• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Lifting/Replacing battery in 2018 RTL

shoot flame , that was a good idea ... helped a fellow rider with their battery exchange , those things are a beast to work into the housing of the newer model cycles , getting the cables too cooperate , position the battery , get the hold down for the battery right plus the weight of battery itself , took about 1 hour ! this lifting strap for old battery is a good idea ! as for putting the new battery in next time ... I will call captjam ! :roflblack: ( awwwww come on it was a good place for a joke )
 
The left one looks just like the right one and this IS THE OLD ONE that I took out using the tarp strap with the metal hooks inside each terminal. As I said, come up with a better way to get it up and out.

I have changed countless batteries in Spyders. Never needed any sort of strap. You simply reach in and pick it up once everything is disconnected and out of the way.

The manufacture CLEARLY states NOT to lift by the terminals. Its not because of distortion to the terminal blocks but because it can easily cause breakage of the terminal from the plates below. Its NOT designed to support the weight of the battery. EVER. You cannot see the cracks and damage caused. Those cracks in the connections are a large part of what leads to battery explosions.

Do not lift the battery using hooks or other methods of attaching to the terminals. If you MUST have a tool to lift the battery, they do exist. They clamp from the sides. I use them in cars and trucks but never found one needed for the small motorcycle batteries.
 
I have changed countless batteries in Spyders. Never needed any sort of strap. You simply reach in and pick it up once everything is disconnected and out of the way.

The manufacture CLEARLY states NOT to lift by the terminals. Its not because of distortion to the terminal blocks but because it can easily cause breakage of the terminal from the plates below. Its NOT designed to support the weight of the battery. EVER. You cannot see the cracks and damage caused. Those cracks in the connections are a large part of what leads to battery explosions.

Do not lift the battery using hooks or other methods of attaching to the terminals. If you MUST have a tool to lift the battery, they do exist. They clamp from the sides. I use them in cars and trucks but never found one needed for the small motorcycle batteries.

I'd like to see a video of you "simply reach in and pick it up". I've seen many videos and watch a few guys try to get it out and it was a pain. As I said, come up with a better way.
 
As I said, I have removed and replaced countless batteries in Spyders. Once the leads and hold down clamp are removed, the battery tilts forward and you reach in and pick it up. I own and operate a Spyder shop, do this all the time. The hardest part is the awkward angle. If the trunk lid is removed it becomes MUCH easier as you can straddle the nose of the frunk but I seldom have this luxury.

Lifting it via the terminals is NOT a better way. Its asking for trouble.
 
As I said, I have removed and replaced countless batteries in Spyders. Once the leads and hold down clamp are removed, the battery tilts forward and you reach in and pick it up. I own and operate a Spyder shop, do this all the time. The hardest part is the awkward angle. If the trunk lid is removed it becomes MUCH easier as you can straddle the nose of the frunk but I seldom have this luxury.

Lifting it via the terminals is NOT a better way. Its asking for trouble.

Then make a video and show us. What I did had no effect on either the new battery or the old I removed. So what trouble should I expect since neither battery is damaged?
 
Admittedly, the following article is from Optima, but it is arguably still pertinent:

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2013/03/never-lift-or-carry-your-battery-terminals

Certainly in my experience (albeit mainly with car, 4WD, & truck batteries) there is probably no worse way to lift a battery than by the terminals! You might be lucky & THINK you've gotten away with it because things didn't spark or short out immediately, but usually the internal damage that is almost always caused will show up when you least need/want it to! :shocked:

I really do hope you don't find out the hard way, but I suspect (or is that expect?) that you just might.... :dontknow:
 
Last edited:
Admittedly, the following article is from Optima, but it is still pertinent:

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2013/03/never-lift-or-carry-your-battery-terminals

You're kidding!!! This is how not to lift a CAR battery as it's much heavier than our M/C batteries and the hooks I'm talking about go into the terminals and easily HELP to lift out. Not carry, not continue to handle, just enough to pull the battery out as it's very difficult. Jeeze!
 
Last edited:
Admittedly, the following article is from Optima, but it is arguably still pertinent:

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2013/03/never-lift-or-carry-your-battery-terminals

Certainly in my experience (albeit mainly with car, 4WD, & truck batteries) there is probably no worse way to lift a battery than by the terminals!
IIRC, about 60 years ago there were carrying straps made to carry 6 volt car batteries by the terminals. Were batteries just made much more rugged back then, or did nobody really recognize the potential for damage?


Edit: O'Reilly Auto Parts has a strap for carrying golf cart batteries by the terminals.
 
Last edited:
Idaho, I suspect that there might be some truth in your thought that batteries were just made that more rugged back then, but even so, those straps were only ever used for a short period before their failings became obvious! Check out the article - it was just the first on the list of many that came up on a simple search.... But in any case, they were very rarely used in manufacturing &/or by those who handled batteries a lot. In fact, the frequency & severity of injuries to the user &/or damage to the batteries was so bad that those straps were banned as being 'dangerously unsafe' by the automotive industry here in Aust (aka the Nanny State that legislates to protect the lowest common denominator! :rolleyes: )
 
You can easily fashion a "strap" for the new battery with some duct tape, avoiding terminals.
I had a hell of time trying to remove a battery from my Spyder. Maybe my hands just aren't strong enough.
Admittedly, I removed used, dead or dying batteries by the terminals for years. Didn't worry about the damage done, because it was going in the trash anyway.
YMMV

~Sandee~
 
You can easily fashion a "strap" for the new battery with some duct tape, avoiding terminals.
I had a hell of time trying to remove a battery from my Spyder. Maybe my hands just aren't strong enough.
Admittedly, I removed used, dead or dying batteries by the terminals for years. Didn't worry about the damage done, because it was going in the trash anyway.
YMMV

~Sandee~

Exactly, I didn't need the strap for the new one just to get the old one out. Good idea to use duck tape on new battery so when it needs to be replaced it will be easy to get it out.
 
Back
Top