantee because it failed. Mine is doing the same thing by showing "Manual" on the screen when you hit the button to adjust the ride, softer or harder. Sometimes when I am riding it will work and show on the screen adjusting to a softer or harder ride. I have an appointment to take my bike in next week to see what it is. I believe that the compressor is not working again because I had to manually put air into the shock.

 

[wengerda]

The easiest way to disable the compressor without disturbing anything else that operates on the same fuse is to remove relay R1. Its sole purpose is to run the pump. R1 is located in the fuse box in the frunk. It's in the upper left corner as you are standing in front of the Spyder, facing the rear.

Okay I try and removed the R1 but that relay fuse is also the reverse gear for the bike, you cant use the reverse gear without the relay. Also without the R1 relay, I see error code P0924 :banghead:

 

[78OldRide]

air compressor

On my 2011 RT had same issue press to adjust would show squares for ride then goes to manual. Turned out bad compressor.

 

[johnwinslow]

Mine is in the shop right now for the EXACT same problem.:banghead:

let us know what you find out

 

[Grandpot]

Okay I try and removed the R1 but that relay fuse is also the reverse gear for the bike, you cant use the reverse gear without the relay. Also without the R1 relay, I see error code P0924 :banghead:

I'm not sure if we are speaking of the same part. You refer to R1 as a "relay fuse." There is no relay fuse. You have fuses and relays. The R1 relay is a 3/4" black cube with 4 prongs sticking out of it. If that is what you pulled and it affects Reverse, I am surprised. The prints don't show anything relating it to reverse. Nanny must be looking at it without any indication on the prints.

Don't pull any fuses. The fuses are bright colored and have 2 prongs.

 

[wengerda]

I'm not sure if we are speaking of the same part. You refer to R1 as a "relay fuse." There is no relay fuse. You have fuses and relays. The R1 relay is a 3/4" black cube with 4 prongs sticking out of it. If that is what you pulled and it affects Reverse, I am surprised. The prints don't show anything relating it to reverse. Nanny must be looking at it without any indication on the prints.

Don't pull any fuses. The fuses are bright colored and have 2 prongs.

Yes the relay 1 with 4 prongs is also the reverse, as soon as I put back the R1 relay my reverse was working and all the codes cleared.

 

[Grandpot]

Yes the relay 1 with 4 prongs is also the reverse, as soon as I put back the R1 relay my reverse was working and all the codes cleared.

Wow, I didn't see that one coming. Nanny really surprised me. No indication at all in the prints. Sorry I misled you. The only other way I can see to disable the compressor without affecting anything else is to disconnect it at the plug, but that plug is a real PIT to get to.

 

[Grandpot]

Wow, I didn't see that one coming. Nanny really surprised me. No indication at all in the prints. Sorry I misled you. The only other way I can see to disable the compressor without affecting anything else is to disconnect it at the plug, but that plug is a real PIT to get to.

I think I just figured out where the error in logic is. First, I just went out and pulled R1 from my 2011 RTS and reverse worked fine. I was under the impression you had a 2011 RT, which after looking at your post again I saw it was your previous Spyder and now you have a 2015, thus lies the problem, Wrong Electrical Prints! If you have 2015 prints, find the relay that controls the pump. Maybe it is still R1, but in a different physical location. If you don't have prints, hopefully someone that does will chime in and give you the information.

 

[wengerda]

Okay I rode over 50 miles this week to work. I put manually 80 PSI before starting the trip. I checked the PSI after riding and a week and is keeping 41 PSI. It does appear that the air compressor kicks in when I put manually 80 PSI and takes it down to approximately 41 PSi and does not lose or add any more air automatically. My question, with what we know, can I continue to ride the spyder until the end of the season? I am assuming that loses half of the air and then stay steady on the psi. Comments.

 

[wengerda]

Okay took my bike to the dealer, I will let you know the findings in a few days

 

[wengerda]

Well after dropping my bike yesterday, I received a call from the tech about the reason of my air bag is not inflating. First I had a Corbin heated seat installed a few months ago. The Corbin tech cut the top cover of the fuse box cover to bring the heated seat wire to one of the fuses. The fuse box cover needed to be cut to fit the wire to a fuse. Well first the fuse cover is on recall due to moisture, having the box cut, it brought moisture and corrosion into 2 relays, therefore the 2 relays and the recalled fuse box cover need to be replaced. It will take the dealer 3 days to receive the new relays and fuse cover. I told the tech to remove the Corbin wire and as soon as they receive the relays and cover, I will bring the bike back. I am not sure why Corbin seat in Daytona Florida had to cut the fuse cover without telling me. Either way the air bag does not have any issues. :banghead:

 

[ris]

I had the same problem on my 2015 RTS. After riding about 2 miles the gage would say manual. I found a bolt missing on the left side of the rear swing arm. This allowed the switch to move out of position and over fill the shock. Replaced the bolt with a 6mm by 1.0 thread and used a check nut and have had no problems. The ride is much improved.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Maybe I was confusing. When I start the bike the LCD does show the up and down arrow squares, when I start riding the bike after 10-15 minutes and I press the shock switch, the shock up and down arrows changes to show "Manual" (instead of up and down arrows as before) I went to the bike this morning after an hour, checked the fuses, all look good, started the bike, no brake and in 1st gear, and press the shock switch and again it shows the up and down arrow squares. If I press down the squares goes down etc. The only thing I do not hear is the air compressor going up and down (should I went I press the shock setting?) . Also there are no error codes. Do you think still is the sensor? Thanks

I had the same thing that I just repaired. I had a burned up pump and mine did the same. I have now installed a aftermarket and it works great, just like new.