Limp Home - Oil Pressure Sensor?

[Dirt_Dad]

Had a lot of frustration with Check Engine - Limp Home Mode, this weekend. Started Friday morning when my wife attempted to start the her RS SM5. Got the message scrolling across. After reading the other threads here I decided to let it run to warm up, shut is down for 10 minutes then try again. As others found it worked great. Rode for about 200 miles. Had several shut offs for breaks and no problem. Later in the afternoon it started appearing again. To get it to stop she had to ride it about 1/4 mile, shut down and restart to get it back into normal mode.

Next day running to normal temps then shut down did not seem to work. But riding 1/4 mile, shutting down and restarting 60 seconds later did. Rode another 200+ miles with only two shut downs, one for gas, one for lunch. Restarted without going into limp mode. Got home, washed it, and of course back to limp mode.

The good thing is except for a two mile ride and a couple of 1/4 warm up rides, she never got stuck in Limp mode. The remaining 500+ miles were all done in normal mode.

Does this sound like the oil pressure sensor issue I've seen others reference here? There are no convenient dealers to me. I'm hoping I'll be able to call the selling dealer, explain what happened and have them send me a sensor if that's the issue. Thoughts???

 

[NancysToy]

I am assuming from your reluctance to see a dealer, that your dealer is quite a distance away. That is too bad, since the easiest way to diagnose these things is to hook up to BUDS. The next time limp mode appears, leave the engine running and display the active fault codes but holding down the "Mode" button and pressing the "Flash Bright Lights" button five times quickly (within 2 seconds). When you release the buttons, any active fault codes will appear on the display. This information will help your dealer if you absolutely have to do this by phone. Don't expect the dealer to ship you a replacement part under warranty, however. They are going to want to see the Spyder and do the work to file a warranty claim.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I am assuming from your reluctance to see a dealer, that your dealer is quite a distance away. That is too bad, since the easiest way to diagnose these things is to hook up to BUDS. The next time limp mode appears, leave the engine running and display the active fault codes but holding down the "Mode" button and pressing the "Flash Bright Lights" button five times quickly (within 2 seconds). When you release the buttons, any active fault codes will appear on the display. This information will help your dealer if you absolutely have to do this by phone. Don't expect the dealer to ship you a replacement part under warranty, however. They are going to want to see the Spyder and do the work to file a warranty claim.

Ah, that's what I was doing wrong. I tried the sequence you mentioned and I never saw the code...but I didn't release the buttons after the 5 quick flashes. Guess I can try again.

My selling dealer is 5 hours away and not an option. I have one 45 minutes away inside the DC beltway, which I really hate riding a bike or Spyder in that area. Have another dealer that I've used 90 minutes away. I imagine I'll need to pay them a visit one night after work.

 

[NancysToy]

Ah, that's what I was doing wrong. I tried the sequence you mentioned and I never saw the code...but I didn't release the buttons after the 5 quick flashes. Guess I can try again.

My selling dealer is 5 hours away and not an option. I have one 45 minutes away inside the DC beltway, which I really hate riding a bike or Spyder in that area. Have another dealer that I've used 90 minutes away. I imagine I'll need to pay them a visit one night after work.

You have to hit the flash button five times within 2 seconds, or it won't work. If you get neither a code, nor a "No Active Codes" message, try again. It is pretty tricky, and takes a bit of practice.

 

[Lamonster]

You have to hit the flash button five times within 2 seconds, or it won't work. If you get neither a code, nor a "No Active Codes" message, try again. It is pretty tricky, and takes a bit of practice.

It's been a long time since I did this on the RS but don't you have to be in the "set time" mode or something like that first?

 

[docdoru]

- Using MODE scroll to the Hr. screen on the cluster
- Hold down MODE button the left handlebar and the light switch on the left handlebar
- When you have those two buttons held down, with your left thumb flick the hi-beam flasher switch (down) 5 times fast - within two seconds.

 

[NancysToy]

It's been a long time since I did this on the RS but don't you have to be in the "set time" mode or something like that first?

- Using MODE scroll to the Hr. screen on the cluster
- Hold down MODE button the left handlebar and the light switch on the left (Right?) handlebar
- When you have those two buttons held down, with your left thumb flick the hi-beam flasher switch (down) 5 times fast - within two seconds.

Thanks for the reminder. It's been a long time for me (and maybe Doc), too. I do remember it being tricky and particular. If enough of us chime in we will get it nailed...LOL.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Thanks for the sequence. The code is P0505 which works out to be Idle Air Control System Memory Difference OR Idle Air Control System Failure. Does that mean anything to anyone? First step in the manual says to check the connection, which would be too good to be true if that's all it is.

Which brings up a couple of additional questions...

1) Is this a common issue that routinely needs a new part from Can-Am?

2) Any concern about driving it with this error? It gives normal ops up to 5K RPM, so I'm thinking it can't be all bad in the event I can't get it out of Limp when comes time to take it to the dealer.

 

[NancysToy]

This is not a common issue. The IACV is used to adjust the engine idle RPM speed by opening and closing an air bypass passage inside the throttle body. My guess is that the idle air control valve (solenoid) has is stuck or has failed, although there could be other causes, like loose wiring connectors, bad wiring, or loose, plugged, or damaged hoses. There are some tests your dealer will have to run. I'm not sure if this would be considered part of the emissions system, but if it is, it carries an extended warranty. I suspect you could limp to the dealer, but you might have trouble with stalling or high idle speed.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I don't anticipate warranty being a problem on a 5 month old machine. Guess I'm going to the dealer.

 

[docdoru]

They will replace the actuator. :doorag:

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Limped the bike to the dealer this evening. Dealer said they would take a look then call Can-Am. I asked if Can-Am was good about covering warranty issues. Service guy said they are good about covering the Spyder because they are having so many problems with them. Told me they have three others in the shop right now getting their engines torn down. Not really what I wanted to hear. I did feel a little better when it said they don't see a lot of manual transmission Spyders.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

New IACV installed and everything is back to normal. All done under warranty (of course) and dealership experience was about as good as it could have been.