• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

limp mode again

When was the last time your Spyder was put on BUDS? It was my understanding that Limp Mode was changed (reprogrammed) on 11 and newer models so that it no longer slammed on the brakes. It will limit you to 5000 rpm but you can maintain speed by upshifting at low rpm.

not since I've owned the bike. I bought it used back in November 2015 with 3,000 miles on it. still only at 16,000 miles right now. anywho, when the crosswind caught me I still had throttle up to 5500 rpm I believe it was. this time nothing, no throttle response at all. when I tried to throttle, it just bucked. when I was able to get off onto the berm, checked for codes, showed none, shut it down, started back up fine and rode home about 70 miles or so.
 
Check your battery leads.... the ones down in on tha battery posts. My wife’s did this a couple years ago. Dealer told me to check leads at tetminal because those systems need so much power. It worked for me . They were loose..
 
I have the plastic off including the frunk right now checking grounds and other connections. did find both swaybar links wore out. previous owner had Rons swaybar installed right after she bought it but didn't swap out the links. been hearing an occasional popping from the front suspension and figured it was the links but didn't think they were as bad as they are. i know they are not the cause of the issue i had but they do need replacing.
 
Check your battery leads.... the ones down in on tha battery posts. My wife’s did this a couple years ago. Dealer told me to check leads at tetminal because those systems need so much power. It worked for me . They were loose..
terminal connections are all clean and tight with alligator washers installed.
 
going to pull the battery and take it to my sons shop and have him load test it. battery is only a year old but it is aftermarket. if it fails/or is borderline on the load test I will install a new Yuasa.
 
going to pull the battery and take it to my sons shop and have him load test it. battery is only a year old but it is aftermarket. if it fails/or is borderline on the load test I will install a new Yuasa.

Be aware, the Yuasa has recently had a LARGE price increase. Used to be available for right around $100, now 165 if you shop around. The Odyssey is just as good (maybe better) at 120 and also USA made. It used to be higher priced but its now cheaper than the Yuasa. We will not stock the chinese batteries.
 
battery load tested at 39 pct, 204 cca, about 10'ish volts. unit is a 350 cold cranking amp 21 amp hr. time for a new one!
 
Just bought a Yuasa from Rider'd Domain (used to be Jake Wilson) and it says Made in USA on the box. paid $149+ tax.
 
Just bought a Yuasa from Rider'd Domain (used to be Jake Wilson) and it says Made in USA on the box. paid $149+ tax.

Good price from a dealer these days. I bet it was stock from before the recent price increase. I cannot get one for that from any of the suppliers. Yes, the Yuasa is made in usa. Great battery, one part BRP did not scrimp on.
 
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