Limp mode and engine stalling, Codes P1172 & P1175 - any ideas?

[ARNIE R]

Had a beautiful day to go riding, so off I went.

Stopped for gas about 30 miles away from home. The bike ran perfectly until about the last ten miles. Then, it felt like it was trying to shift between 4th and 5th because the engine started surging, Next, the Limp Mode light came on and the engine became more erratic.

The bike stalled on me about 5-6 times before arriving home, in between running ok for a few minutes at a time. The Limp Mode light kept randomly popping on and off.

Pulled two codes when I got home. P1172 and P1175. Looked them up but still puzzled about why all of this happened so suddenly.

Bad gas or something else? Vacuum hoses have previously been replaced with silicone ones and the crankshaft position sensor has also been replaced once.

Thanks.

 

[Bfromla]

Unfortunately Possibly bad gas & or weak pump, sadly no resolution found yet, however not suffering limp mode
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ring-not-constant-code-amp-check-engine-light:dontknow: maybe something additional?

 

[Mikey]

If you can keep it running, I would try running a couple of tanks of injector cleaner thru it. You may have some water in there, or an injector getting plugged up. I had it happen to me one time, on a start of a ride, stop for gas and went down the road after, lucky going by the house at the time, and it was running like crap, swung in the house and put a little Heat in the tank, and grabbed and bottle of Seafoam, put a shot of that in also, then put the rest in at my next tank full and I was as good as new by the time I was back home. Good luck!!!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you can keep it running, I would try running a couple of tanks of injector cleaner thru it. You may have some water in there, or an injector getting plugged up. I had it happen to me one time, on a start of a ride, stop for gas and went down the road after, lucky going by the house at the time, and it was running like crap, swung in the house and put a little Heat in the tank, and grabbed and bottle of Seafoam, put a shot of that in also, then put the rest in at my next tank full and I was as good as new by the time I was back home. Good luck!!!

:agree: .... mostly .... on the container it's spelled ...." HEET " and that's the original ....water remover & will be cheaper than any of the new-fangled stuff ..... I used it a lot in Snow-mobiles .....it works .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, System Too Rich on both the front and rear cylinders at the same time. Doesn't happen very often. Usually it's a lean issue, not a rich issue with this thing. Did you pull those codes while the motor was running? If not, do that so that you get a picture of the code situation in real time and that you get the same ones consistantly.

Look for the common thread for both cylinders if that is confirmed. Seafoam / HEET as Mikey mentioned, or you might have to get rid of that tank of gas. Appears that it ran good for the first 20 miles after you got the gas, then poof. Gas station operators don't always sump their tanks the way that they should.

Otherwise, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, filters, engine air intake system. I suppose if both channels of the MAP sensor went belly up, that could do it, too, but you should get a MAP sensor HI/LO code if that happened. Check your vacuum hoses to it though, to make sure they didn't slip off of the sensor. Start with the easy stuff.

 

[ARNIE R]

Added some HEET and Seafoam to the tank this morning. Battery terminals checked for tightness and security.

Pulled the left side panels off later today. Found the silicone vacuum hose to the rear cylinder completely off the nipple fitting. The front hose was still in place. Re-attached the rear one and started it up but it kept stalling after running about a minute, however, the LIMP screen did not appear as it did yesterday. After about 10 more starting attempts, the erratic idle began to settle down (it had been surging between 1100-1700 rpm), and the bike ran at idle for about 30 minutes without issue.

I’ll recheck it again tomorrow. Hopefully, maybe the computer had to reset or “relearn” the idle parameters - haha, just wishful thinking on my part.

Thanks all for your comments so far.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Actually Yes, the fuel trim setting DID have to re-adjust once you reconnected the hose, and the additives can help, too. Go back and check on what size ID hose that you used when you replaced the hoses previously. Anything larger than 3mm ID is too large. That’s why it would come off even under vacuum. 3mm available from Summit Racing...or PM me and I'll send you two cut to length.

What about codes? Are they cleared now?

 

[ARNIE R]

I'll recheck for the codes tomorrow. Was getting late and the cats had to be fed and I needed a beer, etc.

The silicone tubing was supposedly the proper diameter sent to me by another member here some time ago. I also had ordered some myself from another source, so I have plenty. Thanks for the offer.

 

[Bfromla]

Might need a small zip tie on hose end:dontknow:opcorn: no not supposed to come off easily especially self restrained by barb & vacuum, but crazy things do happen.

 

[WRCLVR]

yep zip ties for the win. Silicone is slippery than rubber.

 

[ARNIE R]

Ran the engine for about 40 minutes this morning. Idle stayed steady, no stalling and no codes were present. Hoping the disconnected vacuum hose was the issue. Yes, zip ties may be a good idea.

Thanks all for you input.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Ran the engine for about 40 minutes this morning. Idle stayed steady, no stalling and no codes were present. Hoping the disconnected vacuum hose was the issue. Yes, zip ties may be a good idea.

Thanks all for you input.

Thank YOU for following up. Get out there and RUN it. Watch out for deer.

 

[Mikey]

Or a tighter hose!

 

[ARNIE R]

Did a two hour ride this afternoon and everything ran well and no codes popped up.

Thanks again!