Loose battery connections!

[draboo]

I just remembered something from when we were installing the trailer wiring last weekend. We had the left panels off and Joe said:

"Check your battery connections for tightness. I checked mine and one was less than finger tight."

mmm...okay!

I was in disbelief! The positive one was finger tight and the neg was around 3/4 turn from being tight.

Is this just a WA state thing? I think someone else(Ray, maybe?) from WA posted something about this,too.

Joe and I purchased our RT's from different dealers. Could this possibly be a problem due to a design glitch that keeps loosening the terminal bolts, maybe from vibration? :shocked:

ANYWAAaaay....I suggest checking , especially on the Rt. I never had a loose cable on my RS.

Befuddled Brad

 

[clueless]

also dont forget to check the ground wire screw next to the fuse block under the seat. mine was less then finger tight and caused computer issues when starting until i tightened it down.

 

[NancysToy]

The dealer installs the battery, so it is a dealer thing. Mine was the same...at delivery and following each time they worked on it. It is a bit of a pain to take the panels off and check, but it is well worth the time and effort.

 

[MotorTony]

When I installed the CB, I found that the ground strap near the fuse box was tight, but an odd size little screw with nut. I decided to put the right size bolt into the threaded fitting and found I couldn't because there was weld slag inside. I guess instead of chasing the threads the decided to build it with a smaller screw and nut. I cleaned the fittings and put in the correct bolt.

 

[bruiser]

Internal tooth washers under the nut will greatly reduce loosening of battery cable nuts. They also work on the ground wire, only put it between the wire end and frame, this prevents loosening and gives a better ground.

 

[NancysToy]

Internal tooth washers under the nut will greatly reduce loosening of battery cable nuts. They also work on the ground wire, only put it between the wire end and frame, this prevents loosening and gives a better ground.

I agree regarding the frame ground. I disagree about using star washers on the battery terminals, however. Mixing metals at the battery connection is an invitation to severe electrolytic corrosion. The addition of another surface also enhances corrosion, probably due to moisture intrusion. That is one reason that each added wiring connection at the battery increases the need for regular maintenance. Finally, use of a star washer will damage the lead terminal itself...and eventually allow loosening when the barbs dig in. If you feel you must use a star washer here, make sure it is located on the outside of the wire terminal, not next to the lead battery terminal itself. JMHO

 

[bruiser]

I agree regarding the frame ground. I disagree about using star washers on the battery terminals, however. Mixing metals at the battery connection is an invitation to severe electrolytic corrosion. The addition of another surface also enhances corrosion, probably due to moisture intrusion. That is one reason that each added wiring connection at the battery increases the need for regular maintenance. Finally, use of a star washer will damage the lead terminal itself...and eventually allow loosening when the barbs dig in. If you feel you must use a star washer here, make sure it is located on the outside of the wire terminal, not next to the lead battery terminal itself. JMHO

Thanks Scotty. I should have been more clear in that the washer should be used between the nut and terminal never next to the lead terminal. Using stainless hardware reduces but does not eliminate corrosion. If you use a good grade stainless lock nut you won't need the star washer. We don't use nylock nuts, the nylon used in this type nut can melt due to heat in the connection and the nut loosens. Battery maintenance is a must whatever hardware you use. I run into this on a daily basis, many of the machines I work on are battery powered, 36 volt, 24 volt and 12 volt. I find dry cells, corrosion so bad that the batteries won't take a good charge and have even found battery tops blown off. These are deep cell batteries, like the batteries in a golf cart. I don't agree with the term "maintenance free" on batteries. That is a misleading term.

 

[bruiser]

I agree regarding the frame ground. I disagree about using star washers on the battery terminals, however. Mixing metals at the battery connection is an invitation to severe electrolytic corrosion. The addition of another surface also enhances corrosion, probably due to moisture intrusion. That is one reason that each added wiring connection at the battery increases the need for regular maintenance. Finally, use of a star washer will damage the lead terminal itself...and eventually allow loosening when the barbs dig in. If you feel you must use a star washer here, make sure it is located on the outside of the wire terminal, not next to the lead battery terminal itself. JMHO

Thanks Scotty. I should have been more clear in that the washer should be used between the nut and terminal never next to the lead terminal. Using stainless hardware reduces but does not eliminate corrosion. If you use a good grade stainless lock nut you won't need the star washer. We don't use nylock nuts, the nylon used in this type nut can melt due to heat in the connection and the nut loosens. Battery maintenance is a must whatever hardware you use. I run into this on a daily basis, many of the machines I work on are battery powered, 36 volt, 24 volt and 12 volt. I find dry cells, corrosion so bad that the batteries won't take a good charge and have even found battery tops blown off. These are deep cell batteries, like the batteries in a golf cart. I don't agree with the term "maintenance free" on batteries. That is a misleading term.

 

[bruiser]

Ooops, sorry about the double post. :sour:

 

[NancysToy]

.....I don't agree with the term "maintenance free" on batteries. That is a misleading term.

You've got that right, brother! "Fill-free" is about as close as they get.

 

[IWN2RYD]

So far (Crosses fingers) our RT and RS have had no issues with battery connections.

I plan to connect our trickle charger and a 12v jack tomorrow and will check again. We purchased our two Spyders from Clem's in Enumclaw :bowdown:.

 

[SpyderFun]

The dealer installs the battery, so it is a dealer thing. Mine was the same...at delivery and following each time they worked on it. It is a bit of a pain to take the panels off and check, but it is well worth the time and effort.

Sounds like it may be time for you to have a lil' chat with the technicians about applying proper "torque values" versus something feeling "tight enough". :lecturef_smilie:

A good practice to keep nuts properly torqued is using liquid "LocTite" on the threads or applying a strip of 'Torque Seal" after torquing. "Torque Seal" is kinda like a painted stripe that will visually show you when a nut backs off by the "painted stripe" being broken. Both of these are widely used on airplanes so using it on a bike can help with knowing what is or is not tight by merely looking at it. nojoke

 

[NancysToy]

Sounds like it may be time for you to have a lil' chat with the technicians about applying proper "torque values" versus something feeling "tight enough". :lecturef_smilie:

A good practice to keep nuts properly torqued is using liquid "LocTite" on the threads or applying a strip of 'Torque Seal" after torquing. "Torque Seal" is kinda like a painted stripe that will visually show you when a nut backs off by the "painted stripe" being broken. Both of these are widely used on airplanes so using it on a bike can help with knowing what is or is not tight by merely looking at it. nojoke

It is difficult to torque a bolt on a battery connection. The lead terminal compresses, making it difficult or impossible to reach a normal torque value for the fastener size. In addition, vibration allows the harder wire terminal to wear into the lead terminal, in time. This makes periodic tightening essential. I tighten and clean a couple of times a year...or immediately after any dealer service.

I would love to be able to talk to my tech about the error of his ways. My dealership does not allow anyone in the their shop, and does not allow direct contact with the technician, however.

 

[JoanJenn]

Battery connection issues

My new Spyder has not been charging well andhas been too weak too start a couple times- I told the dealer the +connection is loos and cannot be snugged up -- they had installed a Battery Tender pigtail--- they said I probably worked a nut on the underneath of panel and they would fix it - for me not to try-- funnny but if a nut came off wouldn;t the entire bolt move readily? It will unloosen but not tighten. I am wondering if they forgot some spacers or something???? ! 1/2 hr to dealer and I have not been able to get it there yet-- quite annoying- I know this loose connection couldn;t help the charging issues I have---- Bummer Having changed batteries on my 2 wheeled bikes and riding lawnmower I know about this a little anyway! Joan:spyder:

 

[NancysToy]

My new Spyder has not been charging well andhas been too weak too start a couple times- I told the dealer the +connection is loos and cannot be snugged up -- they had installed a Battery Tender pigtail--- they said I probably worked a nut on the underneath of panel and they would fix it - for me not to try-- funnny but if a nut came off wouldn;t the entire bolt move readily? It will unloosen but not tighten. I am wondering if they forgot some spacers or something???? ! 1/2 hr to dealer and I have not been able to get it there yet-- quite annoying- I know this loose connection couldn;t help the charging issues I have---- Bummer Having changed batteries on my 2 wheeled bikes and riding lawnmower I know about this a little anyway! Joan:spyder:

The problem here is in fastening the harness to the jumper connections under the seat, instead of the battery terminals. If you try to loosen the ground jumper, the nut loosens and will not tighten. It is very hard to get to, in order to remedy the situation. A good tech (or owner) will go clear back to the battery terminals (inside the Tupperware). Not sure why they attached a harness to the jumper terminals, anyway...you can charge directly through those terminals with alligator clips.

 

[Lamonster]

The problem here is in fastening the harness to the jumper connections under the seat, instead of the battery terminals. If you try to loosen the ground jumper, the nut loosens and will not tighten. It is very hard to get to, in order to remedy the situation. A good tech (or owner) will go clear back to the battery terminals (inside the Tupperware). Not sure why they attached a harness to the jumper terminals, anyway...you can charge directly through those terminals with alligator clips.

I use the jumper post on the + side and the bolt on the fuel tank on the ground side. This pic doesn't show the wire but it does show the bolt on the tank.

 

[NancysToy]

:thumbup: I used the "+" jumper post on Nancy's, too, but I went to the front frame ground on hers. It is only the "-" jumper that is trouble.

 

[boborgera]

The problem here is in fastening the harness to the jumper connections under the seat, instead of the battery terminals. If you try to loosen the ground jumper, the nut loosens and will not tighten. It is very hard to get to, in order to remedy the situation. A good tech (or owner) will go clear back to the battery terminals (inside the Tupperware). Not sure why they attached a harness to the jumper terminals, anyway...you can charge directly through those terminals with alligator clips.

:agree:I learned the hard way about that ground nut two winters ago when i got lazy putting in a pig tail for a heated jacket,
And didn't want to remove panels to get to the battery.:gaah: