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@#%! Limp Mode

Pandy

Member
Having gone almost 2 years without a hiccup (after a costly TB replacement) Here we are again with P1120 and P2620 TPS codes. Parked at the shop right now until they open in the a.m. Okay, end of rant. Aside from that had a great riding day...
Patrick
 
Yeah,that code thingy

Yeah Bob that's how I knew the TPS whanger had lost touch. Last time it was coincident with a TB failure and resultant gnashing of teeth and drain of disposable income. (I guess that's why they call it disposable)
I used MySpyder to decode since I was parked anyway, the Spyderhelp thing will go on the phone next.
 
Having gone almost 2 years without a hiccup (after a costly TB replacement) Here we are again with P1120 and P2620 TPS codes. Parked at the shop right now until they open in the a.m. Okay, end of rant. Aside from that had a great riding day...
Patrick

Know just how you feel :banghead::banghead::banghead: Sunday after noon I went into limp home on my rs but I did not know how to check the codes...jtpollock
 
Throttle cables?

Tech started on the aforementioned problems and reported that the throttle cable(s) were "banjo tight" preventing, I suppose, the TPS thing from reading what what's going on. Apparently, there is an electromechanical link at the end of the throttle wire and an ETA Electrical throttle Actuator. No one is talking TB replacement yet, but apparently a lot of stuff needs to come off to get at the adjustment. Never heard of such a thing, but if it's a relatively cheap fix, I'll take it.
Patrick
 
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From spyderhelp.com

'
\OTE=jtpollock;999016]Know just how you feel :banghead::banghead::banghead: Sunday after noon I went into limp home on my rs but I did not know how to check the codes...jtpollock[/QUOTE]
I strongly suggest you download this app, here's what is says on how to check codes on an RS
Ignition switch on, or engine running press mode button until engine hours shows on display
Press and hold mode button while pushing flash high beams five times within 2 seconds
if no active faults, no codes displayed if active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed
 
what is a TB failure

Yeah Bob that's how I knew the TPS whanger had lost touch. Last time it was coincident with a TB failure and resultant gnashing of teeth and drain of disposable income. (I guess that's why they call it disposable)
I used MySpyder to decode since I was parked anyway, the Spyderhelp thing will go on the phone next.

New here and not up to speed all on the tech talk. What is a TB failure? It sounds both serious and spendy.
 
TB=Throttlebody

The Throttlebody is where the fuel injectors live and admits air into the engine as well. It is the beginning of the feedback loop between the ECM and the drive by wire throttle control at the LH grip. ECM being the engine management computer. It is an expensive chunk and requires the BRP diagnostics aka B.U.D.S. to fix. In my case, the service writer had mentioned throttle cable, but saw the error of his ways when I mentioned that my machine is fly by wire. One TB clean and recalibrate later, codes are cleared and Pyder runs well. Catch is, they broke my frunk latch and cannot be opened electrically. We shall see how this plays out.
Patrick
 
Not a great way to start the day

Well Pandy, after I had what I thought were a couple check engine "hiccups" the bike finally gives up on me this morning on my way to work. I checked the code and got the exact same codes as you. I was reading some of the posts and was dreading a TB replacement. However, after reading your posts I'm hopeful it'll be a cheap fix, considering I'll be doing all the work myself.
 
Year and model

The dreaded TB replacement has a lot to do with year and model.Some just need cleaning and recalibration. At least that,s the conventional wisdom around here. Oh, similar symptoms can be caused by vacuum hoses and pipes as well.
Patrick
 
Update

Well, the last TB was replaced about 2 months ago, and went just under 800 miles. After some wrangling with BRP (and the dealer) TB#5 is on the way to be replaced at no cost to me. So, should I drop hints about a possibly sticking brake light switch, or faulty cruise engagement? After catching up on some other posts, I discovered that my roadster behaves is a similar manner to others. That is, cruise doesn't engage right away, not all the time, just sometimes. Hmmmm, might be food for BUDS.
Patrick
 
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