HowTo: Maintenance photos

[SportsterDoc]

GEARBOX

The gearbox has 4 plugs:

Plastic filler plug with o-ring - 15 mm socket - front of trans

Level check plug - 10 mm socket / T30 Torx - rear of trans, M8 with 8 mm copper crush washer

M16x1.5 plug over spring and index pin- 8 mm hex bit (Allen) - front of trans. DO NOT REMOVE FOR FLUID SERVICE.

Drain plug - 17 mm socket, bottom of trans, M18, with 18 mm aluminum crush washer

Proper method to verify level is to remove level check plug. If warm and full, a little may overflow.

Quick check is to remove fill plug, which is about 2 inches above level check plug and insert 8 inch cable tie. Gear box fluid should be about 2 inches down, corresponding to lower level of level check plug.

 

[SportsterDoc]

FINAL DRIVE

The final drive has 2 plugs.
Both are 8 mm hex bits (Allen)
Drain is at bottom
Combination fill and level check is accessible through the brake disc, with some rotation usually required.
Filling will require a flex tube funnel.

 

[SportsterDoc]

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL

Caliper needs to be moved to clear disc.
Unlike front, which allows disk to remain for wheel removal (be sure pins align when wheel is re-installed), the rear disc is bolted to back side of wheel.

Caliper bolts (15 mm head) are accessible by socket, with fender support cover in place.
Bolts remain in place after clearing caliper mount plate, to continue to support fender.

 

[lsyorn]

Good info to have.....Thank You!!!

 

[SportsterDoc]

FUNNEL SUGGESTION FOR ENGINE AND TRANS

Sufficient posting has already been done on Ryker oil changes: Showing location of both drain plugs, caution about oil dripping on plastic under-carriage pan, cleaning out oil filter pocket.

At only $10.95 from local Can Am dealer, I’ve already stocked up on BRP 420 956 123 oil filters. When they are gone, the filters with oil ring and crush washers are a good deal from BajaRon.

Ramps versus jacks is my choice for oil changes.

After going through my funnel selection, none were best for the Ryker, so I’ll share what I selected: FloTool 10718, $2.99 from O’ReillysAuto Parts.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Timing for final drive fluid change and need for a new rear tire will probably coincide.

The plan is to pull the rear wheel, take to dealer (or tire shop?) and while it is out of the way, change the final drive fluid, rather than access through disc slot.

Home Depot has 3/8" OD, 1/4" ID clear vinyl tubing, 10 feet for $3.36, to flow from 1 quart bottle to final drive.

Would have preferred thinner wall 5/16" ID for better flow and attachment to bottle spout.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Post 1 photo label corrected, thanks to input from canamryder

 

[SportsterDoc]

FINAL DRIVE FLUID

Lifted rear to be able to rotate wheel to access fill plug.
Both fill and drain have o-rrings
Magnetic drain plug is flat, not recessed as are engine and transmission.
Had small amount of black goop on magnet, but nothing like the transmission.

Removed fill plug to verify clearance before draining. Not a challenge.
Wire cable and brake line were splattered, so after service, they were relocated behind the tab. Will not know until next service if that will suffice.

Quart of 75W90 premarked to measure 350 ml inverted. With no air entering bottle, it became more of a guess, then check, situation. Next time, probably will pre-measure into small funnel to tube, although gravity flow will probably be slow.

Regarding service intervals, compared to Moto Guzzi V7II:
Engine first service at 600 miles, then 6,000 mile intervals with 10W60 synthetic, only 2 liters capacity
Gearbox first service at 600 miles, than next at 37,300 miles (60,000 km), same capacity as Ryker: 500 ml
Final first service at 600 miles, than next at 12,400 (20,000 km), 24,900 miles (40,000 km), similar to Ryker: 300 ml

So, even though I expect to change engine oil at ~5,000 mile intervals, the Can Am Ryker service intervals otherwise seem reasonable, by comparison, if an early first service is done. Just my 2 cents.

I service every vehicle I own as though I intend to keep it forever, even though I doubt I will keep the Ryker past probably 4 years (age 77).

 

[sonsofanarchy]

Hi,

thanks a lot. Very good job.

could you put in one pdf, all your recommendations for the maintenance.

That would be great

 

[SportsterDoc]

As a new owner, producing a chart would not likely be accurate. Most of my riding is longer distances at higher speeds, so a lot of start and stop may require sooner oil changes.

My plans for now, after changing engine, trans and final drive fluids at 1,200 miles (sooner for shorter rides), are to

A. follow the BRP-Can Am manual, except go no more than 5,000 mile intervals for engine oil change.

I do 5,000 miles using pure synthetic in my truck (4,000 miles previously with synthetic blend), but cruising RPMs are about 2,200 with a 4.0 V6, whereas cruising RPMs with the Ryker 900 are about 6,000 RPMs.

B. As the miles accrue, I intend to re-evaluate 5,000 mile intervals, depending upon suspended particles in the engine oil.

The trans is an easy change, so might do the next at 6,000, instead of 12,000, then re-evaluate.

Final drive was the cleanest, so the next at 12,000 may be appropriate

Bottom line is encouraging changing the oil used during run-in at roughly 1,000 miles.

 

[SportsterDoc]

For sensor list, part numbers, location, see this thread:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...art-number-amp-location&p=1531384#post1531384

 

[Tslepebull]

Afternoon Doc, I used your instructions for a gear box lube change today. Everything was straight forward once I found an 8" extension and 1/4" drive flex joint to remove the gear lube level screw; side panel and drive shaft limit degree of rotation. As you reported there was abundant black grunge on the magnet but no shiny bits. Went back with 75/140 GL5 synthetic lube rather than engine oil for better high temperature protection. As you suggested I will wait for a rear tire change to do the final drive. Both will be about due around engine oil change time come winter.