Looks like I am replacing my left hand multi-function switch.

[CloverHillCrawler]

I got the dreaded paddle shifter failure on the left hand multi-function switch, I went out on 340 the other day and went to shift from 3rd to 4th and no joy.

I jiggled the paddle shifter by tapping it from the bottom with my finger and was able to get it working again to get back home. I inspected underneath the engine and there was no damage or any sign of scraping around the shifting solenoid. When I operate the shifter it sounds like a rusted spring inside and the shifter has play in it. So I think it's a safe bet to go ahead and order the LH multi-function switch.

I guess even though I have a 2020 they used the bad ones that were covered in previous years Technical Bulletins for earlier models.

I am looking at the parts page and on both the F3 and F3S, it looks they replaced part # 710006968 with # 710008091.

Absolute horse pucky that I have to spend $500 just to fix the shifter when the rest of the switch is good.

At least I have some practice with getting to those connectors and taking the panels off from the cruise control install when I did the RH switch; plus, I need to change the fuel filter, which I forgot to do the last time I had all the panels off.

 

[rjinaz86323]

I got the dreaded paddle shifter failure on the left hand multi-function switch, I went out on 340 the other day and went to shift from 3rd to 4th and no joy.

I jiggled the paddle shifter by tapping it from the bottom with my finger and was able to get it working again to get back home. I inspected underneath the engine and there was no damage or any sign of scraping around the shifting solenoid. When I operate the shifter it sounds like a rusted spring inside and the shifter has play in it. So I think it's a safe bet to go ahead and order the LH multi-function switch.

I guess even though I have a 2020 they used the bad ones that were covered in previous years Technical Bulletins for earlier models.

I am looking at the parts page and on both the F3 and F3S, it looks they replaced part # 710006968 with # 710008091.

Absolute horse pucky that I have to spend $500 just to fix the shifter when the rest of the switch is good.

At least I have some practice with getting to those connectors and taking the panels off from the cruise control install when I did the RH switch; plus, I need to change the fuel filter, which I forgot to do the last time I had all the panels off.

I agree. Each switch should be independent. I had to replace mine just to fix my parking brake.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Quick question for anyone who has done this replacement on an F3:

I have read, in other threads, that with the RT, you need to Depin the connector in order to route the wire properly... Is this also true for the F3?

 

[jcthorne]

Quick question for anyone who has done this replacement on an F3:

I have read, in other threads, that with the RT, you need to Depin the connector in order to route the wire properly... Is this also true for the F3?

No, on the F3 the wiring harness is outside of the handlebar assembly.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Thanks, just needed to verify this before I ordered the part and started taking it apart.

 

[rjinaz86323]

No, on the F3 the wiring harness is outside of the handlebar assembly.

The need not de-pin it was on the other end where the wiring hooks up to the rest of the CanAm. There is is place where the cable goes through the frame and the opening is not large enough for the connector. Not sure if this applies to the F3 or only the RTL